Helping a friend who purchased for his daughters first car. It was running fine when we got it. I originally looked at the vehicle with him and found no major mechanical problems. just some rust and maintenance type issues. Nothing a few saturdays and a couple hundo couldnt fix! We started with front brakes pads and rotors. and spark plugs and an oxygen sensor. They drove the car a few times. noticed the fuel level was all over the place and ive read this is a known issue for these vehicles. fast forward a few weeks they bring the vehicle by and say it just stalls sometime. I have the vehicle a few days and randomly test for the no start or stall issue drive it a few miles no issues. Finally one day it did stall on me but immediatly fires back up. only cel was for egr and o2 sensor. replaced both and now the rodeo wont start everytime. what i have noticed is when it wont start i dont get all the dash lights missing a few used to be able to cycle the key a few times and they would come on and the vehicle would start. Today though cycleing the key does nothing meaning it cranks but wont fire. missing those dash lights all other features work radio door chimes hazard turn signals flashers. I was hearing a clicking when cycling the key but am not now. checked all grounds replaced all relays no blown fuses inside or out. checked under the dash for wiring that might be shorted nothing. im at a complete loss. tried wiggling the shifter while cranking nothing. was reading about imobilizer today and seems when cranking the red light is lit up for the imobilizer not sure if that should be. they have another key for the vehicle i am going to try later. any help.. Issue used to be intermittend now it is preventing the car from starting.what else should i be looking at definitly think it is electrical related now. would the factory radio not being installed have anything to do with it? they swappedd it out before bringing it to me but it has run since the new after market radio was installed. help !!!
99 Rodeo start issues, cranks but wont fire.
soslow93
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I've been reading this old post because I have a similar problem. I replaced the fuel pump in my 1999 Trooper, the pump activates when the key is turned on, but no fuel is being pumped forward (nothing comes out of the in line fuel filter). The car will start if I put starting fluid in the intake, so I know I have spark. It almost seems like the pump is not priming itself. Also, my fuel gauge doesn't work since dropping the tank and putting in the new pump. Could these be related problems? Thanks guys.
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I can hear the pump when I turn the key, it runs for about 3 seconds and then shuts off. By the way folks, I found the problem. I had purchased a fuel pump assembly from FuelPumpHouse.com at a cost of $280 (I thought that was high, but couldn't find anyone anywhere). I had a good friend who teaches auto mechanics at a local college come over and take a look. After some diagnostics he determined the pump was wired wrong, he switched the hot and ground wires and it worked like a charm. I have messaged the pump house folks about this.
is there a way to bypass my relay just to attempt to get power to the pump? Im bout ready to list this thing for parts... also note the sending unit is not being energized. and am still missing several dash lights which i think is causing the fuel circuit to operate correctly. any help please
any help here guys, would there be any of the dash lights that complete the circuit for the fuel system ? aside from the fuel pump not getting power neither is the sending unit or the check engine light or power/winter driving lamps illuminated. also is there a way to jump the relay to energize the fuel pump fuse?
Did the replacement pump require wire splices? Some of the aftermarket pumps have been known to have the wrong directions for wire colors. I'm wondering if you originally had a bad pump and now have a new pump that's miswired. If you've already cut a hole above the tank, disconnect the harness to the pump and check for 12V at the F-1 connector during the prime cycle. You can use a light if you're meter is too slow.
Also, when you have no CEL come on can you still communicate with the PCM through the diagnostic connector?
Also, when you have no CEL come on can you still communicate with the PCM through the diagnostic connector?
If there's no fuel pump prime at key on but the pump works when the relay is jumped, then you'll have to look into that issue first. Check the PCM fuses and for loose connectors on the PCM itself. With your earlier symptoms and no CEL with the key-on bulb test, I would suspect that the PCM isn't getting power or is somehow defective. Can you connect to it with an OBD scanner and pull codes? If you had fuel pump prime at key on, but no further fuel pump activity or spark during cranking, I would look at the crank position sensor.
Here's how it works: When you first turn the key on, the PCM closes the fuel pump relay for 2-3 seconds to build pressure in the rail. When the engine is cranked, the PCM sees crank rotation through the crank position sensor and then energizes the fuel pump and ignition coils. The engine starts and runs.
Here's how it works: When you first turn the key on, the PCM closes the fuel pump relay for 2-3 seconds to build pressure in the rail. When the engine is cranked, the PCM sees crank rotation through the crank position sensor and then energizes the fuel pump and ignition coils. The engine starts and runs.
all fuses have been tested. the ecu is not energizing the fp relay thus the fp fuse is not energized while attempting to crank or has very week signal. I have to pull the dash and check connections. when it started the wont run and then the wont start issue it seemed to happen gradually almost like cold to hot conditions. meaning the wire would heat up and then loose connection once the insulation was warmed and malleable.
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