Thanks, but the bolt spring is the opposite end of the section I'm looking for the studs for. Some of the s-10 manifolds are sold with the spring, so my guess is the Trooper 's short length of pipe between the manifold and part # 93982 is not included in the s-10? I also noticed that 4970 shows up for the 1990, but not the 1991 s-10, so maybe the trooper is a model year behind. I might have to pull the driver side's out to get the size, but trying to remove is how I broke the passenger side in the first place.
Thanks, but the bolt spring is the opposite end of the section I'm looking for the studs for. Some of the s-10 manifolds are sold with the spring, so my guess is the Trooper 's short length of pipe between the manifold and part # 93982 is not included in the s-10? I also noticed that 4970 shows up for the 1990, but not the 1991 s-10, so maybe the trooper is a model year behind. I might have to pull the driver side's out to get the size, but trying to remove is how I broke the passenger side in the first place.
I found a diagram I saved of the manual-trans Trooper exhaust system:
It shows everything up to the exhaust manifolds, excluding the bolt/spring assemblies. IIRC, all or most of the flanged connections downstream of the exhaust manifolds use thru-bolts and they're probably 8mm (or possibly 10mm). There may be some flanges with a captivated nut. But it's been a while since I've had mine apart. The S10 exhaust is definitely simpler than what they cobbled-up to stuff the GM engine into a Trooper.
BTW the exhaust "wye" is terribly restrictive, it necks down to less than 1/78" and is a huge bottleneck to the system. I plumbed in a dual-inlet cat with 2-1/2" single outlet. Went with 2-1/2" tailpipe along with a Dynomax Super-Turbo muffler. The stock downpipes are 2" so with a bit of fabrication, you're able to run them right into the cat. The cat has an O2 sensor bung, so the O2 sensor warms up quicker and runs warmer. Works great and it really "uncorked" the 3.4. A 2.8 couldn't use more than 2-1/4" tailpipe without losing a ton of low-end torque, though.
FYI, for stuck/rusted parts, a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF has been proven to be more effective than commercial penetrants like Kroil and PB Blaster, among others. Just watch out for the volatility, acetone is quite flammable. You might soak a joint in the mixture for several days and see if that helps.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Isuzu SUV Forum
895.9K posts
38.2K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Isuzu SUV owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!