[remogw]

This is messy but will answer your question.
Disconnect both lines at the radiator. Have a helper turn the engine over briefly. One hose will squirt, ie TRANS OUTPUT. The other hose is your TRANS RETURN.

 

[Buster28]

The AFT discharge to the cooler is from the fitting on the right front of the transmission case.
The ATF return from the cooler goes to the pipe fitting on the right rear of the transmission case.
Click on image to expand.

 

[GSENN]

The AFT discharge to the cooler is from the fitting on the right front of the transmission case.
The ATF return from the cooler goes to the pipe fitting on the right rear of the transmission case.
Click on image to expand.

Buster!!

Thank you so much for that picture!! That answers the question, thank you!

One follow up question..

I see the 'Line Press Tap' way forward.. Based on some of the other posts in this forum, I thought the 'Band Apply' was the Line Press Tap.. In that my new rebuild has a bolt in that hole.. But than I looked at my old trans and saw no bolt.. As in it was never 'tapped'.. So That is when I knew it was not the 'Line Press Tap' but at that point I did not know where the Line Press Tap was until you posted your picture.. So thank you once again!

Now for the question

Can you recommend a heat sensor to put in that Line Press Tap? As in do you have a part number you can recommend? I that I really want to connect to the Line Press Tap instead of doing an inline one.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Buster28]

Your transmission has a built in ATF temp sensor, all you need is the display and the witch chant necessary to retrieve the data. Check this thread
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=83017

 

[GSENN]

Your transmission has a built in ATF temp sensor, all you need is the display and the witch chant necessary to retrieve the data. Check this thread
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=83017

That is pretty cool..

I have been wanting to get one of those ODB2 device and connect it to a little android uC and write an app to display it on a little screen.. Just so much 'other' neat info you can get from the ODB2 interface.

But, was really hoping to get a none ODB2/uC solution up and running ASAP for a trip I am planing over XMAS.. More of an old school hard wire solution's to an old fashioned gauge. That, and my wife is not very tech savvy, so getting her to use a blue tooth phone app is a no go. But I know I can 'teach' her how to read a gauge!

 

[SurferJoe]

Dear GSENN:

Do you know what you said here:

My Plan
Install the new tranny, install the new rad, install an inline cooler (with fan).. Now I want the cooler to reside on the return from the rad.. The idea being if the rad does not cool off the fluid enough, the inline cooler will.. Granted, on cold days the fluid maybe a little colder than it should be, but, AFAIK the real problem with the 4L30L is burning fluid, so, I will just have to live with the fluid maybe being a little colder than it should be.

The so-called 'rad' does NOT cool off the transmission fluid; it makes sure that it gets to a minimum fluid temperature.

What you call an "inline cooler" is, instead: a HEAT EXCHANGER and it is not a good idea to post-cool the fluid for whatever arcane reasoning you may have.

Put whatever hybrid 'cooler' in line BEFORE the exchanger and take some of the thermal load off your cooling system - that's all fine and dandy; but be sure to at least let the heat exchanger bring the ATF to a decent level before it returns to the transmission.

That's the way it's designed --- and frankly --- the original design was more than sufficient if you'd just leave it alone and let the engineers who bent over their slide rules creating this system for, Oh - I don't know ---- the past ninety years or so --- rest in their graves.

As a sidebar - the direction of flow - which I see has gone on as a worry for you for quite a few panels here so far, is not so important other than the idea that you need to actually install the 'cooler lines' now.

.

 

[GSENN]

Dear GSENN:
Do you know what you said here: .

Yes

The so-called 'rad' does NOT cool off the transmission fluid; it makes sure that it gets to a minimum fluid temperature.

That depends..

Case 1) If the tranny fluid is hotter than the rad water temp the heat will transfer from the tranny fluid to the rad water.
Cast 2) If the water is hotter than the tranny fluid the heat will transfer from the rad water to the tranny fluid.

What you call an "inline cooler" is, instead: a HEAT EXCHANGER

And what I call the rad cooler is, also a HEAT EXCHANGER..

Both will transfer heat in the direction from hot to cold..

Only difference in the two is one uses water and the other use air to 'exchange/transfer' the heat

and it is not a good idea to post-cool the fluid for whatever arcane reasoning you may have.

That is your opinion and your welcome to it

Put whatever hybrid 'cooler' in line BEFORE the exchanger and take some of the thermal load off your cooling system - that's all fine and dandy; but be sure to at least let the heat exchanger bring the ATF to a decent level before it returns to the transmission.

I plan on doing some testing, hence my questions about installing a heat sensor.. But as it stands, I am more concerned with the temp getting too hot than too cold

That's the way it's designed --- and frankly --- the original design was more than sufficient if you'd just leave it alone and let the engineers who bent over their slide rules creating this system for, Oh - I don't know ---- the past ninety years or so --- rest in their graves.

Would that be the same engineers that designed the oil return holes on the 3.5L pistons that causes them getting clogged up and results in oil consumption? Or the engineers that selected a tranny for the trooper that was a little too small for the job and results in so many people reporting burnt fluid problems.. See the thing is engineers are not perfect, I know I am one.. They are human and make mistakes too.

As a sidebar - the direction of flow - which I see has gone on as a worry for you for quite a few panels here so far, is not so important other than the idea that you need to actually install the 'cooler lines' now.

Worry?

Not really, just something one needs to know before installing the hoses.

 

[SurferJoe]

Well - that was 20 minutes that I'll never get back.

What a waste.

 

[GSENN]

Well - that was 20 minutes that I'll never get back.

What a waste.

Oh dear, I upset you..

Are you operating under the impression that I said you were wrong?

Is that why your upset?

If so, note that I never said you were wrong!

I simply pointed out your statement that a transmission air cooler (read heat exchanger) should go before the transmission radiator cooler (read heat exchanger) and not after is just your 'opinion' not to be confused with fact.

On that note..

It does not take much research time to realize there are basically 'two schools of thought' (read camps) with regards on how to install a transmission air cooler..

• Camp 1) Place it before the radiator cooler.[/*]

• Camp 2) Place it after the radiator cooler.[/*]

And which of the two camps you fall into tends to reflect the area you live in and/or the way you drive your vehicle..

For example

• Camp 1 types live in cold areas of the country, where the transmission fluid rarely if ever gets over high rating, so cold that the main concern is the fluid could in-fact get too cold.[/*]

• Camp 2 types live in warm to hot areas of the country, and/or drive their vehicles hard, as in tow trailers, where the transmission fluid can get up to and above the high rating, so hot that the main concern is the fluid getting too hot.[/*]

Still think your way is the only way and that I am just making all this stuff up about people other than me disagreeing with you?

Well know that there are many people in this world who recommend the air cooler be placed after the radiator cooler..

Many transmission, speed shops, trailer and towing companys recommend Case 2, you know people who's livelihood and reputations depend on what they say and do.

But don't take my word for it..

There is this new thing called google and you can use it to verify what I am claiming..

But based on your snarky closed minding reply(s) thus far..

I think it is safe to assume that you don't know how to use google search, so allow me to post some pictures below that prove what I am saying is true and debunk your 'idea' that your way is the only way to do it.

Enjoy

See.. not such arcane reasoning as you would have us believe..

And that is just a few pics out there..

Many major manufactures of transmission air coolers instructions show the air cooler to be installed after the rad cooler not before as you recommended.

Note I say many manufactures.. but could actually say most if not all in that I have yet to find one that even shows it being installed before the rad cooler let alone offering that as an option.

So, based on that, one could argue my reasoning, ie case 2 is as popular if not more so than your case 1..

Will even go as far as to say your method is the one that is in the minority and requires arcane reasoning..

In SUMMARY

Of the two, heat is the bigger problem..

As most ATF temp range charts will confirm, cooler is better! i.e.

Sadly, based on the range shown in such charts, many get the 'false' impression that temperatures below 175F are 'bad'!

Clearly you are one who falls into this category..

But in fact, ATF cooler than 175 is not a bad thing at all!!

As a mater of fact, based on the AMSOIL chart regular petroleum ATF is good to go between ~10F to ~175F, i.e.

http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-a ... de-atf.php​

So, knowing in advance the rad and air cooler combo can not cool the ATF to ambient (read outside) temperature, that means it would have to be alot colder than 10F to cause the ATF fluid to be cooled down to 10F.. In English, think North Dakota cold before you would have to worry about getting the ATF too cold.. Where as on the other hand, it does not even have to be a Arizona 110F day to over heat a tranny.. You can do that even on a cool 90F day going up hill with a loaded trooper, or towing something.

Hope that helps!

 

[Benton]

I think you want the fluid going through the radiator after the cooler not before. This is so that it can warm up the transmission from a cold start.

 

[GSENN]

I think you want the fluid going through the radiator after the cooler not before. This is so that it can warm up the transmission from a cold start.

Hey Benton

What you described is case 1,

Which as I showed in my post is the 'exception to the rule', where as 'the rule' (read normal) method is case 2

Where the air cooler is located after the radiator cooler as shown the numerous pictures I provided.

 

[PA_Robert]

So I'm starting my work list for "new" 1999 Rodeo 2WD, 125K miles, automatic.

Of course a tranny fluid change will happen along with all the other fluids, filters, coolant flush, brakes, and wheel bearing checks. I will get a baseline.

A tranny cooler is also on the list.

Any advice for an aux cooler "kit"?

I'm a big believer in synthetic oils and Archoil additives where I can. My other vehicle is a 2006 Ford F-350 Diesel Crew, 4x4. It has the infamous 6.0 diesel. Maintenance is number 1 priority with that pig. A head job is over $5K and an engine overhaul is $8K. Needless to say, proper maintenance, oil and additives are cheaper.

 

[itsmehb]

So, this post has been here since 2011, and I'm just getting around to reading it totally. Really a lot of useful information thrown out there for all to read. I've seen Gen. 2 auto's fail and those cars end up on craig's list almost daily. And I've seen hi mileage Auto's still running. I guess from that we can determine that correctly maintaining fluid level and temperature is most important to assure longevity. And driving habits surely matter. If you stress anything mechanical, repeatedly over time, you can be sure it will fail before one that has been treated with less zest. Just saying. As an ex aircraft mechanic for all my career, we were taught that engines had to be brought up to operating temp before stressing them (take-off) and whenever we took a jet out for an engine trim, when we arrived back at the gate we didn't shut that engine off until the egt was back at normal. I'm a total nut, as I even do that with my lawnmower.

 

[trooper4kids]

I do the same thing - even with lawn mowers too! Treat them gently until they are warm and let them cool off when shutting down ( I figure even 30 seconds at idle when I'm in a hurry is better than nothing)!

 

[rbral]

Lots of good info in this thread.

Hayden has a new transmission cooler with a built in thermal by-pass......
Hayden By-pass Cooler
It would appear that you could plumb this in on either side of the radiator.

This is what I plan on using.