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takemehome4LOroads said:
OME shocks and leaf springs
Energy suspension bushings for leaf springs and sway bar
New ball joints and lower + upper control arm bushings
I've done most of the mechanical stuff so far but never fooled with a suspension. How hard was it to get the new bushings in? My suspension squeaks like rusty bed springs.
 

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Leaf springs bushings can go either way, I redid mine last summer and had a real hard time. I literally had to beat them out. What had happened was the rubber had seized to the shackle bolts and would not break loose. It was a good thing I was doing a shackle lift at the same time as I ruined the originals. What helped was I finally soaked the bushing in WD40 and things started to give. Didn't want to use heat next to the gas tank.
The previous 3 times on other Troopers was pretty darn easy. Plan on using 2 jacks during the process. I used a small bottle jack to reposition the spring when putting it back together.
Ball joints are not that tough, but plan on using two BF hammers in the process, I am in the middle of that right now.
I have never had to replace the front bushing on the rear leaf spring, they seem to have a low wear rate in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
For me the leaf spring bushings were no problem. Some of them were dried up and shrunk and I could just push em out. I'm in the same boat as you as far doing a lot of engine work but not a lot of suspension. The rear is a piece of cake. The front is an ordeal. Mainly the control arm bushings and just not getting overwhelmed because there are a lot of parts and you might as well service everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
So my 4ZE1 had developed a concerning problem: small droplets of oil in the coolant, accompanied by small black flecks of something (gasket material?). As far as I can tell there is no coolant in the oil.

I noticed this while bleeding the cooling system with a large funnel on top of the radiator, and I saw the drops float to the top, probably like a half teaspoon of total oil. I let the engine idle until I didn't see anymore floating up, dumped the contaminated coolant, and topped up the system with fresh coolant.

Then I went on a 200+ mile drive on a hot day, came back home and put the funnel back on the radiator and sure enough, there were noticeably more drops of oil floating to the top. I pulled the cylinder head off, and I couldn't find any obvious failures in the gasket, but perhaps it is such a small failure that it wouldn't be easily seen by the naked eye. Yes I've been checking the torque on the head bolts.

Going to throw on a Fel-Pro head gasket and see what happens. Anyone have any other ideas? :help:

Edit: Forgot to mention, checked the head and block with a straight-edge, no warping found. Original head gasket was an ITM brand, from Jerry.
 
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