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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a link to where I can get the VSS Driven gear replacement for the VSS bushing assembly? I tried 3 different online Honda Dealerships for the Honda part but was refunded because part is now discontinued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Buster28 said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363384439917
20 Teeth

This is a 19 tooth gear
https://www.ebay.com/p/693737792
Buster, does it matter which toothed gear I use? I have an 01 Rodeo 2wd. I got my VSS out, and noticed the plastic teeth are very worn down compared to pics online, figured since it was out I will replace and see if it helps my no speedo/odometer issue.
 

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The number of teeth on the gear is based on the rear gear ratio and the diameter of the tires.
How many teeth on your gear?
 

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A 01 Rodeo V6 auto came from the factory with 245 70R16 tires and a 4.10 gear. Your installed 255 70R16 tire is about 0.6 inches greater in diameter. The 245 70R16 is 648 revolutions/mile and the 255 is 671 revolutions/mile. The 19 tooth gear is probably a better choice than the 20 tooth.

What is wrong with your speedo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Buster28 said:
A 01 Rodeo V6 auto came from the factory with 245 70R16 tires and a 4.10 gear. Your installed 255 70R16 tire is about 0.6 inches greater in diameter. The 245 70R16 is 648 revolutions/mile and the 255 is 671 revolutions/mile. The 19 tooth gear is probably a better choice than the 20 tooth.

What is wrong with your speedo?
Speedo and odometer and cruise control are not working. So I removed the vss on the passenger side and saw what appeared to be worn down gearing on the plastic gear. Hopeful that is the issue.
 

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Buster28 said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363384439917
20 Teeth

This is a 19 tooth gear
https://www.ebay.com/p/693737792
Hi Buster,

Do these gears work for a 2001 Trooper as well? 4.30 gears were the only ones offered in the Troopers IIRC.
 

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Just pulled my VSS gear: it is indeed 18t and seems to look completely fine. I also attached a drill to the VSS with the car on, and nothing at the dash, so it does seem like the sensor has gone bad. As an aside, I do have 285/75/16s on the Trooper, so it appears that the 20T gear would correct my speedo very closely.

20210719_190627_resized.jpg

20210719_190635_resized.jpg

20210719_190652_resized.jpg
 

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An OE replacement VSS electronic assembly is over 300 bucks but these ebay ones are less than 9 bucks and will probably work in your truck,
use google to search ebay for "Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) for Isuzu Rodeo Amigo Trooper Honda Acura 8971188100"
Click image to expand
 

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Thanks for the help and suggestions Buster. Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship to Canada, so I defaulted to RockAuto. Went for the $5 option...Let's see how it does.

Speed Sensor Rock Auto.JPG
 

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So the $5 sensor didn't not resolve the issue. I guess I need to get comfortable with the multimeter and electrical troubleshooting methods...this is new territory for me.
 

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So first steps completed:

From this thread: https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic. ... g#p5437353

Buster28 said:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a 3 wire device mounted to the RH side of the TOD transfer case.
Pin 1 of the VSS connector is a Blue/Yellow wire, it is connected to +12 Vdc source that is controlled by the Ignition Switch.
Pin 2 of the VSS connector is a Black/Red wire that is connected to chassis ground.
Pin 3 of the VSS connector is a Light Green/White wire that connects to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Speedometer. This is the VSS output signal which is generated as the rear propeller shaft operates the VSS mechanical shaft. The output signal is in a string of pulses that represents propeller shaft rotations.

Since both the Speedometer and Cruise Control are inoperative it suggests there is a problem involving the VSS. The first thing to do is measure the voltage between Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the VSS connector with the ignition switch in the Run position, the expected result is +12 Vdc (more or less).
With the key in the RUN position, there's no voltage to the VSS. So this suggests that either the +12VDC wire or the ground wire has failed somewhere correct?
 

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Pin 1 on the VSS connector goes to chassis connector H-10 Pin 9
chassis connector H-10 Pin 9 goes to chassis connector H-7 Pin 15
chassis connector H-7 Pin 15 goes to splice SB13
splice SB13 connects to fuse C-10 "Meter/Gauge" , the Meter Assy, chassis connector H-7 Pin 15.

The "Meter" is the instrument panel lamps and gauges, if they operate fuse C-10 is not blown so there is an open circuit between the splice and the VSS if there is no 12 Vdc present when measuring between VSS connector Pin 1 and a good chassis ground or the battery negative terminal with the ignition switch in the Run position.

H-7 is a 20 Pin Brown/White connector located above the LH dash trim panel
H-10 is a 16 Pin Blue connector located at the left front of the engine compartment.

Before troubleshooting the Pin 1 +12 Vdc circuit make sure VSS connector Pin-2 is actually grounded since you had your meter connected to it when you checked for voltage on pin 1.
 

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OK so connected my jumper cable to the negative battery terminal, connected one of the multimeter cable to that cable and the other to Pin 2 on the VSS connector. With the car off, it was less than 1ohm. This seems to indicate that pin 2 is grounding as it should. I turned the car on and I double checked pin 1 for +12VDC while the jumper cable was still attached to the other probe and got no reading. As a sanity check, I swapped the negative probe from the jumper cable to pin 2 on the VSS connector and same result.

Next I checked pin 9 for +12VDC on the blue H-10 connector under the hood, passenger side. I assume I'm checking the male connector with the male pins. Negative probe stuck into the negative battery terminal, car on, pin 9 reads nothing. To be sure everything was reading as it should, I checked other pins they showed a variety of readings up to ~12v. So I know power is going to H-10, but not pin 9.

I'll have to tackle getting the the H-7 connector Sunday evening as I'm leaving for a trip. Man it's buried back there above the kick panel and fuse box.
 

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I went back and double checked my work this evening to make sure I was checking the right connectors and pins, and it was a good thing I did. I was checking the wrong blue connector at the front RH side of the engine compartment, which is the LHS when facing the engine bay...lesson learned. Everything is called out from the drivers perspective. The trigger was reading the wiring diagram and not recalling seeing the blue/yellow wire at the connector, so there were doubts I checked the right one.

20210725_210239_resized.jpg

20210725_210235_resized.jpg

Pin 9 on the H10 connector has 12V, so it seems there's a break in the wire from the H10 pin to the VSS connector.

So next move is to figure out where the break is, which seems like an insane task since I'd have to pull the harness apart from the engine bay to the transfer case. Is it possible to power the VSS from a spliced 12V source close by?
 

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kperras said:
Pin 9 on the H7 connector has 12V, so it seems there's a break in the wire from the H7 pin to the VSS connector.
Do mean Pin 9 on connector H-10 has +12 Vdc?
H-10 is in the engine compartment, H-7 is in the passenger compartment.
These connectors are on the Driver side /Left Hand Side of the vehcle
 

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Yes I meant pin 9 on the H10 connector. Post edited to reflect that.
 
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