What is this? I found in the oil pan.
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They look like fornt and rear seals for the oil pan, not familiar with 1st gens' setups but that kit may encompass a few different styles...
Those are the end seals for the upper aluminum pan. The metal part looks like the flange off of one of the bear caps. Yikes. Do you have the engine out? Or just the lower pan dropped? I would pull the upper pan to say the least and inspect. Something is very wrong there.
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Sure looks like a thrust insert to me as well...bad poopie.
Yeah I stopped by the garage and he said that it looked like a thrust Bearing, what is it the spacer or something that holds the bearing in place? Who knows how long that's been out but I've been driving it for a while now. Damn you don't think maybe that's why it's been jerking, I thought it was the rear.
Well can I just drop the crank pan/case and put that back in? This is gonna be a hell of a job or is it gonna be a simple fix haha?
Well can I just drop the crank pan/case and put that back in? This is gonna be a hell of a job or is it gonna be a simple fix haha?
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Doesn't hold the bearing in place, it IS the bearing that controls fore and aft movement of the crank. More common is a one piece main journal bearing that has sides built on it (one piece) to control thrust. In the 2.6, Miata, BMW motorcycle and several others I'm familiar with the main journal bearings are separate from the thrust bearings and they instead use these crescent shaped thrust bearings.
Where it gets nasty is when this thrust bearing drops out and allows the crank to move forward and back and now it's metal on metal without this bearing, grinding in to the block and also wiping out the thrust surface of the crank.
Where it gets nasty is when this thrust bearing drops out and allows the crank to move forward and back and now it's metal on metal without this bearing, grinding in to the block and also wiping out the thrust surface of the crank.
That piece actually IS the bearing. One of two actually. It's a piece of metal with three babbit bearings on one side, and a flat backing steel on the other. The whole thing should sit in a shaped notch on one side of a crank main support (block side, not main cap).
Actually Isuzu calls them "Thrust Washer". You can see it if you go to myisuzuparts.com and select your year and trooper, then in the middle pane select "Parts Catalog", under that select "Engine", then in the right pane select "Crankshaft, Piston, and Flywheel", and finally select "4ZE1 Gasoline Eng" in the bottom left and submit at the bottom. It's labeled part #42. Sorry if you're familiar with myisuzuparts but I couldn't find a way to link to what I was looking at.
I would ask others that have that motor and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I think and engine pull and bearing inspection is going to be in the future.
Actually Isuzu calls them "Thrust Washer". You can see it if you go to myisuzuparts.com and select your year and trooper, then in the middle pane select "Parts Catalog", under that select "Engine", then in the right pane select "Crankshaft, Piston, and Flywheel", and finally select "4ZE1 Gasoline Eng" in the bottom left and submit at the bottom. It's labeled part #42. Sorry if you're familiar with myisuzuparts but I couldn't find a way to link to what I was looking at.
I would ask others that have that motor and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I think and engine pull and bearing inspection is going to be in the future.
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Once that thrust washer is dropped, the crank and the block are usually junk.
Especially on a manual transmission, since all the pressure of the throwout is transferred to the crank and when you push in the clutch you are grinding metal off the block and the crank.
These blocks are getting rare - so you may be looking for a few dollars of repair.
I know - I lost my OE 2.6 block and crank that way 30,000 miles ago.
BTW: Look for a tiny piece of piston skirt too in the pan. The #3 piston will hit it's rod and knock a chunk outta it once the thrust bearings are dropped out of place.
Especially on a manual transmission, since all the pressure of the throwout is transferred to the crank and when you push in the clutch you are grinding metal off the block and the crank.
These blocks are getting rare - so you may be looking for a few dollars of repair.
I know - I lost my OE 2.6 block and crank that way 30,000 miles ago.
BTW: Look for a tiny piece of piston skirt too in the pan. The #3 piston will hit it's rod and knock a chunk outta it once the thrust bearings are dropped out of place.
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There WILL be a day though!squatch said:
The manual transmission units harm the thrust bearings when you have to hold the clutch down to start them.
At that time the thrust washers are dry from the last hot shut-down and then you hit the starter and push the pressure from the clutch into dry bearings on a dry crank face, you rip a little metal off each and every time you start it.
After my first engine catastrophe, I disconnected the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal.
Damn, well it looks like there are two of them in there and only one fell out so how long you think I got till she'll quit running? It's running fine right now no grinding and I didn't find any other metal in the oil pan. The guy at the garage said to run it till it's done.
So what engine would be the easiest and best one to swap into her. My mechanic doesn't do deisel swaps so that will have to wait. Any ideas on where I can find a good rebuilt engine?
So what engine would be the easiest and best one to swap into her. My mechanic doesn't do deisel swaps so that will have to wait. Any ideas on where I can find a good rebuilt engine?
So can I replace the crank while the engine is still in or am I gonna have to pull it. This could suck, I don't have an engine puller or stand. From what I've read it sounds possible but I still gotta have something to support the engine right, so I'll still need a puller?
My secondary vehicle is a moped too haha, ol' Black Betty blama blam.
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My secondary vehicle is a moped too haha, ol' Black Betty blama blam.
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Should'n be too bad now that the weather is nice. :twisted:HEMIII said:So can I replace the crank while the engine is still in or am I gonna have to pull it. This could suck, I don't have an engine puller or stand. From what I've read it sounds possible but I still gotta have something to support the engine right, so I'll still need a puller?
My secondary vehicle is a moped too haha, ol' Black Betty blama blam.
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