Dorodango Dodge Dakota

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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby gwana66 » Mon Nov 19, 2018 9:02 am

radare wrote:I hadn't even thought about an alignment issue with the PS pulley. Good note and idea. I'm going to check out that Dayco kit and see how much it is. Ever done it with a straight edge?


I haven't tried with a straight edge. I know the Dayco tool attaches to the pulley ribs so they are aligned. With the thickness of the balancer, it might work to clamp a straight edge to that and measure to the first rib of the pulleys. I'm betting outside-to-outside don't line up just due to thickness differences in the pulleys themselves.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby paulevans76 » Mon Nov 19, 2018 11:12 am

gwana66 wrote:This project is spectacular. I'd have set fire to it on day 2.


My thoughts exactly! Talk about a restoration. Killer work so far :D
Scratch n Dent special 1991 Trooper S
3.4 V6 - Holley TBI, CompCams 252H, 1.6:1 roller rockers, +1mm DOHC pistons, MSD ignition, custom tune, "Ed Mc Special" 2.5" exhaust
MUA5 w/ 3.07's & fixed yoke
SAS - Waggy F D44 - 5.38's, RCV's, OX locker; Rodeo R 44 - Detroit, truss
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Mon Nov 19, 2018 1:07 pm

gwana66 wrote:
radare wrote:I hadn't even thought about an alignment issue with the PS pulley. Good note and idea. I'm going to check out that Dayco kit and see how much it is. Ever done it with a straight edge?


I haven't tried with a straight edge. I know the Dayco tool attaches to the pulley ribs so they are aligned. With the thickness of the balancer, it might work to clamp a straight edge to that and measure to the first rib of the pulleys. I'm betting outside-to-outside don't line up just due to thickness differences in the pulleys themselves.


I watched some videos on it that Dayco made. They recommended using a straight edge connected to the crank pulley and then measuring from it to the second belt groove on the pulley. Then comparing that measurement to the same groove on the rest of the pulleys. I've gotta pull the fan back out to install the new radiator and transmission cooler lines and when it's out of the way, I'll have the room to do so. I suspect you are spot on with the power steering pulley being out of line with the other pulleys.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Mon Nov 19, 2018 1:08 pm

Progress since the last update:

Made the wiring harness for the overhead compass/computer. I used pins taken from the old dash harness I had and was able to plug them into all of the correct connectors under the dash using the correct wire colors. I didn't have to splice or hack any of the circuits. Pretty happy with myself, there:

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Installed the compass. Everything works and its communicating with the CCD bus correctly.

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Recovered the headliner. Had a couple of mistakes but ultimately happy with how it turned out:

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Installed the passenger airbag and dash cover:

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And mostly installed the carpet. The carpet sucked, BTW. I don't know what floor pan they used to press it, but it had a bunch of extra contours and the fit around the tunnel by the back of the shifter was miserable. I ended up covering the entire floorpan with 1/2" jute and reshaping portions of the carpet with a heat gun. Parts of the tunnel have 1" thick padding to get the carpet to lay correctly. I'll bet I pulled that carpet in and out 50 times and it took about 12 hours to do. But I'm happy with the results, mostly.

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I don't have a picture of it but I also finished fixing the radio and installed it with new Infinity speakers. It sounds really good.

Currently now working on the C-pillar trim so I can get it and the rear seats installed.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Fri Nov 30, 2018 12:28 pm

gwana66 wrote:Did I see that you had to press the pulley on the new PS pump? Those pressed pulleys, especially with ribbed belts, need to be absolutely 100% parallel or they will squeak. Dayco makes a test kit that's basically a laser that attaches to the crank pulley with a magnet. I think a laser level could be rigged to do the same. If you want to isolate the belt, sprinkle some baby powder on the backside of it while it's running. If the sound goes away it's the belt. If not, you're looking at a bearing or something else. Hose the powder off when you're done.


You were spot-on, Gwana66. I used a straight edge and measured from it to the rib on the second groove of the crank pulley. I then kept that straight edge against the crank pulley and made the same measurement on the power steering pulley. I'd over-pressed the power steering pulley about 2.5mm. I pulled the pulley back out 2.5mm to line up with the crank pulley. When I installed the power steering pulley, I pushed it until it was flush with the shaft, however, there is a chamfer on the inside of the pulley and after I realigned it, the inside edge of the chamfer was actually flush with the end of the shaft. If I'd thought about it when pressing the pulley on, I'd have put it in this spot to begin with.

I am going to put the belt back on today and see if the noise is gone but I suspect it will be. Thank you for the idea!!
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:59 pm

Since last update:

Bosch fuel pump installed and tank put back in. New fuel pump dropped 8 psi overnight whereas the original Walbro pump would drop to zero after a few seconds of turning off the ignition. Truck starts just like it should, now.

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New catalytic converter section and o2 sensors installed. Original section was cracked at the y-pipe and I was unable to repair it enough to keep it from sucking air.

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Power steering pulley was over-pressed 2.5mm. Pulled it back out to where it needed to be and installed a new belt. No more chirping!

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Replaced the radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat and transmission cooler lines. Trans lines were a major PITA to install.

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Hoping to get the interior back together, minus the seats, today.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:36 pm

With the exception of the seats, the interior is back together. I tore apart the seats and ran the foam and covers through the washing machine with OdoBan. The seat cushions smell so heavily of OdoBan, though, that I don't think I can use them. When I get back from MN, I'll hit my local Joanne's fabric and see if they have a good-density foam to use for making new cushions.

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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Mon Dec 03, 2018 4:11 pm

The steering box on this truck has enough freeplay that I can move the steering wheel back and forth about an inch, maybe inch and a half. I followed the FSM procedure to adjust the box backlash but couldn't remove this freeplay so I'm guessing the box is worn out. Any more adjustment and the steering gets a memory. So I went ahead and bought a reman'd one as well as new Pitman and idler arms. When those get here, I'll swap the box and recon the steering bar and hopefully remove that freeplay. The steering shaft that connects the wheel to the box is tight and has no freeplay so I'm leaving it where it is. This will all probably happen on Friday, weather permitting. More to come there. Stay tuned.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby paulevans76 » Tue Dec 04, 2018 11:14 am

Seems like this truck will be in better shape than when it left the factory by the time you're done with it.
Scratch n Dent special 1991 Trooper S
3.4 V6 - Holley TBI, CompCams 252H, 1.6:1 roller rockers, +1mm DOHC pistons, MSD ignition, custom tune, "Ed Mc Special" 2.5" exhaust
MUA5 w/ 3.07's & fixed yoke
SAS - Waggy F D44 - 5.38's, RCV's, OX locker; Rodeo R 44 - Detroit, truss
Front Y-link radius arms, coils; Rear SOA, OME leaves, anti-wrap bar
35x12.50/17 General Grabber X3's on 17x9 Interco Birddogs
Trail armor and Warn XD9000
The White Whale - a temporary daily driver 1991 Trooper - 2.8 V6, MUA5 - stocker resto (sold)
1994 Samurai - 1.3 FI - OME suspension, 31's, 6.5:1 tcase, 5k milemarker SxS winch, more to come!
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby gwana66 » Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:52 pm

I'm glad you got the pulley sorted!
98 Amigo, 2.2 5sp 4x4, 4.77 gears and factory LSD.
Power nothing - No power windows, no power locks, no power engine. ;)
Even the hubs are manual now.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby N law » Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:19 am

If you have the seats apart, put seat heaters in! I bought this kit off of Amazon about 4 years ago. Aside from getting the pads under the upholstery, it was as simple as hooking up a red and a black wire, along with running the switch. Since you already have everything off, it would be money will spent. 4 years later and they are still working in both my wife's old car and my truck. I have a spare kit on hand in case I ever need to go into another vehicle's seats. You can read my review down below in the amazon listing or on a thread on here. Link to both.

https://www.amazon.com/Tech-Era-Carbon- ... merReviews

https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic. ... er#p714101

Really awesome work, by the way. I've been amazed at the level of detail you've gone through to bring this truck back. I've also bought some Tesa tape because of your thread. It's awesome!
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Thu Dec 06, 2018 9:36 pm

Alright, so I put the back seat back together and its in the truck now. I was able to wash the foam and covers in the washing machine but had to make a new back section using plywood and new foam from the fabric store. It turned out pretty good.

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I also installed a set of Infinity Kappa speakers. I did this a while ago but thought I'd mention it. They sound great! The stock head unit and amp in this truck are both Infinity and these seem to work well with that system. I opted not to install the tweeters for the rear speakers, only for the door speakers, so I have a spare set of tweeters should I change my mind later.


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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Sat Dec 08, 2018 1:50 pm

Getting there. Only have the driver seat installed but I can take it on the road. Rear end is making a horrible shutter when starting from a stop or when turning. Gotta investigate.

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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Sun Dec 09, 2018 12:13 pm

Alright guys, I need advice:

I have a stutter/chatter from the rear end, notable when turning or starting from a stop. I pulled the diff cover last night and took a look. First observation is that the oil is brown, looking like it has some rust in it. Second observation is that the top side of the housing is rusty. I suspect moisture got in there and either the vent is clogged, or simply from sitting, it surface rusted. There are some patches of surface rust on the pinion gear teeth. Third observation, and this is the most important, is that the spider gears are badly damaged showing heavy surface spalling and some missing teeth. I do not know what caused the third.

I need the truck on the road for a Thursday tire appointment and a Friday emission test. I have two options. Consider both temporary measures until I can fix it correctly in the spring.

1. Buy a replacement set of spider gears and replace those. Clean out the housing as well as I can and then put them in. Given the amount of surface rust and metal particles in the axle, I suspect the new gears will wear quickly. Cost to do this is $110 and the time to swap the gears.

2. Buy a junk yard axle and swap the entire axle. I found an axle in Fort Collins for $300. It's from a high mileage truck. I have no guarantee that it isn't in a similar condition though the yard offers a year warranty on it. This would likely resolve the rust issue but I don't know how long the axle would last and I would have to hope the rear brakes on the new axle are in good shape. Total cost to do this would probably be somewhere around $350 as I'd want to replace the rear brake flex line at the same time.

Here are photos of the spiders. Note the heavy surface spalling and the missing teeth. Also note the amount of rust inside the house. Advice?

Image

Image
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Sun Dec 09, 2018 1:09 pm

Actually, guys, after lookin' some more, I think what happened is that either it was badly abused by previous owners, which is highly likely given the condition of the truck, or some of the heavy rust flaked off, went through the spider causing it to chip which then resulted in further damage. Either way, I think its trashed so I've decided to replace the axle.

I found the same truck in a bone yard in Fort Collins that has the same 8.25 axle with 3.55 ratio and made an offer on it. $250, complete with drums. I also bought a new flexible brake hose (since the original is likely quite nasty) and some 1" axle blocks. The 2" blocks jacked the ass-end up too high and I didn't want to crank the t-bars more than they are right now. So if I gotta pull the axle, I might as well install shorter blocks.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:53 pm

Update since last post:

I did buy the junkyard axle. When they pulled it, they found metal pieces in the pan. They looked like pieces of the TracLok limited slip so I offered them $100 for the axle. It took a full day to clean the rust off of the axle and then paint it. After that, I tore apart the diff and replaced the clutch pack and retainers. The diff was in otherwise good shape.

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I had a set of Firestone Destination A/T tires installed and the front end aligned.

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Then I went for the emission and sadly, I did not pass. The truck failed for high carbon monoxide (CO). Limit here in Colorado is 15 grams/mile and it emitted 16.1.

When I drove to the emission place, the check engine light came on reporting P0300, P0303 and P0306. Essentially, misfiring in cylinder 3 and 6. I turned around, came home and replaced the coil and swapped in the original distributor cap and rotors. It was running better and I was against a deadline so I took it back and had it tested.

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Some research yields that likely culprits of high CO include bad O2 sensors, map sensor or throttle position sensor. I went out and drove with my laptop connected and recorded those sensors

Here are some observations:

1. The oxygen sensors are functioning correctly. I would expect the downstream sensor to draw a pretty flat line near 0.1v. It isn't. This could indicate catalytic converter performance or it could indicate that the conditions are insufficient for the cat to function correctly. More on that later.

2. The MAP and throttle position sensors seem to be working correctly, however, there are anomolous readings from the MAP sensor, spikes during constant throttle sections. These are frequent so I suspect some MAP failure.

3. The throttle position sensor seems to function correctly. I don't see anything odd or unusual in the data it's returned.

4. The short term fuel trim is where I think it should be but the long term trim inches up to 10 or more percent. This tells me the computer is trying to correct for a lean condition.

I pulled the plugs on the #3 and #6 cylinders and they are white. They look lean to me. Here's what I suspect: The truck sat for 10 years. It's likely that the fuel injectors are at least somewhat gummed up. I suspect the injectors in the #3 and #6 cylinders are not supplying the same amount of fuel as the other cylinders. Since this truck has only a single O2 sensor, it corrects all 8 cylinders based on that one reading. If it reads a lean condition, it has no control other than to increase the injector pulse width on all 8 cylinders. This results in six of the cylinders running rich to correct poor flow in the other two.

Now this is just a theory. My next action would be to connect an injector tester and fuel pressure gauge and record the pressure drop as I fire each injector. I don't have an injector tester and for about the same cost as one, I can get remanufactured injectors that are well reviewed. I've ordered all 8 and will swap them when they arrive.

Since the MAP readings are suspect, I've ordered a replacement MAP from Delphi.

When these injectors and MAP arrive, I will install them and take another couple of drives with the laptop connected to the OBD2 to see what impact they've had.
Last edited by radare on Mon Dec 17, 2018 4:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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My other passion: My Yamaha XJ600 and XJ600 Scrambler
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby N law » Mon Dec 17, 2018 2:10 pm

I purchased this kit a while ago for cleaning injectors. The couple times I have use it, it helped clean out the gunk. For the price, it was worth having in the toolbox. It is basically a plug that fits the injector and lets you clip it on a battery to activate it . The other part is a custom nozzle for carb cleaner. It lets you pull of the standard spray nozzle and fit this one on. The o-ring fits tightly inside of it. It requires some coordination, but it works.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Car-Fuel-I ... :rk:1:pf:0
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby gwana66 » Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:34 pm

The downstream O2 can still show rich at WOT and lean after the throttle snaps closed. It should be fairly flat otherwise. If it's charting a graph similar to the upstream, then the cat is not working. Ideally, the downstream should not read .1V all the time, that would be a lean condition and the cat needs fuel to burn. In a perfect world you're looking for .45 which is stoich, but .6 - .7 isn't uncommon after the cat at idle, with leaner values usually at cruise. You don't want it pegged on either end of the scale.
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Sat Dec 22, 2018 3:33 am

I figured I'd start troubleshooting the P0300 random cylinder misfire code first and see if that lead to a solution for the failed emissions test.

First thing I did was to rule out mechanical problems. I checked compression on all 8 cylinders. They were very consistent and right around 140 psi each, cold and dry. I calculated a total spread of only 3% across the cylinders.

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Next thing I did was to check the injectors. I used a fuel injector tester and a pressure gauge to test each injector by pulsing the injector for a set amount of time and noting the pressure drop. I used the long pulse mode (mode 3 on this tester) which gives about a half second pulse. Just like compression, each cylinder was pretty consistent with a drop of about 15 psig when I cycled the injector. The variance between cylinders here was only 2 psig across all 8 so, I don't think there is a problem with a stuck or clogged injector. Spray pattern could be bad but flow wise, they all match.

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After that, the next thing I decided to do was to remove the spark plug wires and check out the distributor. I pulled all 8 wires and the distributor cap out of the way and took a look at the distributor. The shaft is tight and doesn't move with any slop. The distributor is tight in the engine and doesn't move either. I pulled the distributor pickup sensor out and noticed that the wiring had been crimped between the pickup sensor and the distributor body. It looks like it'd been that way for a while. Upon closer inspection, I found that the wires had rubbed through and were resting on the distributor body. This would ground out the cam sensor signal. It doesn't appear to have exposed the 5V reference though. Maybe that is why it didn't return a trouble code? Anyhow, this might be my problem with respect to the misfire. Instead of trying to solder these wires back together and make a repair, I went ahead and just bought a replacement pickup sensor.

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You can see the wires poking out of the insulation where the arrow points.

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Here's an excerpt from the manual. Based on this, the signal should be either 5V or 0V. I assume that it is periodically grounding, returning a 0V signal. Am I reading that right?

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While removing the plug wires, I disconnected the purge solenoid and the evaporative hoses so I could give myself more room to work. I noticed that the purge solenoid was installed upside down. Some previous owner put it in upside down and then hooked the vacuum lines to it backward. That might be a problem. When disconnecting the wiring, I found that it had been previously repaired and that one of the crimp connectors wasn't installed well. The wire fell out of it. So that might be part of my problem, too. I'm not sure if an improperly connected purge solenoid will result in a vacuum leak but it might be part of the emission failure. That coupled with the extra hydrocarbons from the engine misfire.

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Anyway, I did then continue on with previous plans. I removed the throttle body and fuel rail and cleaned up both. I installed a new MAP sensor on the throttle body and cleaned the IAC motor. I found that the tabs on the throttle position sensor were damaged so I replaced it with a new one.

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I installed a new set of injectors (remanufactured) in the rail. The o-rings on the original injectors were quite nasty, both crudded up and hardened.

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Mostly back together. I want to paint the driver side valve cover and replace its gasket, tomorrow, and then I can mostly button things back up. It will take a while for the new distributor pickup sensor to get here so I won't be able to take it out and see if all this work helped, until sometime around Christmas. But hey, that damaged sensor gives me hope that I may actually resolve this problem.

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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby DSUZU » Sat Dec 22, 2018 8:01 pm

Sounds like a textbook case of what I call "piggyback problems". The bare wires could be apart of the problem, likewise the canister solenoid wiring and flipped hoses. The "hardened" injector o rings could have been allowing a minor vacuum leak at one or more injectors and causing a lean misfire situation. Any or all could be contributing factors. Glad you posted, this has become on of my favored threads and I think about you / it every time I see a Dodge pickup. Keep up the good work. Dennis
1991 LS Trooper 2.8 V6 5 speed conversion (Sold)
1989 LS Spacecab 2.6 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs, Rodeo torsion bars, extended shackles, 2" lift, K&N air filter (drop in), dump bed conversion, burgundy interior change, warn brush bar. Engine is bored .020 oversize and upgraded to 1994 pistons, head and EFI system.
Previously owned: 1987 Trooper II LS, 1989 Trooper (parts only), 1994 Trooper 3.2 Auto, 1997 Rodeo 2.6 5 speed, 1993 shortbed pickup 2.3 (project - sold) 1992 Rodeo 4x4 LS (parts car, devoured by Spacecab needs) plus some 70 plus other non Isuzu vehicles over the years. 1994 Amigo devoured to provide head and EFI system.
Heavily damaged by engine compartment fire while driving on March 24th 2018, condemned by insurance company and taken on March 30th 2018 :cry:.

https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=64060
City of St Petersburg (Fl) Fleet Maintenance 8/23/83 - 12/4/2018 (Retired). Started new job 6/4/2019. Was retired, now just tired.

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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Mon Dec 24, 2018 12:18 am

Here we go. Today I pulled off the driver side valve cover and painted it. The rocker arms are clean and the inside of the engine looks to be in good shape. No oil buildup. No sludge. No surprises. That almost sounds like a Nike ad.

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After I put the VC back on, I cleaned up and painted the brackets for the evap purge solenoid and installed it. When I repaired its damaged wires, I gave them a bit of extra length so that I'd have plenty of room to position the solenoid. The original lines were rock hard on the ends so I replaced them with some silicone tubing I had in the workshop. Once I get the replacement pickup sensor, I'll be able to run this and see if it fixed it.

Image
'94 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD, 3.2L V6. 156k miles (Sold); '01 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD, 3.2L V6, 108k miles (Sold).
Currently restoring an '01 Rodeo Sport V6
My other passion: My Yamaha XJ600 and XJ600 Scrambler
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby itsmehb » Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:24 am

Got caught up on all your most recent posts. Your posts are so well documented with pictures, it's fun to visit. Keep up the good work. What are you using as a camera?
1990 Amigo, 2.3 5 speed (sold)
1991 Pick up (long gone)
2000 Amigo, 2.2 5 speed(sold)
1985 Trooper 1.9 4 speed (sent back to KS)
1989 Trooper RS 2.6 5 spd. Red

We get too soon old and too late smart!

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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:54 am

itsmehb wrote:Got caught up on all your most recent posts. Your posts are so well documented with pictures, it's fun to visit. Keep up the good work. What are you using as a camera?


Thanks, itsmehb! I'm just using my iPhone for photos. I actually have a whole lot more on my Lumix but I can't find where I left it. If I do, I'm going to go back and add some more. I have some good ones of the rear axle rebuild that I'd like to share.
'94 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD, 3.2L V6. 156k miles (Sold); '01 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD, 3.2L V6, 108k miles (Sold).
Currently restoring an '01 Rodeo Sport V6
My other passion: My Yamaha XJ600 and XJ600 Scrambler
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby radare » Wed Jan 02, 2019 12:28 pm

Latest update:

I replaced the distributor pickup sensor and took the truck out for a drive. It was running well and so I took it through the emission test place in Longmont. And surprisingly, it passed.

Image

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I then headed over to the DMV and got license plates for it. Total cost to register it, $89. That's cheaper than my trailer.

A few days later, on cold startup, the misfire returned. It's now most prevalent when the engine is cold and goes away when warm. So I didn't get it fixed.

I bought an Autel MaxiDAS DS808 for Christmas and holy-hell I love this thing. It's able to access all of the control modules on the truck and perform all testing that the service manual specifies for the DRB3. I have a couple of screen shots showing how it works but they are on my other camera. I did connect it to the Isuzu and it doesn't work well with it. They only include the software for the Chinese version of the Isuzu. I did connect it to my Subaru, though, and it works amazingly well, giving me access to everything including VIN and key fob programming. Depends on the functionality of the PCM.

Using it, I was able to set the fuel synchronization. The Dakota 5.2L uses the distributor to synchronize the fuel injector timing with the ignition timing. Rotating the distributor no longer sets timing, since the PCM controls timing advance, but doing so sets the fuel synchronization. I suspected that it might be off since the engine was replaced at some time and likely not by a dealer.

I checked the fuel sync and found it at 15 degrees. Factory spec is 0 degrees +- 2. I loosened the distributor and was able to get it in the correct position.

Unfortunately, the misfire is still present. I'm going to check the wiring to the ignition coil and injectors this week. It's probable that I missed some rodent chew damage in the wiring somewhere. More to come.
'94 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD, 3.2L V6. 156k miles (Sold); '01 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD, 3.2L V6, 108k miles (Sold).
Currently restoring an '01 Rodeo Sport V6
My other passion: My Yamaha XJ600 and XJ600 Scrambler
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Re: Dorodango Dodge Dakota

Postby N law » Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:12 pm

One of my buddies at our shop does commercial sales for the Autozone and he carries around the jumbo Autel. They retail for $2,500-3,000. Every time anyone has an issue, we ask him to hook it up and let us know what it says. One guy got so good with last years model that he was rolling up windows and adjusting headlights from the Autel. They even replaced a brake caliper and bled the system with the ABS pump! It was pretty cool. I'm hoping that the next "last years model" falls off a truck my way. I got the Autel TPMS machine that way when his (now) ex-wife got on drugs and he asked me to store her firearm away from his house so that he didn't wake up dead.
99 VX
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