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I have a 91 Rodeo and I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with welding up thier rear diff? I know about the tire drag when you take tight turns when you have good traction. Can I even do this to my diff? I heard that you have to have an open diff, not one with a worn out posi. Is this true? Help! Does my truck have posi or an open diif?
 

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Kickingtrees said:
I have a 91 Rodeo and I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with welding up thier rear diff?
Sure, I did mine. I've had mine welded for a few months now. If you can do it yourself it makes for a hella-cheap locker. The difference offroad is amazing. You can go thru stuff that you might have had trouble with before without even thinking about it.

Kickingtrees said:
I know about the tire drag when you take tight turns when you have good traction. Can I even do this to my diff? I heard that you have to have an open diff, not one with a worn out posi. Is this true? Help! Does my truck have posi or an open diif?
Well I have a Trooper but I think your Rodeo should have the same diffs(10 bolt front & 12 bolt rear). Not 100% sure on that since I don't know anything abour Rodeo's. "G80" is the option code for LSD, at least on Troopers. Look on your option plate on the firewall and see if it shows G80. If it does then you have LSD. You should also be able to tell by jacking one rear wheel off the ground and spinning it by hand. If it turns very easily then it's open. If it will not turn, or takes a good amount of effort to turn it then you probably have a LSD. I have never seen the insides of an Isuzu LSD unit so I can't say for sure whether or not they could be welded. I think most people that have welded diffs have used open units. There are clutches and springs and stuff inside a LSD that would probably burn up and create a lot of slop in the side gears if you welded it up. If it's open then you should have no problems with it. It's a little wierd on tight parking lots but other than that I hardly notice mine. Hope that helps.

Cut a piece of 5/16"(or similar size) steel that just fits in between all the gears like this....


Weld the gears to each other and to your piece of steel and you will never have to worry about breaking it.
 

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Kickin trees has a gm 10 bolt. They came in rodeos up til 93, then they went with dana 44. I'm sure it can be welded up, but another option you may have is to swap it for a dana 44 from a later model, with an lsd that works. If you want to go to larger tires, you may be pushing the limit for a welded 10 bolt.

Actually now that I think about it, spreedin from 4x4wire has a dana 44 already welded up, with drum brakes and 4.56 gears for sale. http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&Old=1week&Main=376562&Search=true#Post381771 yah its not the cheap answer, but it is definately stronger, and you regear at the same time, all you gotta do is pick up the front third member from a 4cyl amigo or trooper. Def good if you want to go to larger tires.

mike
________
Bmw f650cs
 

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Dave, that's a different 10-bolt. The GM 10bolt and the Isuzu 10-bolt are different differentials.

He should have some locker options with the GM 10-bolt however, or just swap in a D44 from a later rodeo. It should bolt right in and have disk brakes too.

-Tad
 

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is your welded up diff still holding up fine, i'm really thinking hard about doing this, i just put in 5.38 gears and want a locker, but don't want to come off of 600-800 dollars for an air locker and compresor. My main concern is that i run 33x14.50 and plan to go to 35 or 36. I've read that the corporate 12 bolt is just as strong as a d44. I'm just not sure though.
did it make a diff while driving down the road at highway speeds, i hear it makes it hard to keep a straight line?
 

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Does anyone make a mini-spool for the 10bolt/12bolt . I see a bunch on them in Jegs and Summitt but I have no idea which ones I have. which spline I have or anything. At least you could take a spool back out. And they go for $65 to $100 .
 

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Nope, you are out of luck. The closest thing that you can get to that is a Lincoln Locker (welding the rear diff). You could get a 2nd third-member and swap it back out if you didn't like it. Aside from that for the 12-bolt your only option is the ARB air locker, and for the 10-bolt you can get an ARB air locker, or if you can find it a lockright.

-Tad
 

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So for everyday driving and some off-roading . Which is better to weld-up. the front or rear . I would think the front. Plus I run 31" mud tires.
 

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never weld a front diff without lockouts. It will become nearly undrivable on the street. I run a welded rear and dont mind it at all, I feel the slight increase in tire wear is worth the added traction off road.
 

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No_Cure said:
lockouts? you mean manual hubs? Yes I have a set of Superwinch manual hubs.
No_Cure huh, do I know you? Considering your signature, I think there is a good chance of that...

Anyway, my recommendation for anyone who has to ask questions about welding up the gears, you don't want to do it. One kick *** mod, but if you don't already know what you are getting yourself into, don't do it. Build up your experience first (experience always wins out over equipment).

And yes, I have run a welded diff before on a daily driver truck. If the Trooper wasn't my wife's truck, I would do it all over again. But, this isn't my truck.
 
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