I know there are alot of people looking for some kind of guide for this so i'll give it a shot.
First of all...if you do use this, I take no responsibility or liability if anything were to go wrong. Attempt this at your own risk!
The reason I decided to install an additional cooler is because I already burnt out my first transmission and I want to make this new one last as long as possible,
hopefully the cooler will help with that.
The first thing I had to do was shop. I researched different brands of aftermarket coolers available.
The two brands that seemed to be the most popular were "B&M" and "Hayden".
I decided to go with the Hayden brand. I got a Hayden 1677 Transaver Plus cooler on eBay for about $40.
The sellers name is jmurf1954 and he has 100% feedback.
The cooler kit came with everything needed to install. The hose was a little too "flexible" for my liking so I decided to get stiffer hose.
I bought about 10' worth, the kit only came with 4'.
Items needed
Transmission cooler
11/32" hose (8' should be enough)
4 hose clamps
2-3quarts of Dexron III ATF
Tools needed
Phillips screw driver
Long flat tip screw driver
12mm,14mm & 19mm socket
Wrench
Pliers
Pump (to top off the ATF)
Knife, blade, hacksaw (something to cut the hose)
Oil drain pan
Optional
Nuts, bolts, spring lock washers, flat washers (to mount the cooler)
Plastic tie straps
Pipe insulating foam
Scissors
Snippers
Lets get started.... first thing we need to do is remove the grille.
Only clips and one phillips head screw hold the grille down.
Red = flat tip screw driver needed
Yellow = long flat tip screw driver needed
Blue = phillips screw driver needed
Remove the phillips screw
Pry the clips upward until it "releases"...you should hear a "click"
Remove the grille
Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold down the radiator mounting support brackets.
This will give you a little clearance behind the a/c conderser unit so you can bolt, or plastic strap the cooler to the condenser.
Find a place to mount the cooler. I chose to bolt it right in front of the a/c condenser.
The condenser already has holes that you can use to bolt the cooler right up against it.
The bolts that were included with my kit were too short, so I had to purchase some longer ones.
You could use the plastic straps included with the kit to strap it to the condenser. Some people strongly advise against doing this as it could cut through the fins
and piping of the condenser unit.
I decided to use one in the top right corner just to help keep it in place.
I used two bolts, two spring lock washers, and a flat washer to mount the cooler to the bottom of the condenser.
Once you have it mounted you have to choose how to run the hoses without kinking the hose or having it rub against something sharp.
Then you have to choose if you want to run it "before" the radiator,"after" the radiator, or "standalone".
I put mine after the radiator as per JLEMONDS hose routing directions.
Some people will say that it needs to be "before" the radiator. But for where I live I think its better to be "in series" after the radiator.
I chose to run the top "input" hose towards the left side of the engine compartment and into the output of the radiator.
I ran the bottom "output" hose to the right of the engine compartment and straight into the transmission return line.
(showing how the hose is routed behind the bumper cover.)
Input hose
Output hose
While securing the hoses, I decided to use some foam pipe insulation on places where I would tie strap the hose or places that may rub against the hose.
The aux cooler input hose goes here. Output of the radiator.
First you have to remove the shield in the bottom of the truck, four 14mm bolts, loosen the two closest to the front and completely remove the two towards the rear.
Use your pliers to remove the spring hose clamps. Twist and pull the hose off the radiator output line fitting with your hands.
Use your oil pan to catch any ATF, my fluid was still new and red.
Remove this shield
(bottom of the radiator)
The aux cooler output hose goes on the same line, but on the side that connects straight to the tansmission.
Theres no need to touch the line to the far left, unless you were installing the cooler "before" the radiator.
If your going to install it before, then simply replace the far left hose and dont touch the hose in the middle.
In my case since the far left hose "input" for the radiator was shot, I replaced it with new hose.
Red = From transmission aux cooler "output", then straight into transmission return line.
Yellow = From radiator cooler/warmer, then straight into aux cooler "input".
Green = From transmission output, then straight into the radiator cooler/warmer.
Before you put the hoses on the fittings, make sure you have the new hose clamps on the hose.
Also make sure you lube up the fittings so that the hose can slide right on.
Once the hose is on the fittings, screw the hose clamps on make sure not to overtighten it.
Time to top off the transmission fluid and check for leaks!
I wasnt able to get pictures of the proceedure, due to bathing in ATF.
Start the truck up. Run the shifter through all the gears. You need to wait about 3 minutes for the fluid to warm up properly so you can check the level.
While waiting for 3 minutes, I checked all the hoses for leaks, none were found.
You should have your drain pan, 19mm socket, ATF and pump nearby.
After 3 minutes(truck still running), remove the transmission pan 19mm "fill plug", be careful the exhaust is hot.
Prepare to shower in ATF.. start pumping fluid in the fill hole until it starts pouring back out.
Each time I pumped I think I got more fluid on the ground then in the trans, until I got the pumps hose seated in a better position.
It took about 2 quarts until the fluid started rushing out...just wait for it to start dribbling out.
Once it does put the fill plug back on and torque it to specs.
I installed a new copper sealing washer on the fill plug while I was down there.
Check your hoses for leaks...if none are found then congratulations you just installed your cooler succesfully.
Turn the truck off, and lets get that grille back on.
The easyest way to put it back on is to remove the clips from the vehicle completely.
Once you have the clips in your hand, just push it back into the grille one by one.
Snap the grille back in place, it was that easy. Dont forget the phillips screw.
Put the shield back on the bottom of the truck and your done.
Since I had ATF all over the floor I flushed it all out, and since I had the hose out I gave the truck a nice washing
I made sure to make the hose clamps face a position where I can easily tighten them if needed.
I hope this helps someone!
First of all...if you do use this, I take no responsibility or liability if anything were to go wrong. Attempt this at your own risk!
The reason I decided to install an additional cooler is because I already burnt out my first transmission and I want to make this new one last as long as possible,
hopefully the cooler will help with that.
The first thing I had to do was shop. I researched different brands of aftermarket coolers available.
The two brands that seemed to be the most popular were "B&M" and "Hayden".
I decided to go with the Hayden brand. I got a Hayden 1677 Transaver Plus cooler on eBay for about $40.
The sellers name is jmurf1954 and he has 100% feedback.
The cooler kit came with everything needed to install. The hose was a little too "flexible" for my liking so I decided to get stiffer hose.
I bought about 10' worth, the kit only came with 4'.
Items needed
Transmission cooler
11/32" hose (8' should be enough)
4 hose clamps
2-3quarts of Dexron III ATF
Tools needed
Phillips screw driver
Long flat tip screw driver
12mm,14mm & 19mm socket
Wrench
Pliers
Pump (to top off the ATF)
Knife, blade, hacksaw (something to cut the hose)
Oil drain pan
Optional
Nuts, bolts, spring lock washers, flat washers (to mount the cooler)
Plastic tie straps
Pipe insulating foam
Scissors
Snippers
Lets get started.... first thing we need to do is remove the grille.
Only clips and one phillips head screw hold the grille down.
Red = flat tip screw driver needed
Yellow = long flat tip screw driver needed
Blue = phillips screw driver needed
Remove the phillips screw
Pry the clips upward until it "releases"...you should hear a "click"
Remove the grille
Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold down the radiator mounting support brackets.
This will give you a little clearance behind the a/c conderser unit so you can bolt, or plastic strap the cooler to the condenser.
Find a place to mount the cooler. I chose to bolt it right in front of the a/c condenser.
The condenser already has holes that you can use to bolt the cooler right up against it.
The bolts that were included with my kit were too short, so I had to purchase some longer ones.
You could use the plastic straps included with the kit to strap it to the condenser. Some people strongly advise against doing this as it could cut through the fins
and piping of the condenser unit.
I decided to use one in the top right corner just to help keep it in place.
I used two bolts, two spring lock washers, and a flat washer to mount the cooler to the bottom of the condenser.
Once you have it mounted you have to choose how to run the hoses without kinking the hose or having it rub against something sharp.
Then you have to choose if you want to run it "before" the radiator,"after" the radiator, or "standalone".
I put mine after the radiator as per JLEMONDS hose routing directions.
Some people will say that it needs to be "before" the radiator. But for where I live I think its better to be "in series" after the radiator.
I chose to run the top "input" hose towards the left side of the engine compartment and into the output of the radiator.
I ran the bottom "output" hose to the right of the engine compartment and straight into the transmission return line.
(showing how the hose is routed behind the bumper cover.)
Input hose
Output hose
While securing the hoses, I decided to use some foam pipe insulation on places where I would tie strap the hose or places that may rub against the hose.
The aux cooler input hose goes here. Output of the radiator.
First you have to remove the shield in the bottom of the truck, four 14mm bolts, loosen the two closest to the front and completely remove the two towards the rear.
Use your pliers to remove the spring hose clamps. Twist and pull the hose off the radiator output line fitting with your hands.
Use your oil pan to catch any ATF, my fluid was still new and red.
Remove this shield
(bottom of the radiator)
The aux cooler output hose goes on the same line, but on the side that connects straight to the tansmission.
Theres no need to touch the line to the far left, unless you were installing the cooler "before" the radiator.
If your going to install it before, then simply replace the far left hose and dont touch the hose in the middle.
In my case since the far left hose "input" for the radiator was shot, I replaced it with new hose.
Red = From transmission aux cooler "output", then straight into transmission return line.
Yellow = From radiator cooler/warmer, then straight into aux cooler "input".
Green = From transmission output, then straight into the radiator cooler/warmer.
Before you put the hoses on the fittings, make sure you have the new hose clamps on the hose.
Also make sure you lube up the fittings so that the hose can slide right on.
Once the hose is on the fittings, screw the hose clamps on make sure not to overtighten it.
Time to top off the transmission fluid and check for leaks!
I wasnt able to get pictures of the proceedure, due to bathing in ATF.
Start the truck up. Run the shifter through all the gears. You need to wait about 3 minutes for the fluid to warm up properly so you can check the level.
While waiting for 3 minutes, I checked all the hoses for leaks, none were found.
You should have your drain pan, 19mm socket, ATF and pump nearby.
After 3 minutes(truck still running), remove the transmission pan 19mm "fill plug", be careful the exhaust is hot.
Prepare to shower in ATF.. start pumping fluid in the fill hole until it starts pouring back out.
Each time I pumped I think I got more fluid on the ground then in the trans, until I got the pumps hose seated in a better position.
It took about 2 quarts until the fluid started rushing out...just wait for it to start dribbling out.
Once it does put the fill plug back on and torque it to specs.
I installed a new copper sealing washer on the fill plug while I was down there.
Check your hoses for leaks...if none are found then congratulations you just installed your cooler succesfully.
Turn the truck off, and lets get that grille back on.
The easyest way to put it back on is to remove the clips from the vehicle completely.
Once you have the clips in your hand, just push it back into the grille one by one.
Snap the grille back in place, it was that easy. Dont forget the phillips screw.
Put the shield back on the bottom of the truck and your done.
Since I had ATF all over the floor I flushed it all out, and since I had the hose out I gave the truck a nice washing
I made sure to make the hose clamps face a position where I can easily tighten them if needed.
I hope this helps someone!