Sounds like you have two separate problems.

Both are easily fixable and not very expensive as well.

#1 The stalling, is the common intake manifold gasket problem. The plastic intake manifolds crack and leak. They cost 40 bucks or so and you can replace them yourself in about 30-45 mins.

Some tell tale signs of the IMG leaking are a check engine light that will throw codes that say lean bank one, or lean bank two.

Add where you are located and you may have another Zu head that could help you out with the repairs.

#2 Having to wait to crank for a second is usually a sign that your fuel pressure regulator is not holding pressure and needs replaced.

Oh, and welcome to the Planet!

Joe

 

I had a 99 amigo 3.2 that was doing the same thing with the gas. I replaced the pressure regulator, the fuel pressure in the rail would drop down after I turned the key off. It turned out the pump was bad and would bleed back through the lines and the pump after I turned off the ignition, replaced the pump and never had anymore problems.

Scott

 

I had a 99 amigo 3.2 that was doing the same thing with the gas. I replaced the pressure regulator, the fuel pressure in the rail would drop down after I turned the key off. It turned out the pump was bad and would bleed back through the lines and the pump after I turned off the ignition, replaced the pump and never had anymore problems.

Scott

hmmm that's interesting. as i understand it, the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) on the isuzu 3.2 V6 engine builds and maintains pressure in the fuel rail by acting on the *return* line, i.e. only allowing fuel above and beyond the pressure needed in the fuel rail to travel back to the tank. so when it fails, it allows too much pressure/volume to exit the fuel rail before it reaches the proper amount, or allows excessive bleeddown.

i wonder how your fuel pump fit in that equation. anyone?
//bc

 

After replacing the fuel pressure regulator, which I thought was the problem, I hooked up the fuel pressure guage and was only getting 42psi. As soon as I turned of the ignition the pressure would drop to zero in about 3 seconds. After I replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pressure was 53psi and the pressure held after I turned of the ignition. So something was worn inside the pump.

Scott

 

After replacing the fuel pressure regulator, which I thought was the problem, I hooked up the fuel pressure guage and was only getting 42psi. As soon as I turned of the ignition the pressure would drop to zero in about 3 seconds. After I replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pressure was 53psi and the pressure held after I turned of the ignition. So something was worn inside the pump.

Scott

thanks...yeah, i'd be interested in what it could be if anyone knows.

and btw scott, your signature line says Amigo 2.2 L. is that a typo?"

//bc

 

I had 2 amigos, 2.2l and 3.2l I traded the 3.2l amigo for a 2002 rodeo sport with a 2.2l. The amigo we have with the 4cyl. was a spare vehicle for me and the girlfriend. She is driving it while she wants to restore her VW beetle. After driving the amigo with the 4cyl. and getting 26-28 mpg, I decided to trade in the amigo with the V6. I had a 1990 amigo 4wd 2.6l sold it and bought a montero sport (big mistake) if I would have found this forum sooner I would never have sold that old amigo. I will get another first gen. amigo someday.

Scott

 

The fuel pump has a check valve in it. If it goes south, it will not hold pressure. The other valve on the rail is pressure sensative and runs off the vacumm in the plenum.
GEG

 

Thanks a lot to all for your assistance!!

I am very happy with my Amigo, I had this car for 5 years and even though it could've had better gas mileage, it never gave me any trouble until this year.

53 K miles, year 2000, V6

I am in Chicago, do any of you know of any (quoting) "Zu heads that could help me out with the repairs.

I can do minor stuff, but replacing the intake manifold gasket may be beyond of what I can do. Either way, I can't drive it as it is.

BTW, this car overheated a couple of times 3 years ago, my dumb a** cousin hit a dumpster and the radiator leaked, I got it replaced but it overheated badly at least 3 times.

Anyway, I hope to be able to replace the following... will

Spark plugs,
I found ones that don't need gapping. Will they work>?
Bosch-Platinum+4 / Spark Plug
https://www.autozone.com/R,APP47621/veh ... Detail.htm

Oxygen Sensor will use anti-seize compound.

https://www.autozone.com/R,APP232467/ve ... Detail.htm

Intake Manifold Gasket not too sure if I can do this.

I found two types

https://www.autozone.com/R,APP689297/ve ... Detail.htm

and

https://www.autozone.com/R,APP688736/ve ... Detail.htm

I will leave for step two to replace the pressure regulator and the fuel pressure in the rail. I have to do research about this.

Oh, have you ever experienced this problem with the Amigos? The two bolts holding the exhaust pipe broke loose they totally rusted away. It makes a little noise but it didn't affect performance .

My good "friend" is falling apart. I wanted to drive it to Costa Rica ( from Chicago) at some point and leave it there with my family, but I don't know if it will make it in one piece.

Thanks a lot,

Frank

Sounds like you have two separate problems.

Both are easily fixable and not very expensive as well.

#1 The stalling, is the common intake manifold gasket problem. The

plastic intake manifolds crack and leak. They cost 40 bucks or so and you can replace them yourself in about 30-45 mins.

Some tell tale signs of the IMG leaking are a check engine light that will throw codes that say lean bank one, or lean bank two.

Add where you are located and you may have another Zu head that could help you out with the repairs.

#2 Having to wait to crank for a second is usually a sign that your fuel pressure regulator is not holding pressure and needs replaced.

Oh, and welcome to the Planet!

Joe

 

I'm not sure if anyone is up around Chitown. But if you were down in S. IL for any reason I could give you a hand.

A tip, don't get the aftermarket intake gaskets. Get Isuzu gaskets.

Send a PM to jlemond

He can get them for cheap.

Joe

 

O2 sensors are usually pre-lubricated with antiseize so you prob won't need to buy it.

 

Here is my report..... :shock: it may be useful for someone else..

Thanks for all the great advice, I have done plenty of reading and it is great to finally get a grasp on car repairs. This forum rocks.

I took the car to AutoZone or a CEL reading, it came out as predicted by bigpoppax2, it reads Bank 1 and 2 lean and also random mis-fire. I asked the guy if there was anything regarding the air intake manifold gasket problems and he said no. Can I rule this out?

I replaced my sparkplugs with pre-gapped NGK IRIDIUM IX and the engine ended up running worse. The guy at AutoZone said that NGK don't work well with American engines. Heck, I didn't know Isuzu has an American engine. Is this true? the car had originally Champion ones. If this is true I would like to get my money back from Murray's.

Do you suggest I replace any other cables?

Replacing the plugs was easy, there was only one at the back, on the driver's side that was slightly unconformable to replace, there are some hoses and a black plastic container. I loosen up the hoses and used a combination of extensions to get the proper grip.

Pics here.

[/b][/quote]

He said that because the car has been miss firing, it probably destroyed both oxygen sensors and that I should replace both of them.

They have different 02 sensors at the store, they only cost about $55 each, here are two pics, the first one looks like the one I have, what do you suggest? should I buy them somewhere else? will this work?

I really want to get my car repaired, I don't drive it that much but i don't want to destroy the engine.

Most likely 02 sensor, the connector looks similar.

other sensor in stock , the connector doesn't look the same.

Thank again Zo heads.

 

The second one is universal, meaning you cut and splice the wires...Don't do that.

The first one is correct. Now, that statement about NGKs not working in "american" engines sounds like a load of crap. They're spark plugs for crying out loud. Not engine sensors... Your Zu is not an "american" engine.

 

Well, I will have to check the sparkplugs, I probably did something wrong somewhere... I didn't use torque, but didn't over tight them either.
Are there any other cables I should had replaced? the contacts look good.

Regarding the guy at Autozone, he was trying to help, I guess. But that statement really confused me.

 

a little more on the subject..
THIS IS A COPY AND PASTE*******************

Isuzu Rodeo Trooper Amigo Rodeo Sport frequently asked qestions FAQs 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq15

15. How do I change the spark plugs and which plugs should I use?

This is for 3.2 and 3.5L

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. Check the link below to buy them for 6.80/plug (note the dealer charges about 17/plug)

Plugs for Direct Injection 3.5L engines: Denso Iridium SXU16HPR9

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.a ... 272&mfid=3

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbullet ... hlight=ion

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340). Also, it has been noted that some 00 trucks came with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking, due due to ion sense coils.

If you have 1998-1999, the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs.

It has been suggested that bosch platinum plugs commonly cause the CEL to come on in +98 Isuzu's.

To remove the coil over the plug, remove the two screws, then unplug the connector (two wires going in) then twist twist twist the coil (wrap fingers under the coil), and then twist and pull up. If you only tug up it may not come off the plug. The key to getting to the drivers side firewall plug is to use 2 short extensions, a U-joint, and the long extension. Then by feeding the short extensions into the plug hole one at a time followed by the u-joint and the long extension. -OR- If the have the all three drivers side coils off you can remove the rear drivers side plug using your socket and 2 3" extensions (no u-joints). Also, if you remove all three coil packs you can get to the rear plug with 2 three inch extension and NO u-joint. The easy way to get the plug back in the hole is to place a piece of rubber tube (or a clear flexible tube) onto the end of the plug and then put the assembly into the hole and gently screw it in to assure that you are not cross threading the plugs. Make sure you place some di-electrical grease on the top of the plug and some anti-seize on the treads.

Just passing along some info that some might not be aware of. Don't try to remove plugs in an Aluminum head while it's warm, the thermal expansion/contraction is different in both materials. The plug will be expanded longer than the head, you can pull threads out doing this. Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times".

If you have a stuck coil pack and twisting and pulling doesn't get the coil pack up try the following. Use a thin piece of string and tie it in a loop. Place the loop around the under the rubber part and then yank it up. I had to do this to the coil by the master cylinder. OR -- pop off the coil from the tube (it is two pieces) and then shoot some compressed air (~20lbs of pressure) down the tube and it should pop right off!

More idea's for removing a stuck coil tube: soak it down with WD40. There is suppose to be a special pliers at Autozone that is suppose to help get it out.

Photo:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/galle ... 500&page=1

http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

I stumbled on a real easy way to remove the coil pack tube if the coil pack comes off and the tube stays FIRMLY attached to the top of the plug. I had that happen where I struggle to get several off and finally just had one that would not release. I eventually tried hooking up my little compressor with one of those little pointed adapters attached. Put that down into the center hole of the plug and turned on the compressor...popped the tube right off the plug. Might save someone having to replace a torn coil pack assembly since I understand you can't just buy the tube.

Finally, the product

http://www.permatex.com/products/prodid ... m_no=09126

 

I had a friend put the iridum spark plugs in his rodeo. It ran like crap, disconnected the negative battery cable for a while, reconnected the cable, started it up and let the computer relearn. Rodeo drives great now.

Scott

 

Intake manifold gasket replacement- Is there a DIY guide ?

Hi guys,

My car was just diagnosed with air intake manifold gasket problem by the mechanic. It had stalling and was throwing lean bank one, or lean bank two. I replaced the 02's and nada..

Is there a walk through that will help me to replace it?

What should I watch out for?

What are the key aspects to be careful?

The estimate was $300 in Chicago, it doesn't sound too bad. One guy told me $1400! for the same job.

Thanks,

Frank

 

When you torque the intake manifold it is 13 ft.lbs. Isuzu lowered it from 18 ft.lbs. to keep the gasket from cracking and leading to another failure.

Scott

 

Well, the shop is only a few blocks away, I think i am going to give it a try.

It is risky but, I will be extra careful. I found this great guide!!

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic ... old+gasket

 

FIRST THING YOU DO IS CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER. THEY ONLY LAST
ABOUT 40K AND CAN CAUSE YOUR ENGINE TO DIE AND RUN LIKE CRUD.
$5 and 15 min to change. I could not believe the difference when I
replaced mine.

Also if your going to change your O2's make sure you spray them with
plenty of PB Blaster. Spray them for a couple days before and after you
start your truck. I did this and mine came out like nothing. This will save
time and your knuckles. Use the one with the connector. I also
suggest using a box wrench not a O2 socket.

I like outside Chicago and could offer a hand.

 

3.2l auto 4x4 - symptoms:
Ran fine since I bought it several moths ago.
Filled with gas and brought it home - wife didn't drive it for 4 or 5 days.
Got in yesterday and it was missing bad and she parked it in the driveway (bless her heart). I got it cranked a few times, but it sounded like it was gas-starved.
Changed the fuel filter - lots of crap in it....
Finally got the thing to idle long enough to check for vacuum leaks (IMG check among them) No luck.
It still misses when I hit the gas pedal, but once over 1600 or so rpm, sounds like the thing is fine.
Just got a P1340, cleared it and it hasn't come back (not sure if that is a clue or not - maybe just a symptom).
Any ideas, guys?
-Scott

 

Scott,

The following is a copy and paste from timrkopi. I found his PM so useful that I am pasting here for those in dire straits!

Thanks timrkopi, it really helped.

I found it extremely useful, because my EGR was stuck. I clean the living ### out of it with carb cleaner and then I poured a whole can into the suction hole of the EGR. I will post pics on how I did it later.

Anyway, I am still waiting for the new plugs. I got them for cheap from denso's website. 6.85 a piece.

Use the search by model, year and engine!

Here are mine

https://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=3264+&x=65&y=19

The Amigo is still misfiring, I just got codes P1340 AND P0300. For what I learned this are strictly related to the plugs. As soon as I get them I will replace them, reset the computer by unplugging it at least 30 minutes and will post results.

Good luck, here is the post.

From: timrkopi
To: Frank_1175
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:39 am
Subject: Re: Gasket replacement Quote message
Did you replace the O2's and Fuel Filter?? Did it change anything.

Doing the intake gaskets is acutally easy. Even though I would not
replace them unless your 100% sure they are bad. I replaced mine
because I replace my thermostat and the manifold needed to come off.
I did it as part of a 50K maint and I thought it might be the reason my
truck takes so long to warm up. It did nothing and I feel like a dip for
wasting my time

The only hard part was the fuel lines. There is a small bracket in back of the manifold that is hard to get to. I removed the hoses from the line
which I think was a mistake (time wise). Other than that it was just
hoses and 8 (I think) long bolts.

After rereading your posts it does not seem the gasket is your problem.
Running lean on sensors 1 and 2 is a indication of a fuel problem.

Do some very simple stuff first.

1) Take off and inspect every vaccume line going to the manifold. This
should not take too much time and is FREE. Usually the smaller diameter
lines are your problem because they split eaisley. I had a split one
going to the FPR.

2) Remove your EGR Valve and inspect and clean. Make sure it is not
stuck open. If your EGR Valve is stuck open then it is putting Exhaust
Gas in the intake during idle which will kill the engine. Again this is super
easy. Maybe some PB Blaster on the two bolts if they are stuck. Before
you put the EGR back on check that you have vacume on the intake port.
There are two holes under the EGR valve. One for exhaust one for intake.
Plug the exaust hole (warning hot), and plug the intake. Start the truck
and make sure the intake has vacume by removing the plug. Should
make a loud sucking noise and motor might die so be quick.

3) PCV valve. If stuck open this will kill your engine at idle and give you
bank 1 and 2 lean. Just replace it with an ISUZU PCV vlave. You can
get these at a HONDA dealer. Just ask for one for a 00' PASSPORT.

4) For the ION sensing ignition use only the ND KPR plugs. According to your pictures you have this. Remove the IRIDIUMS.

5) Fuel filter. #1 problem when your truck stumbles when you first start
it. After it gets really clogged your truck dies.

6) Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cheep and easy to replace but I think the
fuel filter is more prevalent problem.

7) Remove + battery and unplug MAS sensor. If the MAS is bad then
unpluging it will cause the computer to go to a generic setting. Might have
to start your truck twice to keep it running. The MAS is a sensitive device
that can be ruined if you leave the battery connected. If the MAS sensor
is bad then after starting the truck for the second time the truck should
run fine.

Cool Reset the computer by removing + battery cable for 30 min.

After all this then go to the gaskets. Reason being is that usually only one
side will go bad first. Just does not make sence not at least till 70K.
Usually when these start going bad the symptoms start slowly. For Eg
slightly eradic idle. Bizar highway crusing performance. Full throttle
acceleration is OK because low vacumme.

 

I cleaned and cleared the fuel filter - then finally got it to idle. I put some Lucas Fuel System Cleaner in the tank. She runs like a top now.
Thanks guys!

 

Fuel Filter.. the best $16 and 45 minutes you will ever spent! I am glad you Zoo is back on track.

 

Scott,

Anyway, I am still waiting for the new plugs. I got them for cheap from denso's website. 6.85 a piece.

.

Thoses are the wrong plugs but I think they will be OK. You want to use
the single platinum.

Also is your EGR pintle moving free? Should be super easy to push down.
Just checking.

 

Thanks for the pic man..

Gees, I am amazed how difficult is to get the right sparkplugs for this car. very interesting.

Anyway, as soon as I replace them, I will place results.

The pin moves freely now, I am going to pi ck up a new EGR gasket later today.