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I'm planning on adjusting my valves this weekend. What tools do I need and what does the process entail? Are there any helpfull writeups out there?
 

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http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/64

This should help.

A feeler gauge set, a socket set and a few screw drivers. Maybe a new gasket for the valvecover.

Jerry Lehmond's instructions:

Start with a cold engine , first rotate the lower crank pulley until either no.1 cylinder is at t.d.c. (top dead center) or no. 4.
If this is your first time start with no 1 cyl. First, line up the mark on the pulley with the "O" mark on the lower cvr, if this is no 1 both valves will move a little, if they won't move you are probably on no 4 cyl so they should move a little.
Ok if no 1 moves we're ready to start, if they don't move, rotate the crank pulley one more turn back to tdc, now you should be on no 1, adjust the intake valve on 1 and the exhaust vlv on no 1, then adjust the intake on no 2, now go to the exhaust vlv on no 3 cyl.
Now rotate the engine one more turn around to tdc again. Now set the intake and the exhaust vlv on no 4 should be loose adjust them, and then no 3 cyl intake vlv and no 2 exhaust vlv and you are done.
Once you have done this a couple of times and realize exactly what is happening you will usually only have to turn the engine one time once you have it on tdc , set the vlvs to the spec on the hood label , some years vary a little.
Adjust the vlvs with just a slight pull to the feeler gauge and lock the adjusting screw nut , but not too tight as it may change the clearance.
One little tip when you get ready to adjust the vlvs: take the screwdriver that you are going to use and grind the tip a little shorter by making it a bit thicker until it just fits in the adjusting screw real snug, most screwdrivers are a sloppy fit, the screws are a lot easier to adjust and to hold steady, then hide the screwdriver so no one will use it for something else.

Hope all of this makes it clear as mud.

Joe
 

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This is lo tech, but it works. Pull the coil wire. Pull #1 spark plug & stick your finger in the hole. Have the wife, girl friend, buddy etc. bump the starter, or use a remote starter untill compression blows your finger out. Grab the belt and get it dead on the timing mark and follow Joes post. Then pull #4 and repeat. Takes the guess work out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This sounds really low tech. But I'm going to ask anyways. Can I just take off the valve cover and crank it until the valves look as though they are tdc?
 

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Unless your harmonic dampener has slipped on the crank pully, then you should be able to get the distributor cap off and get the timing mark on the dampener on the correct timing mark on either the #1 or #4 cylinder.

Then go from there.

Joe
 

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This is a pretty good thread so I figured I'd ask here and keep the info together.

I have an 89 Amigo factory manual for the 2.3 4ZD1 engine. I also have Alldata and trouble is the factory manual gives different torque specs for the # 9 and 10 rocker arm shaft brackets. Alldata says brackets 1 - 8 are torqued to 16 ft-lbs while 9 & 10 are torqued to 6 ft-lbs.

But the 89 factory manual just says they're all torqued to 16. Alldata is up to date for the 93 but that's quite a difference for the same motor.

I don't know which to trust more: an older factory service manual or Alldata?
 

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Ok, it's a weekend and everyone's either drunk or are now in church. I'm sure someone would have answered me eventually. :roll: However I need to get this done.

This thread answered the question:

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=11323&highlight=rocker+arm+torque

#9 & #10 are not part of the rocker arm bracket pairs. That's why I couldn't figure out why the torque was different and I didn't want to get in there without knowing. The 89 factory manual only mentioned the rocker arm brackets and skipped these. Guess that's part of the revisions in the manuals.

Mid-30's today but snow tomorrow so I want to be done today. :p

 

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Mission Accomplished.

1. Unless I did it wrong, there is very little movement of the pushrods at TDC. It's more like if you can wiggle the adjusting nut a little then you're at TDC. I know not to expect much movement with clearances of .006 and .010 but someone new to this might think there's supposed to be more slack at TDC when in fact there's very little.

2. Loosen the adjusting nut and the screw enough so that you can fit the feeler gage blade in. Tighten the screw so that the blade has a bit of a tug on it. Leave the feeler gage in and tighten the nut till the feeler again has a bit of a tug on it. It's almost like you have to adjust the valve twice because the lock nut definitely will change the clearance, at least on my rig.

The Amigo's ticking is almost non-existent now and it seems to have just a bit more oomph. I can see why it has to be done pretty regularly though because the lock nut really doesn't feel all that tight.

Anyway, no bolts left over, the motor started right up, didn't make any more noise than when I started and I got done before sundown so at least I broke even at worst. :p
 

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what about the 3.2 dohc 98 on up rodeo? I bought the micrometer and have a gap guage...but what about the special tool that the f&*kin haynes manual says I need to have to extract the lfter shims?? can someone point me in the right direction.?
 

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Way Amigo said:
The Amigo's ticking is almost non-existent now and it seems to have just a bit more oomph. I can see why it has to be done pretty regularly though because the lock nut really doesn't feel all that tight.
I wonder if a 'dab' of locktite on the lock nut would solve that problem? congrat's on relieving your Amigos 'tick' :D
 

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Hmm, not sure.

I'm pretty sure it would hold the locknuts in place but figuring in wear I'm sure I'd have to eventually adjust them again. I've never had to loosen anything I've used it on so I don't know how hard it would be to loosen them again for adjustment? Would hardened locktite make a hard to clean mess?

I'm not sure what the guy I bought it from did or if he even adjusted them but on one I couldn't fit the feeler blade in and the other had way too much clearance. Seeing as how loose a few seem, I don't have any confidence that the locknuts hold as well as they should and if locktite would help I'm all for it. I just don't want to make a mess of things though. Maybe next time I'll try some on just one and see how it holds up.
 

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I wonder if there's enough room on the thread to use another nut to hold the locknut in place? I'll have to look next time I adjust the valves. I'm thinking that if there's not enough thread then maybe I can remove the locknut and grind it down a bit to make room for another one on top of it. That way it won't affect the clearance when I tighten the locknut in place.
 

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i don't know on this specific engine, but generically speaking the locknut coming loose is really ^not why valves need adjusting. it's the valve train wear. if the locknut actually is loose, you need to tighten it more.

loctite would require you *thoroughly* clean all all from the threads first.

//bc

edit: bf above inserted, originally omitted. now the rest of it makes sense.
 

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It's not actually loose but it's not much beyond finger tight. I can easily see why the valves need adjusting so much.

I probably could experiment with loosening the adjustment screw and tightening the lock nut so that I can get it a bit more snug without messing up the clearance but the more I think on it, the more I'm liking the double locknut idea. I realize I still have to check clearance, but if I can cut back on the amount of adjusting it's got to be better for the engine.
 

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No locktite needed. That locknuts not going anywhere. Just snug it with the 12 mm wrench. Make sure you hold the screw with a screwdriver while snugging it up. An 1/8 of a turn makes a big difference. Now check the clearance again after locking it down. Believe it or not the tension of the locknut can change the setting a little. The feeler should slide smoothly with no binding but should have a little resistance. Another way to be sure is the old GO or NO GO method. If .006 that should slide in and out ok, but an .008 should not go between the screw and valve. Same for .008 and .010. It's always a little better too loose than too tight. Learn to love that ticking sound. It means that your valves are NOT burning! The whole concept of the gapping thing is to allow enough room for expansion when the engine gets warm. Too tight and the valve doesn't close all the way. That's big time bad news!
 

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I was so preoccupied with tightening the locknut and using the feeler gauge that I didn't keep the screwdriver on since I only had two hands. I basically got the clearance adjusted with the screw and then kept checking clearance as I tightened the locknut. I kept the feeler gauge in and tightened the locknut until the the gauge wouldn't move. Then I backed off on the nut until the blade would move back and forth again. The blade moved with just a little resistance but I didn't try the go-no go method. The locknut wasn't loose but it wasn't what I'd call snug either.

I'll check again this week sometime and see how the clearance is even though I haven't driven it much. But I think a double locknut would help maintain clearance in any event.
 

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98rodeoman said:
what about the 3.2 dohc 98 on up rodeo? I bought the micrometer and have a gap guage...but what about the special tool that the f&*kin haynes manual says I need to have to extract the lfter shims?? can someone point me in the right direction.?
I have tried and failed to ever find this tool.

The other problem is getting individual shims. I am told you can only buy a complete set from dealers and very expensive.

Andrew.
 

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Way Amigo said:
I was so preoccupied with tightening the locknut and using the feeler gauge that I didn't keep the screwdriver on since I only had two hands. I basically got the clearance adjusted with the screw and then kept checking clearance as I tightened the locknut. I kept the feeler gauge in and tightened the locknut until the the gauge wouldn't move. Then I backed off on the nut until the blade would move back and forth again. The blade moved with just a little resistance but I didn't try the go-no go method. The locknut wasn't loose but it wasn't what I'd call snug either.

I'll check again this week sometime and see how the clearance is even though I haven't driven it much. But I think a double locknut would help maintain clearance in any event.
yes if you follow the very detailed and accurate description by squatch you will be doing it the correct way. if you continue to do it the way you describe, the double locknut won't do any good anyway because the clearance between the nut and its surface is still there, thus NO chance of maintaining your hard fought for adjustment.

as to the "dab of loctite"" proposed by tazwegion :: remember that loctite is anaerobic, meaning it needs the absense of oxygen to 'set', so it will stay liquid that way, not harden. and of course you don't want to use some silicone or such that could end up in the oil circuit. PLUS there really is no need if the procedure outlined by squatch is followed.

//bc
 
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