'89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

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'89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby mattdk » Sat Jan 30, 2021 2:22 pm

Hello All,

I have a 1989 Trooper LS with the 2.8L (217K miles) and the manual trans.
When we first bought it:

Image

A little background:
My friends and I bought the trooper for $500 in July 2020 for the Rocky Mountain Rambler 500. Long story short, we had a ton of work to do and we spent a couple of months tinkering with it to get it running enough to take it on the 'rally race'. It made it nearly 300 miles through the race (more like a marathon) in one day and the engine 'seized' within a mile or two from the finish line. Despite the perfect opportunity to haul it to the junkyard, we fell in love with it and decided to giver a new heart.

After doing some research I found the Planet and all the helpful info on here that has led me to this point. I asked Ed Mc for his swap info to determine the feasibility of doing an engine swap ourselves, we have decided to storm ahead with the engine swap and figured now is a good time to start a swap thread.

So far we bought a 3.1L GM V6 out of a 1992 Pontiac Firebird (~140K miles). It's on an engine stand right now and we've performed a leak down test and no worse than ~15Psi.
Bought a throttle body injection unit off a 5.7L V8 to affix to the 2.8L Intake manifold (bore it out) then bolt to the 3.1L GM V6.

The first (of many) questions I have when I drill the starter holes on the 3.1L block will I be using the starter off the 3.1L or the 2.8L? Are they the same starter by chance?

Thanks in advance!!

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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby Ed Mc. » Sat Jan 30, 2021 6:03 pm

Hi, Matt, the Firebird/Camaro 3.1 and 3.4 engines have the same issue when swapping into a ZuZu with a GM 2.8 V6 - their starter is on the pssgr side, and the ZuZu 2.8 block has the starter on the driver's side (same configuration as a FWD GM 60-degree V6).

So, you're gonna drill the driver's side of the '92 Firebird 3.1, and use the Trooper 2.8 starter.

BTW did you see the info on the Rodney Dickman Fieros starter drilling "jig" kit? I'd highly recommend picking up this drilling jig, it'll save you tons of head-scratching, and guarantee the holes will be correct. I drilled mine by hand, with no jig or template, and believe me you really don't want to have to do that!!

http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.p ... cts_id=179

Save the starter shims from the old 2.8, you'll need to start with some sort of shim pack for starter mounting. Bolt up the ZuZu starter with shims, and pull the starter gear into the flywheel teeth (be sure to use the 2.8 flywheel!). Check to make sure the tooth engagement is just right; not too tight or too loose. Shim accordingly. It's far easier to do this with the engine out, than it is to be lying on your back under the rig, trying to get the shims in!
Chevy Small Block V8 shims are what's used here, and are available in shim packs at most auto parts stores, if you need them.

You'll want to pull the 3.1's timing cover and use the 2.8 cover instead. While you're in there, change out the timing set. At 140K+ miles, it's gonna be worn out and sloppy.

Also replace the timing damper. The damper rides inside the "vee" of the chain, and has rubber "slipper" blocks bonded to its metal frame. These rubber blocks will harden & degrade with heat, oil exposure, and age.

The blocks eventually will crack, and then delaminate from the frame, leaving the chain to ride metal-on-metal on the damper. Which leads to chain breakage! Exactly how I got my '90 LS after the timing chain busted. It's a cheap part and well-worth replacing.

Another tip, with the intake manifold removed, rotate the crankshaft and watch the action of the hydraulic lifters. Each lifter should be rotating as it follows the contour of the cam lobe. If the lifter doesn't rotate, it's SHOT. Usually that means the cam has problems as well, which will lead to excessive wear on the cam and a "flat" cam lobe. Not a good thing.

In that case, the Comp Cams "252" grind would be a great addition to your engine. Especially since you're already working on breathing improvements to the intake and TBI unit.

Here are links to the Full Kit, which includes cam, lifters, timing set, valve springs, retainers, locks, valve stem seals, etc. This cam does require performance springs due to the increased lift. You can buy the cam separately, and use early Z28 valve springs/retainers, but if you're refreshing the engine, the full kit is a good deal.

Here are some links:

https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-20 ... 4l-v6.html

A bit cheaper at Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k16-232-4

Cam alone: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-16-2 ... 3324426327

These roller-tipped rocker arms have a higher-than-stock rocker ratio for increased lift/duration and work well with the "252" cam:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-rp1414-12

Don't forget a new transmission input shaft pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft, if you have a manual transmission. Soak the Oilite bushing in engine oil overnight, and install with a suitably-sized socket or other installation tool. Lightly grease the input shaft of the trans with Lubriplate 101 or other lithium-based grease, prior to installation of the trans.

Be sure to replace the rear main seal, that's a trouble area which will require pulling the engine or trans to fix if it leaks later on.

There's a camshaft cover plate at the back of the block with a cork gasket that should be replaced. There are little metal rings that go over each screw, to keep from tightening the plate too hard onto the cork gasket. Watch out for those pesky buggers when you remove the cover, you don't want one falling into the cam hole. There is info in my swap package about this gasket, Read and Heed!

Check the freeze plugs for corrosion. There have been a few members here that had problems with leakers, and out goes the transmission again. Who needs that??

Use a 3.1 ZuZu Pickup clutch, the clutch for the 3.1 is larger in diameter and will better hold increases in power:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/isu ... h+kit,1993

The Exedy is OE-quality, top of the line. I did use a Sachs clutch on a "2.8-to-3.1 Stroker" build and it was a very nice clutch. My Nephew has the rig now and it's still running great, 16 years later. Check eBay for good deals on these.

Have your 2.8 flywheel surfaced if it's in good shape. You can't use the flywheel that came with the 3.1, different # of teeth among other issues.

The flywheel used on 3.1 ZuZu's is the same:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/isu ... wheel,5348

The Sachs flywheel is reasonably priced, and is marked with a "heart" which means it's a best-seller.

Be sure to put a drop of Loctite Blue on the threads of each cleaned & de-greased flywheel bolt, and torque to factory specs.

That's enough Information Overload for now; if you still have my swap info be sure to read the writeups I did on my 3.4 swap, it'll help...........ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !

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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby mattdk » Tue Jun 08, 2021 8:14 pm

Hello Ed, thank you very much for the info thus far, it has been extremely helpful.

Since my last post I've cleaned up and degreased the exterior of the engine (as best I could) and started disassembling the 3.1L on the engine stand. The Smog pump assembly, entire firebird fuel delivery system, valve covers, distributor, alternator and intake manifold have been removed. For being nearly 3 decades old the valve train looked pretty good IMO. Just a minor amount of rust on the push rods where they ride on the guides and maybe some carbon buildup, but other than that no major gunk anywhere in there! I rotated the crankshaft around and all the lifters twisted to some degree or another so that's good.

Image Image

I will be buying a complete engine gasket set, any recommendations on a brand or will one of the RockAuto engine gasket sets work just fine?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pon ... +set,10392

Also, I noticed that the intake manifold gasket goes on top of and below the pushrods, thus the pushrods would have to be removed in order install the new gasket. Besides making sure each pushrod goes back in the exact same location as before, are there any other things I should do before, during and when reinstalling the pushrods/rockers? Since these are not adjustable rockers I won't need to set the valve lash right? Just reassemble and torque down the rockers?

Ed,
I did end up buying the Rodney Dickman's starter relocation kit and will order the Cloyes 90373S timing set (with the damper) to replace the old 3.1L timing set. I plan on using the old 2.8L flywheel unless something is really wrong with it. I'm not sure I want to drop the extra money on a new camshaft or camshaft, although the appeal is definitely there. I do have a video of the engine running from the previous owner and it seems to to idling very smoothly. Like you said, there was a lot of info in your post already, so I'll order some of those other little odds and ends after I've already pulled the old engine.

It seems like the next step is to pull the old 2.8L engine out of the Trooper and start swapping 2.8L parts onto the 3.1L. Besides taking a bunch of pictures, carefully labeling every wire and bolt that comes off the 2.8L and draining the fluids, is there anything else I need to do with the 2.8L while its still in the Trooper? Or are there any tips, tricks or order of operations to pulling the engine out?

Thanks in advance!!

Matt
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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby Ed Mc. » Tue Jun 08, 2021 9:24 pm

Hi, Matt, you're making progress! There's a tool that you can use to pull the pushrods without disturbing the valve lash adjustment. It's a great time-saver and perfectly suited to what you're doing. Here's the info for the Lisle 48300 pushrod tool:

https://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/p ... _tool.html

Under $20 on eBay, this inexpensive tool will save you a lot of aggravation:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 00&_sop=15

Note: be sure to keep track of where each pushrod goes. They should be exactly the same, but you never know, there could be slight variances that might affect valve lash.

I have some good tips for engine removal in my 3.4 swap info files, if you didn't already get that from me, send me a private mssg with your email address listed, and I'll forward the files to you.

A couple of tips that you'll find in the swap files are as follows:

1) drop the front differential bracket to gain clearance between the oil pan and front x-member. If you don't, you'll destroy the clutch pressure plate fingers on the way out. Not a big deal, because you're replacing the clutch, but you do need the extra clearance on the way back together. (2) large bolts on each side, going straight up into the frame, through rubber mounts with an inner metal spacer, bonded to the rubber. On my 3.4 LS swap, they came right out. Another engine build, the bolts were rusted to the metal spools and the bolts broke loose, but would only turn so far because of the rubber. I had to crank air pressure up to 150 psi and rattle the bolts for about 20 minutes, applying heat too, before they broke free. What fun!

2) when the engine is up on the hoist/winch, disconnected from the frame mounts; take the metal brackets off the engine. This will allow you to lower the engine further, and you'll be able to better access the bellhousing bolts on top.

More good tips in the files that you'll want to see, even though you're not putting a Hi-Po 3.4 in there! It'll still run much better than a stock 2.8, especially with bored intake/larger TBI, and exhaust improvements.

Cheers..........ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !
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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby DSUZU » Tue Jun 08, 2021 9:51 pm

mattdk wrote: Since these are not adjustable rockers I won't need to set the valve lash right? Just reassemble and torque down the rockers

While Ed didn't specifically mention it (And he IS one of the GM V-6 experts), the valve train IS adjustable, so you don't want to just tighten those nuts (if you already loosened them). There are different techniques for adjusting them, I'll let Ed go through that. Enjoying seeing this thread. Dennis
1991 LS Trooper 2.8 V6 5 speed conversion (Sold)
1989 LS Spacecab 2.6 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs, Rodeo torsion bars, extended shackles, 2" lift, K&N air filter (drop in), dump bed conversion, burgundy interior change, warn brush bar. Engine is bored .020 oversize and upgraded to 1994 pistons, head and EFI system.
Previously owned: 1987 Trooper II LS, 1989 Trooper (parts only), 1994 Trooper 3.2 Auto, 1997 Rodeo 2.6 5 speed, 1993 shortbed pickup 2.3 (project - sold) 1992 Rodeo 4x4 LS (parts car, devoured by Spacecab needs) plus some 70 plus other non Isuzu vehicles over the years. 1994 Amigo devoured to provide head and EFI system.
Heavily damaged by engine compartment fire while driving on March 24th 2018, condemned by insurance company and taken on March 30th 2018 :cry:.

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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby Ed Mc. » Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:27 pm

Dennis has a good point. I just glossed over that part, I guess. You definitely would have to readjust valve lash if you disturb the rocker arm locknuts. The Lisle tool will keep you from having to do that.

BTW if you have already moved the locknuts, we can run through the procedure for getting the correct preload adjustment on the hydraulic lifters....ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !
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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby mattdk » Wed Jun 09, 2021 6:41 pm

Thanks guys! Wow I'm glad I asked about the pushrods, that would've been a pain to get readjusted correctly. Luckily for me I haven't taken off or loosened any of the rocker arm bolts, so I definitely plan on ordering that pushrod tool and hopefully not worrying about the valve lash.

Although, I did notice that a couple of the rocker arms did rock slightly to the sides (opposite of the designed direction of rocker if that makes since), is that a concern? It wasn't loose over the pushrod or valve spring (If I remember correctly). Is it possible that there is no tension on that rocker when the valve is closed and its free to rock side to side? (I will investigate further on Sunday when I pull the 2.8L)

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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby mattdk » Wed Jun 23, 2021 3:25 pm

Update on the pulling the 2.8L of the trooper: the radiator has been pulled out and almost everything has been disconnected from the engine except for a single wire on the passenger side going down to the engine block (can't see what it goes to) and the starter. We can't figure out how to pull the starter out, does it have to come out to pull the engine? If so, what's the best way to get to it? From the top, through the wheel well or from underneath? I noticed the oil filter is sort of in the way of the starter, haven't pulled that yet either. Then we just need to find and unbolt the front diff bracket bolts to drop it out of the way and the engine should be ready to pull out!

On an earlier note, does any one have recommendations/thoughts on any of the RockAuto Engine Gasket sets for the 3.1L? I see brands like ITM Engine Components and Apex that are currently in stock, are these brands ok?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pon ... +set,10392

Thanks in advance.

Matt
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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby Ed Mc. » Wed Jun 23, 2021 3:45 pm

mattdk wrote:Update on the pulling the 2.8L of the trooper: the radiator has been pulled out and almost everything has been disconnected from the engine except for a single wire on the passenger side going down to the engine block (can't see what it goes to) and the starter. We can't figure out how to pull the starter out, does it have to come out to pull the engine? If so, what's the best way to get to it? From the top, through the wheel well or from underneath? I noticed the oil filter is sort of in the way of the starter, haven't pulled that yet either. Then we just need to find and unbolt the front diff bracket bolts to drop it out of the way and the engine should be ready to pull out!

On an earlier note, does any one have recommendations/thoughts on any of the RockAuto Engine Gasket sets for the 3.1L? I see brands like ITM Engine Components and Apex that are currently in stock, are these brands ok?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pon ... +set,10392

Thanks in advance.

Matt


Here's a Felpro gasket set on eBay for $58 shipped, you won't find a better deal than that:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/382501034138

The starter is held on by 2 bolts, if you look straight up from underneath you'll see them. I'm assuming you have the front end (at least) on jackstands on a level surface. Don't forget to get under there and pull the metal "half-moon" shield at the bottom of the transmission.

If you have all the wiring disconnected from the engine, the harness just "peels" back and out of the way. A single wire from the O2 sensor does continue from the engine harness on the pssgr side, and runs all the way over the top of the transmission to the driver's side, to the O2 sensor.

If you've disconnected the entire engine harness, that wire stays with the harness and the engine comes out sans harness. If you leave the harness on the engine when pulling, you have to disconnect the wire at the O2 sensor and pull it out of its retaining clips.

The engine oil should have been drained and oil filter long gone at this phase of engine removal, so time to do that if the filter's in the way. You might get a bit of residual oil out of the engine, just stuff a shop rag or paper towels in the filter adapter to keep the mess down. If the oil filter adapter is in the way, unbolt it from the block and get it outta there. One big bolt in the middle, be sure to save it, you'll need it later!

The Big Bolts stick straight up into the frame (2 per side). So look along the brackets that hold the front diff and axles assy to the frame, and look along the frame; where they intersect is where the bolts are gonna be.

Good Luck..........ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !
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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby giusedtobe » Sat Jun 26, 2021 8:30 am

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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby DSUZU » Sat Jun 26, 2021 2:39 pm

FYI, if you haven't removed the bell housing to engine block bolts yet, I found the top two very hard to get to (on the 2.8 / 3.1). I found it much easier to unbolt the transmission mount bolts and raise the rear of the tranny which opens up the gap between the top back of the engine and the firewall (the heater core hoses and brass nipples were in the way). Dennis
1991 LS Trooper 2.8 V6 5 speed conversion (Sold)
1989 LS Spacecab 2.6 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs, Rodeo torsion bars, extended shackles, 2" lift, K&N air filter (drop in), dump bed conversion, burgundy interior change, warn brush bar. Engine is bored .020 oversize and upgraded to 1994 pistons, head and EFI system.
Previously owned: 1987 Trooper II LS, 1989 Trooper (parts only), 1994 Trooper 3.2 Auto, 1997 Rodeo 2.6 5 speed, 1993 shortbed pickup 2.3 (project - sold) 1992 Rodeo 4x4 LS (parts car, devoured by Spacecab needs) plus some 70 plus other non Isuzu vehicles over the years. 1994 Amigo devoured to provide head and EFI system.
Heavily damaged by engine compartment fire while driving on March 24th 2018, condemned by insurance company and taken on March 30th 2018 :cry:.

https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=64060
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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby mattdk » Tue Jul 13, 2021 8:09 pm

The engine is out!

It took several hours across 2 days, but we finally got it out! We needed every bit of the advice y'all left above.

Jacking up the rear of the transmission definitely helped access the top 4 bellhousing bolts along the firewall, thanks Dennis.

Dropping the front diff was definitely necessary, but was a major pain since one of the four bolts did not want to come out and was hard to access. The diff only seemed to drop about 1" which didn't seem like enough since the oil pan kept hitting the front diff before the pressure plate could completely clear the trans input shaft. As a result, we ended up taking the pressure plate and clutch off the engine in order to clear the input shaft of the trans.

Is there a way to drop the front differential more than just pulling the 4 bolts/nuts out? Is it possible that the front skid plate is holding it up?

Side note:
Turns out the old engine (2.8L) isn't seized ... the crank does smoothly rotate through a few full rotations with a breaker bar. My best guess is that the day it 'seized' when we turned off the engine that final time to let it cool off, the engine had already overheated several times that day and at that moment the starter blew up. There were a few times that day where the coolant reservoir was boiling/bubbling violently and the engine was overheating which leads me to believe the head gaskets blew. I digress, but when I pulled the starter motor this past weekend some pieces came out of the end and all of it started to make sense on what could've happened that fateful day.

The next steps are to remove the 2.8L intake manifold have it bored out for the bigger TBI, replace the timing chain set and keep the swapping the 2.8L parts onto the 3.1L.

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Re: '89 Trooper 3.1 Engine Swap

Postby Ed Mc. » Tue Jul 13, 2021 8:30 pm

WEEEEEE! Well that's the hardest part!

If you still had the back of the transmission jacked-up, that would of course make the top bellhousing bolts more accessible, but with the front of the transmission pushed-down, it might not have the clearance you need to get the trans input shaft to clear the clutch diaphragm fingers.

When I did mine, I didn't jack-up the rear of the trans or disconnect anything back there. I did drop the diff, and pull the motor mount brackets off the block, which did let the whole assembly drop down enough to get at the top bell housing bolts. Plus I went at some of them from underneath with long 1/2" extensions and an air wrench (once I had the bolts busted-loose enough to turn with the wrench).

Was also able to get the engine back in without jacking-up the rear. In fact I had a jack under the front of the trans to keep it from dropping too much, as the engine was pulled away from the trans. So maybe try a combination of all that to see what works the best when going back in.

I don't recall having the skid plate in place, either, when doing the swap. So that's a good thing to try, it comes off easily enough.

Sounds like you may have a decent 2.8 core, that's a good thing! Easily rebuildable to 3.1 specs, or with a .030" or .040" overbore, approx 3.2L in displacement. You could build a pretty nice performance engine out of that. For your next Trooper!! :twisted:

And no starter relocation required, it's already there!

Press on Smartly, the fun part commences!............ed :mrgreen:
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
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