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2001 Trooper Auto 4L30E to Manual AR5 w/TOD swap

75K views 142 replies 23 participants last post by  flydex28 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well after a couple of years of owning the Trooper the auto transmission has started to go. So instead of having it replaced at a cost of $4,000, (local shop), I decided to swap it to the AR5 attached to the TOD transfer case instead.

I want to make this thread a detailed guide of sorts with links to other threads, videos, and lots of photos so that anyone else that wants to do this swap can reference this and have some of the guesswork taken out or at least get some ideas. Hopefully, it will help someone with their swap. I will keep updating this thread until I'm completely done.

Here is a list of all the parts needed for the swap:
AR5 transmission
OEM clutch kit
OEM Flywheel bolts
OEM Pressure plate bolts
OEM Rear main seal
Clutch pedal assembly (99 Trooper)
OEM flywheel (used/resurfaced)
OEM brake/clutch pedal pads
OEM clutch hard line and softline
Center console
OEM master cylinder
OEM slave cylinder
2002 trooper Manual ECU
New rubber h/p fuel lines (rear lines are too short if using the Manual hard fuel lines)

Various Nuts & Bolts you may need to buy:
Transmission:.....one - 80mm (m12x1.25)
Transmission:.....three - 45mm (m12x1.75)
Dust Shields:......two - 45mm (6mm x 1.0) and one 6mm nut.
Slave Cylinder:...two - 30mm (10mm x 1.5)
Clutch Pedal Bracket:...two - 8mm x 1.25 nuts w/ washers

I also bought a few tools for the job as well. I picked up a clutch alignment tool, 17mm 0* offset wrench, clutch bleeder, and a floor jack because I was always having to borrow one from someone.
I was trying to shoot for around $1,500 dollars but I exceeded that a little bit...closer to $2,000. I can put my costs up later if anyone wants them.
I started working on it last week and have been taking pictures, so hopefully, I can get those posted if Photobucket wants to cooperate with me.

Helpful Links:
VX 5 Speed Swap
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... speed+swap
Has anyone put an AR5 in a 3.2 Trooper?
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=72724
John's Auto to Manual MUA5 Transmission Swap
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=49934
Hatfield's 2000 Trooper Build
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 1&start=50
Christmas in July! Zaphod's VX Manual Swap Thread
https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic. ... 7#p5449247
Cruise Contol after Swap
Cruise Control after swap
Car-Part.com
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Videos:
Servicing Quick Connect / Quick Disconnect Pull Type Clutches

Bleeding a clutch by blocking the slave cylinder
 
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#102 ·
If I remember correctly, I did not use the 1-2 switch connector (still not really sure what it is)...only the reverse light connector. Is the 4wd switch you are referring to the connector on the transfer case? I kept the TOD case from the auto so in my swap those just plugged right back in. I think i mention it on page 2. Sorry for the slow reply...had some unexpected stuff come up and not able to sign on as much.
 
#103 ·
Hey Chris, thanks for the info! There are three electrical connections on the main body of the AR5, one being the back-up switch. I guess I can leave the other two?
 
#104 ·
Trying to remember the third switch. On the passenger side there is the blue connector (reverse lights), the gray connector (1-2?)...and could you refresh my memory where the third one, The 4wd connector is. Do you have the matching connector already on your current harness? Are you doing the same swap as me with the ar5 and TOD case?
 
#105 ·
Yes AR5 with TOD. The third switch is on the top of the case in between the reverse and the 1-2 switch, it is slightly obscured by a little cover. This may just be a switch to light up the 4WD lamp on the manual instrument panel?
 
#106 ·
Hmm... is it in one of the pictures I took. I just don't remember a third switch right there. I would go out and look but I just had surgery and cant get to it. Any way you could post a pic if it's not in one of mine?
 
#107 ·
Well I got mine in and did not use the two other connections. Everything is working perfectly so far. Thanks for this very informative post!
 
#110 ·
Ignition and door lock keys?...No you won't change those. You will cable tie the ignition cable though. I will try to fix the rest of the pictures in this thread as soon as I can.
 
#113 ·
Hey no problem, So on car-part.com. if you search for a 2002 ECM it turns up no results but if you search for a 2001 it has a few. I would recommend calling the yards listed and having them verify it is an actual manual transmission ECM. Sometimes it is listed wrong. Look at both "from 03/01 MT" and "thru 02/01 MT". I think thats gonna be your best bet. Maybe a 2002 ECM will pop up eventually but the 2001 should work just fine.
 
#114 ·
I'm looking to a manual swap my 3.2L 1993 Trooper LS. Do you think most of what you described in your writeup will remain the same for my model year?
Thanks for taking the time to post this and also for staying active in the thread!
 
#115 ·
#116 ·
flydex28 said:
Hi there, I would think it should be similar but I believe your Trooper will have the MUA 5 speed transmission so there will be some differences. Here are a couple helpful links for you.
https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=87677

https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=49934

Also make sure you read thru this one regarding putting an ar5 transmission in a 3.2.
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=72724
Great, thanks. As for transfer cases, will the tcase from my automatic line up correctly with the MUA5? Or am I better off taking the one from the higher mileage MT donor trooper?
 
#119 ·
jc_in_az said:
Great thread!

Do you think a few things would've gone easier if you used a same year AR5 as your auto was (99 AR5 for 99 auto)? I pulled a ton of parts from my donor truck, including the ECU. Maybe it'll go in with fewer issues?
No I dont think it would have mattered that much at all. What year Troopers you are using?
 
#121 ·
jc_in_az said:
Both are 99.
That's the way to go. I wish I'd had a donor vehicle. That itself would have made it a lot easier. If I remember correctly the only real problem I ran into with different years was the brake pedal issue. The rest was either self inflicted or myself not knowing what I was doing. But overall it was fun and I learned a lot doing it.
 
#122 ·
flydex28 said:
So another weekend of not getting a lot done. I removed the auto pilot bushing that was in there. I used a slide hammer that my brother had and after a few minutes of hitting, it finally came out.
I'm hoping my weekend converting to manual will go a little better. I am stuck trying to get that auto pilot bushing off..

I just don't see how to get something behind it in order to pull it forward.
 
#123 ·
01rodeoroad said:
flydex28 said:
So another weekend of not getting a lot done. I removed the auto pilot bushing that was in there. I used a slide hammer that my brother had and after a few minutes of hitting, it finally came out.
I'm hoping my weekend converting to manual will go a little better. I am stuck trying to get that auto pilot bushing off..

I just don't see how to get something behind it in order to pull it forward.
I used a slide hammer on mine, it basically has hooks that slip behind the bushing and when you slide the hammer back it pulls the bushing out a little bit at a time. Another method people use is this one from ZaphodVX's swap thread in which you are basically using hydraulic pressure to push out the bearing. You can also pack the area behind the bearing with grease instead of bread. I first tried this method put couldn't get a good enough seal so I just used the slide hammer because I had one available. The one I used was from harbor freight.

ZaphodVX said:
First step was to pull the sleeve bearing. Of course I have no special puller, so instead I used an old trick - bread. Dip the compressible but 3-d bread in incompressible but runny water, and you have incompressible packing material I packed the void behind the sleeve bearing in the crank tail fairly full.

Then I grabbed a socket that barely fit the inside diameter of the bearing, flipped it backward, and stuck an extension into it backward. I put a baggie over it for a better seal, pushed it into the bread-packed orifice, and gave it whack. One tap and one whack and the bearing was halfway out. I added a bit more bread, and Voila!, bearing is out. Then I cleaned up the mushy bread mess. Maybe Vaseline would have been better, but still would have been a mess.
 
#124 ·
I used a slide hammer on mine, it basically has hooks that slip behind the bushing and when you slide the hammer back it pulls the bushing out a little bit at a time. Another method people use is this one from ZaphodVX's swap thread in which you are basically using hydraulic pressure to push out the bearing. You can also pack the area behind the bearing with grease instead of bread. I first tried this method put couldn't get a good enough seal so I just used the slide hammer because I had one available. The one I used was from harbor freight.
I’ve been collecting parts the last 6 months to do this swap. Have a 2001 and installing the mu5 with the TOD transfer case. Have all the peddles in with a new hydraulic master for the clutch. Now trying to figure out if I have the correct ECU. I pulled the one from behind the shifter on a 1999 Trooper. My 2001 does not have the connections in that location. The 1999 was sent to the crusher after I pulled my parts. Should I have grabbed the ecu from under the hood?
 
#126 ·
Thought I had all my parts. Ha! Any idea where to source the proper ECU for this? I spoke with a junk yard today and they wanted to know what time of year the Trooper was built and needed the numbers off the existing ECU. Guess at this point I need help figuring out what I’m looking for. I’m not good with the electrical stuff.
 
#128 ·
Sorry havent been on here much lately. I would double check that ECU in the link. It appears to gave the AUT CAL markings. I think it may ctually be an automatic ECU. I found my hard to find parts on car-part.com so definitely check them out. I think I saw a manual ECU on there. They come and go.
Good luck.
 
#130 ·
I did this swap and didn't change the ecu at first. The only wonky thing was the CEL light was on and the check trans would light up as the upshift light. Ran the same.

Make DARN SURE you get the bell housing bolts back in the correct holes or you could punch a hole in the cooling jacket upon reassembly.
 
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