Isuzu SUV Forum banner

Automatic transmission cooler install *with pics* '01 Rodeo

80K views 64 replies 24 participants last post by  Richey 
#1 ·
I know there are alot of people looking for some kind of guide for this so i'll give it a shot.
First of all...if you do use this, I take no responsibility or liability if anything were to go wrong. Attempt this at your own risk!

The reason I decided to install an additional cooler is because I already burnt out my first transmission and I want to make this new one last as long as possible,
hopefully the cooler will help with that.

The first thing I had to do was shop. I researched different brands of aftermarket coolers available.
The two brands that seemed to be the most popular were "B&M" and "Hayden".
I decided to go with the Hayden brand. I got a Hayden 1677 Transaver Plus cooler on eBay for about $40.
The sellers name is jmurf1954 and he has 100% feedback.


The cooler kit came with everything needed to install. The hose was a little too "flexible" for my liking so I decided to get stiffer hose.
I bought about 10' worth, the kit only came with 4'.


Items needed
Transmission cooler
11/32" hose (8' should be enough)
4 hose clamps
2-3quarts of Dexron III ATF

Tools needed
Phillips screw driver
Long flat tip screw driver
12mm,14mm & 19mm socket
Wrench
Pliers
Pump (to top off the ATF)
Knife, blade, hacksaw (something to cut the hose)
Oil drain pan

Optional
Nuts, bolts, spring lock washers, flat washers (to mount the cooler)
Plastic tie straps
Pipe insulating foam
Scissors
Snippers

Lets get started.... first thing we need to do is remove the grille.
Only clips and one phillips head screw hold the grille down.

Red = flat tip screw driver needed
Yellow = long flat tip screw driver needed
Blue = phillips screw driver needed

Remove the phillips screw


Pry the clips upward until it "releases"...you should hear a "click"

Remove the grille

Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold down the radiator mounting support brackets.

This will give you a little clearance behind the a/c conderser unit so you can bolt, or plastic strap the cooler to the condenser.

Find a place to mount the cooler. I chose to bolt it right in front of the a/c condenser.
The condenser already has holes that you can use to bolt the cooler right up against it.
The bolts that were included with my kit were too short, so I had to purchase some longer ones.
You could use the plastic straps included with the kit to strap it to the condenser. Some people strongly advise against doing this as it could cut through the fins
and piping of the condenser unit.
I decided to use one in the top right corner just to help keep it in place.
I used two bolts, two spring lock washers, and a flat washer to mount the cooler to the bottom of the condenser.


Once you have it mounted you have to choose how to run the hoses without kinking the hose or having it rub against something sharp.
Then you have to choose if you want to run it "before" the radiator,"after" the radiator, or "standalone".
I put mine after the radiator as per JLEMONDS hose routing directions.
Some people will say that it needs to be "before" the radiator. But for where I live I think its better to be "in series" after the radiator.

I chose to run the top "input" hose towards the left side of the engine compartment and into the output of the radiator.
I ran the bottom "output" hose to the right of the engine compartment and straight into the transmission return line.
(showing how the hose is routed behind the bumper cover.)


Input hose


Output hose


While securing the hoses, I decided to use some foam pipe insulation on places where I would tie strap the hose or places that may rub against the hose.


The aux cooler input hose goes here. Output of the radiator.
First you have to remove the shield in the bottom of the truck, four 14mm bolts, loosen the two closest to the front and completely remove the two towards the rear.
Use your pliers to remove the spring hose clamps. Twist and pull the hose off the radiator output line fitting with your hands.
Use your oil pan to catch any ATF, my fluid was still new and red.

Remove this shield


(bottom of the radiator)

The aux cooler output hose goes on the same line, but on the side that connects straight to the tansmission.
Theres no need to touch the line to the far left, unless you were installing the cooler "before" the radiator.
If your going to install it before, then simply replace the far left hose and dont touch the hose in the middle.
In my case since the far left hose "input" for the radiator was shot, I replaced it with new hose.

Red = From transmission aux cooler "output", then straight into transmission return line.
Yellow = From radiator cooler/warmer, then straight into aux cooler "input".
Green = From transmission output, then straight into the radiator cooler/warmer.

Before you put the hoses on the fittings, make sure you have the new hose clamps on the hose.
Also make sure you lube up the fittings so that the hose can slide right on.
Once the hose is on the fittings, screw the hose clamps on make sure not to overtighten it.

Time to top off the transmission fluid and check for leaks!
I wasnt able to get pictures of the proceedure, due to bathing in ATF.

Start the truck up. Run the shifter through all the gears. You need to wait about 3 minutes for the fluid to warm up properly so you can check the level.
While waiting for 3 minutes, I checked all the hoses for leaks, none were found.
You should have your drain pan, 19mm socket, ATF and pump nearby.
After 3 minutes(truck still running), remove the transmission pan 19mm "fill plug", be careful the exhaust is hot.
Prepare to shower in ATF.. start pumping fluid in the fill hole until it starts pouring back out.
Each time I pumped I think I got more fluid on the ground then in the trans, until I got the pumps hose seated in a better position.
It took about 2 quarts until the fluid started rushing out...just wait for it to start dribbling out.
Once it does put the fill plug back on and torque it to specs.
I installed a new copper sealing washer on the fill plug while I was down there.
Check your hoses for leaks...if none are found then congratulations you just installed your cooler succesfully.

Turn the truck off, and lets get that grille back on.
The easyest way to put it back on is to remove the clips from the vehicle completely.


Once you have the clips in your hand, just push it back into the grille one by one.

Snap the grille back in place, it was that easy. Dont forget the phillips screw.

Put the shield back on the bottom of the truck and your done.


Since I had ATF all over the floor I flushed it all out, and since I had the hose out I gave the truck a nice washing :D




I made sure to make the hose clamps face a position where I can easily tighten them if needed.

I hope this helps someone!
 
See less See more
19
#53 ·
I think there's some confusion about OD qualification (for it's application via a green board condition) and fluid temp.

OD is not the same as TCC lock up - they are totally different in function and time- qualification.

Although they are both controlled by road speed, coolant temp, throttle position and other requirements, they have different reasons for engaging or not.

TCC can be called in as a defensive device to lower fluid temps under abusive conditions - and that's one of the great values to TCC - but it is not to be confused with OD.

OD is IN the transmission - Lock Up is IN the converter in most situations - there are some exceptions like a few Ford units - but we are talkin' Isuzu here.

Typically, TCC is the last 'shift-like' bump you can feel after OD is in and established, although TCC is also qualified in 2, 3 and OD under legacy conditions in the ECM/TCM.

Some times however, TCC happens very close to simultaneously with either OD or DIRECT application/shifts.

SIDEBAR: IF TCC was IN during a shift, it would be very harsh and extremely firm - attesting to the fact that the other friction packs do not slip or slide when they apply. If they DO slip - it only happens a few times until they smoke and fail.

So - in a nutshell ---

1st is a REDUCTION gear
2nd is a REDUCTION gear
3rd is a DIRECT gear
OD is what it says: an OVERDRIVE gear or a MULTIPLICATION gear.

REVERSE OTOH - may be part of LOW and REVERSE reduction gears and can be an entirely different ratio than either 1st/LOW or 2nd/INTERMEDIATE Gear.There are exceptions.

[llist]This situation does NOT apply in many Chrysler units as they are always in either Underdrive or Overdrive and have no Direct drive condition. [/list]
TCC/Lock Up is a clutch that applies to lock the torque converter into a solid, contiguous connection between the engine crankshaft and the input drum of the transmission. It is usually inside the torque converter but there are some exceptions.

The clutch that holds the crankshaft to the input shaft of the transmission acts much the same way in function as a manual clutch does in a 4 or 5 speed manual shift transmission. This way there is no fluid absorbing rotational energy from the engine, acting as a 'torque converter' and creating heat and wasting fuel and keeping engine RPM higher that is needed.

With a TCC system, the torque converter can have a very high stall speed - good for acceleration and low numerical number/ratio differentials.

The closer you get to 1:1 in the differential, the more efficient it is, although mechanical disadvantage occurs and vehicle acceleration suffers.

This is great for fuel economy as the losses attributable to the drag of gear reduction is cut significantly through heat (again) and energy losses in high ratio differentials

Since that is not a good way to get acceleration to satisfy needs such as off-road and rapid acceleration, the torque converter is designed to 'slip', if you will - to allow the engine to get to it's best power band and give some decent numbers and seat-of-the-pants satisfaction.

Then once to speed, the TCC is applied, negating slip and energy losses.

Overcooling should not keep OD or TCC from happening, although it will keep the chemical plasticizers in the fluid from working correctly to keep the seals supple and working for a long time.
 
#55 ·
Having the aux cooler before the standard heat exchange unit in the radiator is a good idea if you have hot enough seasons or work the unit hard and need to keep the extra thermal load off the engine's cooling system.

Actually - having a cooler take out some heat first and then having the heat exchanger add some to normal temps, also takes some therms out of the radiator and actually helps cool the engine.

Remember that both the engine and the transmission like to be above the minimum heat established for them and going lower is to kill the engine for wear and condensation problems, and the transmission for not enough heat to make the additives in the ATF to protect the unit.

FWIW:
Transmissions like 180-200ºF and engines like it a little hotter - up to 230ºF for longevity.

Most engine thermostats open at 190ºF now, and some of the newest ones are set to fully open at 225-230ºF. These are the thermally-modulated, newer style units.
 
#57 ·
mick4x4 said:
When fitting an oil temp gage is it better to fit it in the line the oil comes out of the box or the return line from the cooler to the box.

Which one will give the correct operating temp of the box
This is quoting from SurferJoe...

"Put the temp sender unit in the pressure tap (line pressure test) to get a real heat value and that way you get to see what the trans has to work with!

This is a sample on a Ford Trans I did:


This way you can tell if the trans is getting hot, not when it's too late.

MOST transmissions have their pressure tap on the driver's side of the case, close to the front of the case and right behind the bellhousing.

In Australia/NZ and some UK-type places, the driver sits on the right (oops, I edited that after I noticed I had made it backwards) side of the vehicle as you are sitting in the front seat of the vehicle"

nickya, says that the line-pressure rest plug is onthe left side of the 4l30e, just above the overdrive pan. And a little tricky to get to.

I believe the plug is also self grounding... so no need for more wires.
 
#58 ·
I have an external cooler in addition to the heat exchanger in the radiator. I tow a lot in baja when it is hot and I had been having big problems with my tranny after slow towing in a lot of heat.
Hopefully this will address the issue.
I also installed the Torque app on my Android and bought the bluetooth OBD II sender unit. It, or I haven't figured it out yet, doesn't read the tranny temp even though it has the capability but it does read coolant temp which hovers around 190F at idle and drops to around 170F underway, especially on the freeway. And today was 90ish here in San Diego so I am happy with that.
 
#60 ·
mick4x4, are you talking about the rubber hoses or the fittings on the cooler itself? My hoses are still fine.
I threw away the thin and flimsy hose that came with my Hayden kit before I even started installing it.

I got a some good cooler hose from Jegs. I also used some Goodyear hose and its holding up just fine.
 
#62 ·
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was thinking about how hot my transmission gets.

Does it do anything to add a cooler to a manual tranny? I noticed all the write-ups in this thread are auto tranny

I would assume that any tranny would operate better at a lower temperature, but maybe it's only a problem for autos...

The reason I ask is because I'm going to put 33's on when summer rolls around, and I don't wanna blow my tranny (aisin ar-5)

Input?
 
#63 ·
streetersam said:
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was thinking about how hot my transmission gets.

Does it do anything to add a cooler to a manual tranny? I noticed all the write-ups in this thread are auto tranny

I would assume that any tranny would operate better at a lower temperature, but maybe it's only a problem for autos...

The reason I ask is because I'm going to put 33's on when summer rolls around, and I don't wanna blow my tranny (aisin ar-5)

Input?
I am not too sure about manual trans. but it sure do help with auto ones.

I think your 5 speed would do just fine without cooler, some people do 5 speed with 35" are just fine. clutch is more important to watch for I think? i donno.... haven't driven too much manuals yet...
 
#64 ·
Found this post looking for details on how to remove the radiator grill on my Passport. Thanks to OP, I have exact details! (Original Poster)

As far as a transmission cooler for a manual, I've never heard of one. Autos need them to keep the internal clutches and friction bands from failing due to excessive heat soak at high temperatures. You have a lot of small seals and o-rings in those that do not like being cooked in oil. LOL!

Your manual has a clutch in the bellhousing and unless it is slipping, once in gear does not generate extra heat and neither should your transmission internals.

Autos are a completely different animal and need to be protected from operating outside design temperature tolerances.

A stick 427 Shelby cobra two seater has a cooler in the front, but it is an oil cooler for the engine, not for the manual. That may be what you are thinking of.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top