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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so has anyone used slotted and dimpled rotors? what have you noticed. i see some decent priced slotted. but the slotted and dimpled(not drilled) are expensive. im sure theyre an improvement but how much?

anyone anyone? Bueller?
 

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I have drilled and slotted rotors on my trooper and have noticed a difference really only in the rain. They seam to displace the water better than factory rotors
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Copy. Thanks for the info! i have some brake replacing that needs done. I think i may have matched up some dual piston calipers. if they dont work out looking at the slotted and dimpled possibility.

I already need to replace rear calipers along with rotors and pads. so im trying to do this right for the last time.
 

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I've written on this a couple of times. For real braking improvement I'm convinced the best way to go in general is with a matched set of pads and rotors from the same manufacturer. I've run Powerstop products on 3 vehicles now without complaints with the rotors. Drilled and slotted. I recently put a matched kit of drilled and slotted rotors and Evolution Ceramic Hi-Po pads from Powerstop on my wife's Honda CRV. The gains were impressive. Prior to this I can't say that ceramic pads have ever impressed me. Last year I went back to semi metallic pads on the Trooper and think they work well on that with the big brake upgrade up front and I still have stock sized drilled Powerstops on the rear.

I had previously run EBC green stuff 6000 pads on the front of the Trooper on the Powerstop rotors and wasn't impressed with the stopping. The pads needed to heat up well to stop well. Just doesn't feel great when you live on top of a steep twisty hill and tow a boat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i think i remember reading about your ebc experience..... sorry my memory is not too good tho. but glad you chimed in to re-inform. im trying to gain all info i can while seeing if i can figure out some better calipers in the process. but i can say id be very "sore" dumping huge money into stopping with little effect when i can enjoy more HP instead. :twisted:
 

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Hey Crash, like I mentioned when we talked, I've upgraded the brakes on my daughter's RS with significant improvement. No more chatter with the ABS while braking anymore, and better stopping distance. I pretty much went with the article you'll fine in the FAQ post floating around here. One of the best improvements you can make is just installing steel braided lines instead of the rubber ones. I have slotted rotors all around on hers. I also rememeber using a specific type of fluid, but can't remember what I used now. I DID NOT go with ceramic pads though. I ordered a set, installed them, and wasn't impressed with them. No major difference, unless you get them pretty hot. My thoughts were, 'I paid quite a bit for the rotors, and ceramic pads are pretty hard on rotors. Since I haven't seen any improvement, why wear out the rotors prematuraly'..... I'd be intersted to know what you find out about the calipers if you find a set that works....

Since we talked, I'm really interested in doing performance mods to mine now, so any improvement in braking would be a big plus.
 

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I just recieved my drilled rotors and am excited to install them along with bigger brakes from the 2001 Trooper. :D Everything I have read says it is worth it.

cheers
-Ian :blackeye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wingnut2840 said:
Hey Crash, like I mentioned when we talked, I've upgraded the brakes on my daughter's RS with significant improvement. No more chatter with the ABS while braking anymore, and better stopping distance. I pretty much went with the article you'll fine in the FAQ post floating around here. One of the best improvements you can make is just installing steel braided lines instead of the rubber ones. I have slotted rotors all around on hers. I also rememeber using a specific type of fluid, but can't remember what I used now. I DID NOT go with ceramic pads though. I ordered a set, installed them, and wasn't impressed with them. No major difference, unless you get them pretty hot. My thoughts were, 'I paid quite a bit for the rotors, and ceramic pads are pretty hard on rotors. Since I haven't seen any improvement, why wear out the rotors prematuraly'..... I'd be intersted to know what you find out about the calipers if you find a set that works....

Since we talked, I'm really interested in doing performance mods to mine now, so any improvement in braking would be a big plus.
Well it seems that some people are finding ways to make better braking. Im noting all info when applicable. I have new master cylinder, braided lines,check valve and i need to buy new calipers and pads. So still searching to make a Big brake kit with brembo's or wildwood if possible. Taking my time on this one. need those brakes to be Spot on!

Let me know what you want to do performance wise man. We can make you up a kit! I got good connections for the kits im putting together. Keeping costs down. Look fwd to seeing what you want to do.
 

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I'm not sure of the year of your Amigo but i'm thinking 2nd gen. So I'm going to write this up based on parts I have used and a '98 'Migo. If you have a different year just go to that site and punch in your year.

Front drivers side rotor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-JBR-567L/

Front pass side rotor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-JBR-567R/

Front brake pads to match these rotors.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-16-579/

Rear drivers side rotor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-JBR-569L/

Rear pass side rotor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-JBR-569R/

Rear brake pads to match these rotors.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-16-580/

Use new hardware kits on each brake and lube all the slider pins and bolts.
Add the Independant4x braided steel brake lines.
Bleed your brakes well until plenty of clean fluid comes out of all 4 corners. Bleed left rear, right rear, right front, left front, repeat again and again in that order. Use regular dot3 fluid unless you change the master and calipers. I don't like changing fluid types with old rubber parts.

These are the same rotors I used on Red Beans only these are the 2nd gen style. Not the cheapest but they are not Chinese. They are European OEM replacement that are then drilled and plated. At least mine were. They can also be turned. I had my rears turned when I changed pads. They've held up well to towing on my truck.
I'm running just the rears right now as I did a big brake upgrade to the front and have stock front rotors for now. I'm using semi-metallics in all 4 corners.
Check this thread.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=56817

I just used a matched kit of the next model down Powerstop rotors and these same pads on the front of my wife's Honda CRV. We've both been real impressed with the braking. Even when they are cold. It's the 1st set of ceramic brake pads I was ever impressed by. If you don't want ceramics my next choice would be to go for some Hawk HPRs or some generic Semi-metallics.

I wasn't impressed by the EBC 6000 Green stuff pads with these rotors. They might be awesome with Matched EBC rotors though. I haven't tried that.

If you have a 1st gen then do the big brake upgrade to second gen front brakes using the above pads and rotors. And buy the 1st gen same style for the rear. The big advantage of the drilled, or slotted rotors is gas release between the pad and rotor under heavy braking and better cooling of the rotor. I'd do this before I went for the really big bucks of muti-piston calipers personally. This isn't the ultimate setup I'm sure. But the ones I've tried and been happy with. Also Matt at Independant4x sells a couple of lines of high performance brakes I think including these. Give him a call and see what he recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Great info, thanks for all the links. i know theres alot of people who are looking into brakes, me included. im def not happy with my current status. in fact im already handicapped due to previous owners mechanic skills.

I will look into those links for sure. But im not a fan of "drilled" anything. id like to stay in the "Dimpled" rhealm if rusting is an issue w/ these rotors, esp living in Pennsyl-tucky!

salt salt salt.
 

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Sorry of necro posting, but this is the close I could find in my searching.

Anyways with the rear rotors on a gen 2 Trooper being about 1.3" larger in diameter why not put rear rotors up front for better braking?
 

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Polie said:
bump. another day or so and I will make a new thread :)
Addressed in your other thread. The rear rotors actually have less swept area. they are bigger because they have a bigger hole in the middle! The big top hat part for the internal e brake. The rear pads are much smaller than the fronts.
 

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I have tried all the high-dollar brakes, never seen any kind of brake advancement.

Seriously impressed with just your top of the line ceramic brakes and rotors from Car-quest......I drive 11,000ft mountain passes with a 4-5,000lb load behind the rodeo with another couple hundred pounds in and on top of the rodeo; stops better with these brakes then any brakes I've had before.
 

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Ramblin Fever said:
I have tried all the high-dollar brakes, never seen any kind of brake advancement.

Seriously impressed with just your top of the line ceramic brakes and rotors from Car-quest......I drive 11,000ft mountain passes with a 4-5,000lb load behind the rodeo with another couple hundred pounds in and on top of the rodeo; stops better with these brakes then any brakes I've had before.
better than the EBC red stuff? Going to need brakes here in 10k miles or so anyways.

imamonstertruck said:
I just recieved my drilled rotors and am excited to install them along with bigger brakes from the 2001 Trooper. :D Everything I have read says it is worth it.

cheers
-Ian :blackeye:
Bigger brakes. Someone sells a kit or did you find bigger rotors??
 

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I don't understand why in the world you would want to reduce the contact surface area of your brakes by drilling and slotting the rotors.These trucks aren't exactly track vehicles having to go from 120 mph down to 40 mph for a sharp turn lap after lap.
 

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Enemigo said:
I don't understand why in the world you would want to reduce the contact surface area of your brakes by drilling and slotting the rotors.These trucks aren't exactly track vehicles having to go from 120 mph down to 40 mph for a sharp turn lap after lap.
Must be nice living in Kansas :lol:

But seriously if you have ever dont some narley passes like the Grapevine with or without a trailer you would understand. Heat fade DOES happen and it suxs. :oops:
 

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Brake fade is a for reall thing !! I've delt with it in my 94 f350 ford... I really want to build a rotor setup for the rear, plus it's vacuum brakes not hydro boost..
 
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