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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok So I don't know how many of you remember the problems I was having in the past. With regards to timing pullies etc. Here's the new problem. The previous owner of our car has put a 2.3 hewad on the 2.6 block. Consequently I cannot find the right timing marks. Does anyone have any ideas before I go and bend valves? I can get her to cough either from the exhaust or from the air filter, so I know I can't be THAT far out. Is it possible that it could be up to 180 degrees out? If I line up the marks, the rotor arm is pointing 180 out. What should I do? Should I move the cam wheel 180 out and try that or will it kill her?

HELP!!!!!!!

Cris
 

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2.3 or 2.6 should make no diff. When the crank is at zero (i.e. both #1 and #4 are up at TDC), the mark on the cam belt pulley is aligned with the stationary mark on the aluminum timing cover which bolts to the head. At this point, #4 cylinder is on its compression stroke.

If you're thinking #1 should be firing at this point, that's your 180 degrees out.

With the belt aligned as above, install the distributor with the rotor pointed at #4 cyl's contact in the distributor cap. That should be close enough to fire it up. If not, you can static time the motor just cranking it over.

You can either hook the timing light to #1 or #4; once the belt's aligned and the motor is turned over, makes no diff.

Just remember when the mark on the cam belt pulley is up, #4 is on its compression stroke; when the mark is down, #1 is firing.

HTH.........ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok well that makes sense. The problem I have is that I don't know which piston I should be timing this to. 4 or 1? The motor is 2.6 but the head is 2.3. Now... When I took the timing gear off, this was something I hadn't noticed until replacing the timing gear. So I have tried to do the timing both ways and all I can get is a cough. I've tried TDC 12 degrees before TDC as per under the hood and nothing. So I am kinda at a loss here as to what to try next. I had thought of shooting it but I don't own a gun. LOL
One thing. I had to remove the vacum pipe from the manifold. Does this need to be revaced so to speak? Or would she fire up without the vacum in the pipe?

Cris
 

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As long as you got the belt aligned right when you put it together, and pointed the distributor to the correct contact (#4), it makes no difference now if you time off #1 or #4.

However, if you did get the distributor 180 out it'll never fire. You can either remove the distributor and reinstall it correctly, or swap the wires around.

This assumes the belt timing is correct.

An easy way to deterimine which cylinder, #1 or #4 is on its compression stroke is to bring the crank to the "zero" mark, then check the valves on #1 and #4. The cylinder which is on compression will have both rocker arm pads on the flat part of the cam. Both rocker arms should wiggle since neither is compressing a valve. The other cylinder will have a valve depressed and only one of its rockers will be loose.

Whichever cylinder, #1 or #4, is at TDC compression, is the one that the distributor rotor MUST point to. Once this is correctly established you can time off #1 or #4.

BTW the firing order is 1-3-4-2 and the distibutor rotates clockwise. So, once you get the spark plug wire for #1 or #4 in the correct place in the cap, the rest will follow.

HTH.........ed
 
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