On my car it was the beginning of an intake manifold gasket leak. The performance issues took a little more time to manifest.
Whistle under the hood
It is a little bit colder these days in montreal...
This morning I started the 1998 Rodeo (3.2/ Automatic/ 50K miles) and between 1900 and 3000 Rpm I hear a whistle comming from the engine. It cleared away as the engine warmed up. I did not push it at all so I can't tell if there is a power loss or not. First day it does that.
Is that the first sign of a leaking intake gasket?
Could it be a stupid idller that starts to rock not roll?
Anybody has ever seen this before?
Should I simply raise the volume on the radio or leave the truck in the driveway for a week to punish it?
Thanks
This morning I started the 1998 Rodeo (3.2/ Automatic/ 50K miles) and between 1900 and 3000 Rpm I hear a whistle comming from the engine. It cleared away as the engine warmed up. I did not push it at all so I can't tell if there is a power loss or not. First day it does that.
Is that the first sign of a leaking intake gasket?
Could it be a stupid idller that starts to rock not roll?
Anybody has ever seen this before?
Should I simply raise the volume on the radio or leave the truck in the driveway for a week to punish it?
Thanks
1 - 5 of 30 Posts
One on either side of the intake manifold where it sits on top of the engine.
I didn't do this job myself so I honestly can't say what needs to be shuffled around in order to get it out and then put it back.
I've done intake manifolds before and I wouldn't say it's a terribly difficult task. You just need to work carefully and ensure that NOTHING gets into the heads.
IIRC, the parts are cheap and probably ~$70-90 at the dealer. The labor is where they'll get you. I would EASILY expect to pay $300-400 in labor for this @ my local dealer's rate of $75/hr.
I didn't do this job myself so I honestly can't say what needs to be shuffled around in order to get it out and then put it back.
I've done intake manifolds before and I wouldn't say it's a terribly difficult task. You just need to work carefully and ensure that NOTHING gets into the heads.
IIRC, the parts are cheap and probably ~$70-90 at the dealer. The labor is where they'll get you. I would EASILY expect to pay $300-400 in labor for this @ my local dealer's rate of $75/hr.
Isn't everything in Canada measured in the metric system?
He didn't say to use brake cleaner; He said carb cleaner.
Good thing you thought about it before doing it.
Brake cleaner would eat up lots of other stuff on your engine that you wouldn't want to eat up.
Good thing you thought about it before doing it.
Brake cleaner would eat up lots of other stuff on your engine that you wouldn't want to eat up.
Honestly, I feel that most of the problems on this truck give fair warning *and* can be fixed for pocket change if you DIY.
Except for my ABS failure, everything else has been relatively simple for a home mechanic. Thankfully, the ABS failure was covered under warranty, not that I cared for the system. However, in the unlikely case that I ever decide to sell the car it is a nice thing to have.
112K miles on my '99 Passport
Gas gauge problem: Dropped the tank and fixed the fingers on the fuel sender.
Intake Manifold: Replaced both gaskets at 40K miles, no problems since.
O2 Sensor: Replaced bad sensor
Valve ticking: Happens every now and then so I change the oil and it goes away.
It's been smooth sailing otherwise *knocks on plastic wood trim*
It still idles smooth and I'm getting a consistent 18MPG driving to/from work near NYC in moderate traffic everyday.
---
Just one question here for everyone: Is WD40 an appropriate "lubricant" for a bearing? Isn't the stuff like 80% solvent?
I don't know the specifics of the bearing in the idler, but I'm guessing that it is a sealed unit and once it starts to squeal it should be replaced. I think you're risking a broken/damaged belt if that thing starts to seize up.
Glad to hear you resolved your problem!
Except for my ABS failure, everything else has been relatively simple for a home mechanic. Thankfully, the ABS failure was covered under warranty, not that I cared for the system. However, in the unlikely case that I ever decide to sell the car it is a nice thing to have.
112K miles on my '99 Passport
Gas gauge problem: Dropped the tank and fixed the fingers on the fuel sender.
Intake Manifold: Replaced both gaskets at 40K miles, no problems since.
O2 Sensor: Replaced bad sensor
Valve ticking: Happens every now and then so I change the oil and it goes away.
It's been smooth sailing otherwise *knocks on plastic wood trim*
It still idles smooth and I'm getting a consistent 18MPG driving to/from work near NYC in moderate traffic everyday.
---
Just one question here for everyone: Is WD40 an appropriate "lubricant" for a bearing? Isn't the stuff like 80% solvent?
I don't know the specifics of the bearing in the idler, but I'm guessing that it is a sealed unit and once it starts to squeal it should be replaced. I think you're risking a broken/damaged belt if that thing starts to seize up.
Glad to hear you resolved your problem!
1 - 5 of 30 Posts
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