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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so Ive got a few questions. I think after realigning the crank and cam that im in need of a valve adjustment. Does that make sense? Before I do it i wanted to know what I should plan for as far as time and materials. I have feeler gauges and Im guessing Ill need a valve cover gasket right? My other question is valve clearance. My haynes manual says .008 for intake and exhaust and my chiltons says .0009- for intake and .0015- for exhaust. How could these be so different and which one do I trust? It seems to me this is a critical adjustment and a manual should be up to specifications :roll: Anyways, any help would be appreciated as this one is a little over my head. Thanks zoos!
 

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Factory is .008 inches for 1st gen 2.6L. The following is from JLEMOND:

SET THEM ALL AT .OO8 OR .20 AND SET THEM COLD ONLY, I HOPE YOU MADE A MISPRINT .0008 IS WAY TOO TIGHT ,THIOS WOULD BE LESS THAN 1 THOUSAND OF AN INCH, AND THEY WOULD BURN IN NO TIME

TO SET THE VLVS CORRECTLY SET THE NO 4 CYL ON TDC AND ADJUST THE INT AND EX VLV AND THEN THE IN ON NO 3 AND THE EX ON NO 2 ,,

NOW ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT ONE COMPLETE TURN BACK UP TO TDC AGAIN AND ADJUST CYL NO ONE INT AND EX AND THE IN ON NO 2 AND THE EX ON NO 3 AND YOU ARE DONE, WHEN YOU ADJUST THE VLVS ADJUST THEM WITH JUST A SLIGHT DRAG ON THE FEELER GAUGE

THE .008 SPECS ON THE INT AND THE .0010 SPECS ARE OK FOR THE EX WITH NEW OR GOOD CONDITION ROCKER ARMS BUT USED ROCKER ARMS .0010 MAY BE JUST A TAD NOISEY ON THE EX HAUSTJUST DON,T GO TIGHTER THAN .008 AT ANY TIME AS THE VLV S WEAR INTO THE SEATS THEY WILL TIGHTEN UP , THAT IS WHY YOU NEED TO CHECK THEM EVERY COUPLE OF THOUSAND MILES UNTILL THEY STOP RECEDING AFTER A COUPLE OF CHECK YOU SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO FOR 15000 MILES THEN DO IT AGAIN JERRY

This too is helpful. viewtopic.php?t=3466&highlight=rocker+torque
 

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2.6 calls for .008 with stock cam. aftermarket cams like the delta want the specs for a 2.3. in .006 ex .008 "Correction"
 

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Delta gave me .006/.008 for the 260.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks shooter. Your always there when I need you. I think ill try it today. You think there a good ill need a new gasket? I have no penny for this one.
 

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Doubt if you need gasket. On the 2.6L it's actually like a long O-ring material. If it isn't leaking now, it should be fine afterward. If it's slightly stuck here and there, just carefully unstick it with something gentle.
 

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I believe most folks go .008 / .010. That's what my machinist set mine to. It's very important to have the rocker arm hold downs (whatever they're called) properly torqued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank man! Wish me luck. I'm going for it. :shock:
 

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It's easy enough you don't even need luck to do it.
 

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Apeiron said:
Delta gave me .006/.008 for the 260.
Thanks, you are correct. I was working from feeble memory. Haven't touched my delta in a while. Just did the stock cam over the weekend.
 

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I just got mine worn in, so maybe it's a little fresher in my mind. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did it! :D Your right, It wasnt as hard as I thought. I was just scared to open the engine up. Thanks guys! Next time i wont even hesitate....
 

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jon90troop said:
Did it! :D Your right, It wasnt as hard as I thought. I was just scared to open the engine up. Thanks guys! Next time i wont even hesitate....
Good job. Can't go wrong by proceeding with caution. Did they require much adjustment and is there any noticeable difference in running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah they were sloppy. I had to tighten them quite a bit. Cut the spacing in half probably. I think its smother running and more quiet. Not sure didnt get to drive it much. Ill follow up after a day of driving. Would this advance my timing? I re-timed it afterwards, it was more advanced than it was before. Feels good not to worry about the valves anymore. That was one of the first things I knew needed to be done when I got this thing and read about adjusting them regularly, I figured especially after aligning the crank and cam. do you think the loose valves means someone adjusted them without it completely at tdc? I moved the crank at least one whole notch from where it was. Anyways, its getting closer every day. I had some stalling on start up tonight so Im trying to figure that one out. I pulled the egr valve and found I could suck a little air through the bottom port, so I put some sealer around the stem and wedged the diaphragm closed. Im gonna run it tomorrow to see if that helps. Im thinking vacuum leak somewhere. The other questionable this is the aux air thingy. Oh well, Its no fun if you dont have to work on it i guess....
 

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There is a large hose that comes into the throttle body on the fire wall side from underneath at a 45 degree angle. Pull this loose and spray a good shot of PB blaster or seafoam deep creep into that and put the hose back on. let it sit overnight and see if the stalling isn't better in tha am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sweet! Thanks man, Ill give that a try :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey I was wondering, would wd 40 work just as well for this procedure? Im broke but Ive got plenty of wd :D Sea foam is a fuel system cleaner right?
 

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Won't hurt. Gasoline's probably better. Still haven't found anything much better than gas for cleaning parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh, one more thing. If there is a slight vacuum leak and its corrected, should I need to reset my timing?
 
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