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takemehome4LOroads said:
Thanks for the idea Ed. I've read many of your helpful replies on other threads and I shudder to remind you I live in CaLiFoRNia. Do you think that combo of early pistons+late head+Jerry cam would cause issues for the Smog test? I wonder if anyone else in CA is running that config.
Oh, No, not Commiefornia! My deepest condolences!! :shock: :twisted:

The most significant effect of higher compression (besides more power!) is an increase in NOx emissions. The Jerry Cam isn't so radical a grind, and I can't imagine it'll have much effect on smog.

You'll definitely want to run a CARB-approved new catalytic converter along with your cat-back free-flowing exhaust. A new cat should make 'er run nice n' clean, I'd think. Make sure all your other emissions devices (sensors, EGR, etc) are working properly, too.

Might not be a bad idea to ask ZuZu Guru Jerry Lemond what he thinks about that.
 
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On your cylinder pitting. If it is below the lowest RING TRAVEL, you shouldn't have a problem. The piston will obviously "touch", but the rings are what you need to be concerned about.
Here's what you do: Measure from the top of the piston to the bottom of the lowest ring. Now measure down from the head surface of the block 3.7", and add the measurement from the piston measurement. If it clears the pitting, you have no problem at all. If it is in the space for the lowest (oil control) ring, you might still be okay. The second ring, the "scraper" is what you need to be most concerned about.
You can probably put it together and be okay. A few years back, I did some work on an engine for my kid brother (the machine destroyer). This was a horizontally opposed Kohler industrial engine, it had been sitting, and was locked up. On removing the heads, both cylinders were pretty rusty. At least one had scales on the cylinder walls.
I told him it would probably need bored and new pistons and a replacement engine might be cheaper. He asked me to try it. I ran a hone through it with the pistons still in it and at bottom of the stroke. I put the heads back on (with the old gaskets), changed the oil, and it fired up. It ran without smoking. I ran it for a half hour and still no smoking. To the best of my knowledge, he is still using that engine (it's on a small stump grinder). GHope some of this info is helpful to you. Dennis
BTW, increased compression ratio will probably not affect emissions output.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
DSUZU said:
On your cylinder pitting. If it is below the lowest RING TRAVEL, you shouldn't have a problem. The piston will obviously "touch", but the rings are what you need to be concerned about.
Here's what you do: Measure from the top of the piston to the bottom of the lowest ring. Now measure down from the head surface of the block 3.7", and add the measurement from the piston measurement. If it clears the pitting, you have no problem at all. If it is in the space for the lowest (oil control) ring, you might still be okay. The second ring, the "scraper" is what you need to be most concerned about.
You can probably put it together and be okay. A few years back, I did some work on an engine for my kid brother (the machine destroyer). This was a horizontally opposed Kohler industrial engine, it had been sitting, and was locked up. On removing the heads, both cylinders were pretty rusty. At least one had scales on the cylinder walls.
I told him it would probably need bored and new pistons and a replacement engine might be cheaper. He asked me to try it. I ran a hone through it with the pistons still in it and at bottom of the stroke. I put the heads back on (with the old gaskets), changed the oil, and it fired up. It ran without smoking. I ran it for a half hour and still no smoking. To the best of my knowledge, he is still using that engine (it's on a small stump grinder). GHope some of this info is helpful to you. Dennis
BTW, increased compression ratio will probably not affect emissions output.
The pitting is above the cylinder at bottom dead center, I think I measured it around 3.65".

I went to the pick-a-part this weekend and pulled a block that had 162k on the odometer. It still has the crosshatch pattern in the cylinders.





All the cylinders had the same dark coloration in this spot to the right:



Not sure what those dark spots could mean, but I plan on taking the block to a well reviewed machine shop and having it hot tanked and checked out.
 

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You ever get so close to finishing something and then hit a snag? Well I'm finally moving past the snag.

I just got my second block back from the machinist. Looks like he did a great job. Hot tank, rebore, deck, magnaflux test, and polished the crank. It took them just over two weeks, but they are a busy shop, which I think is a good sign.

IMG-1824.JPG


IMG-1825.JPG


One thing he said was that the replacement galley plug they had on hand (I think it's 18mm) wouldn't give them as strong a press fit as they would hope, based on their measurements. So he suggested I try to find a replacement, which I will inquire about with Jerry.

IMG-1823.JPG


Finally ready to make the big order with JLEMOND, and start the rebuilding process. If any body in Southern California is interested in my old block, let me know, otherwise it's going to the metal scrap guy.
 

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Looks great! I have a block in waiting for my Spacecab.
Darn thing just keeps on going.
 

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Ok, finally made that big order with Jerry, as well as Clearwater cylinder heads.

Decided to line up all my children for picture day one last time before the build begins.

0FB1273E-4950-4E44-A7C2-E6EE022BB98B.jpeg


Everything except the head, starter and alternator were ordered from Jerry, including his famous Jerry cam. And I made sure to ask for every rubber hose that was available.

I found re-maned Bosch starter And alternator units on Amazon of all places. There's something so satisfying in getting parts for this car that come in old cardboard boxes that have been on the shelf for years.

Cylinder head is new, not a re-man. And with a 10% off promo and free shipping, I thought I got it for a steal at $333. Looks to be in good shape. I've seen them recommended a lot on the Planet, but Jerry cautioned me to make sure to buy New because he's had issues with some re-maned units from them.

Now on to checking ring end gaps and plenty of plastigauging.
 

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Between the overbore and the cam, this little puppy is gonna be snappy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I somehow scored my crankshaft. A speck of dirt must've gotten in there despite that I thought I was being very careful. I can just barely feel the score with my fingernail. I'm going to take it back to the machine shop for their opinion, possible repolish or turning. Also a couple of bearings have what look like a small spec of dirt or something embedded. As clean as I'm trying to work, I've got to try even harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
OK folks. It's been a while since I posted. Mostly I've been dealing with my own screw-ups, and a small group of consummate professionals have been rescuing me at every turn.

I got my crankshaft repolished very nicely by my local machine shop. If you're in the Los Angeles area, I can't recommend Martin Davidsons' machine shop enough.

Putting my engine back together, I managed to knock a piston off my work table, Mr. Magoo style, breaking the skirt and nearly broke down in tears. Jerry Lemond, who is a god among men, sent me a replacement piston, which the above-mentioned machine shop installed for me.

Now, the main point of this post. I found on Craigslist what was described as an "Aussie Bull Bar". When I clicked the link, my heart skipped a beat. It looked like an original ARB Bull Bar. But on closer inspection, it is slightly different. No amount of googling has uncovered anything about the Aussie company, but this is indeed an original period accessory, made in Australia, and imported probably in the early 90s. I'm wondering if anyone here is familiar with this specific build. At $300 it was a no brainer to pick up. It even came with all the original installation hardware and literature. It is 100% aluminum. I'm unsure if the ARB models are steel or AL.
 

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Awesome find! Might be a TJM - they did a lot of aluminum bull bar type stuff, similar to ARB. [edit: looks like we know it's an "aussie" - likely a competitor of ARB and TJM back in the day. Neato!]
 

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That is incredible! The Roos in LA don't stand a chance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
paulevans76 said:
Awesome find! Might be a TJM - they did a lot of aluminum bull bar type stuff, similar to ARB. [edit: looks like we know it's an "aussie" - likely a competitor of ARB and TJM back in the day. Neato!]
I never anticipated getting a bull bar because I liked the ARB one so much and know they are impossible to find, and if you find any new build they are $1k+. This one is so similar, and I'm very happy to have a nice accent on my Trooper. Can't wait to also install a winch I'll probably never use!

hessmess said:
That is incredible! The Roos in LA don't stand a chance!
Lol! More like coyotes. Hopefully no mountain lions! They do occasionally get hit out here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Here's a few more angles. I don't have those cutouts on the front left and right, which I'm guessing are for lights.

Also the wrap around pieces are seperate and need to be bolted on.
 

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