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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, I just joined the forum this past week. I have been following the forums for help for a while and have always found what I've needed to fix her up.

The History.

Back in 1997, age 15 and addicted to porn, I had a thing for the Japanese stuff. So after a summer of spend my days cutting grass, the nights with my virtual ladies, I came across my first Trooper. 1999 Isuzu Trooper II. 2.8L GM V6. 5 Speed. 137K Miles. $2000. Great deal to me. Not so much for the neighbor.

I named her Gwendolyn. Why you ask. Well, I'll tell you. Gwendolyn was the name of the not so attractive girl I was dating or whatever you call it when your 15. This Trooper was a bit beat up around the edges, and also not so pretty. So she got the name Gwendolyn. And I'm lying. I was looking for a jump start to get in that girls pants by naming my car after her. It did get me a base further but then the battery died. With the relationship I mean. However the name stuck and at least my truck would let me rev its engine whenever I wanted.

Gwendolyn followed me all through college. All the surf trips. All the trips with the buds, camping, snowboarding, and to Waffle House @ 2am. In 2004, I graduated and decided as a big grad its time to step things up. I decided to sell Gwendolyn, to my roommate. For $2000. The same that i paid when i got her. @266K miles, Man was she good to me.

The next day, Gwendolyn II came into my life. Found her in the classifieds for $9k and got her for $7K. 1999 Isuzu Trooper. Oh yeah an upgrade baby!. Power Everything. And an automatic. I felt like i was cheating. With only 98K miles she was practically a virgin. Ive been driving her around since then and have got her up to 207K miles and some change.

Which brings us to Saturday, July the 9th of 2011. (Last Saturday).

That am, I was cruising craigslist and came across an add for a 1988 Isuzu Trooper II. 2.6L 4cyl. Automatic. 136K miles. Doesn't run. Asking $500. On a whim and a breath of nostalgia, I made a phone call. Then I went to check her out 5 mins later. Not the best looking, or the worst. Paint Oxidized. Full of stuff that the owner couldn't fit in his garage. He had recent receipts for a new fuel pump and filter and a new water pump. Also, paperwork on new tires from last December and battery from January. Engine compartment was clean though. Thats all I knew about her before I fell in love. I knocked him down to $200. She was mine.

It was time to name her. The Gwendolyn III. Uh duh. Did you think I would break tradition? Never...

Here she is boys and girls.....


And a view from behind....


Tires, Rims, Hubs...


Engine Compartment......


And on Sunday, I towed her home. Trooper pulling a Trooper. The only thing better is a one behind too to make a Trooper sandwich.

More to come. Thanks For the great forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dang, i tried to get the images to show. can you pm me an example of the code so i can fix them. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Once I got her home. Tried to crank her. No luck. Then posted the following with the following help from Shooter.

mansnorkle said:
I just bought an 88' Trooper. Bone stock with the 2.6L FI. Car would crank but would not start. Checked for gas leaks. Found a leak in the fuel line coming to the FPR. Replaced it. Tested. Good pressure out of FPR now. Tried to crank. No start. Checked for spark out of the Ignition coil. spark from coil to wire. Also spark from wire to distributor cap. No spark to plugs. Replace rotor and cap. Spark to all plugs now. However all are orange instead of bright blue. Will crank but not start. Tested compression on the 4 cyls and all are good. Has a new fuel pump. Fuel tank has pressure.

By searching the forums, I think that I've narrowed it down to 4 things.

In order by cheapest replacement.

1. Coolant Temp Sensor - The one that goes to the ECU, not the dummy light or the Guage
2. Ignition Coil.
3. Ignition Control Module.
4. Crank Angle Sensor.

Any Ideas?

Also, according to the picture on Autozone of the ignition control module, i cant find it. Can some one provide me pictures of where its mounted and where its plugged in? Also how can i test it?

Also, how can i test the CAS?

Thanks

Please be kind as I'm a newbie to the 2.6L
shooter said:
I'm not so sure the ignitor will turn an orange spark to a blue spark. Sounds like a weak coil to me. Scroll down a little and view the black plastic finned ignitor. It's located passenger side near the rear tucked underneath the intake assembly. http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic ... 74393d15ac
Im still working on testing the ICM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Having spark to all plug but being orange made me ponder a bit. Started checking fuses as i cant test my ICM cause i cant find my meter.

Found the following fusible link. This is what feeds it all. Connected by one strand of the wire.


So after searching the forum. I found that its rated 26a. Replaced it with the following.


However I put a 30a fuse cause i didnt have a 25a.

This should do the trick. Maybe will help with the spark? Of course, not. It won't even turn over now. Battery drained from trying to crank/jump earlier. Time to charge.

Had the charger on it for 4 hours and its been sitting on the following for 2hrs. Me thinky that the battery is a shot.


So no luck on whether or not that link will fix my spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So after finding that my battery wasnt worth a damn. I got it replaced at advanced auto since it was only 7 months old. Got the new battery on. Also cleaned up the terminal connectors a bit just in case. Crank but no start again. However it did sound better when doing so.

Next on the agenda to try. New Wire and plug set.....

Here they are in.....



Now that they are all in. Still an ORANGE spark. Stronger than before but not blue. Still would not start.

So I finally got the guts to take off the Ignition Control Module to test and relocate it. It was a fun task. Got the front passenger tire off and got the ICM unbolted. Moved the connector up through to the top of the motor for relocation.

You can see the connector popping out there.


So Autozone and Oreilly cannot test the Ignition Control Module for me so i will have to do it myself. After getting it out i noticed it was really gooey...


Figured it was just buildup. So i was going to mount to the top of the motor and make sure and get a good ground to see if that was the issue. I had to take the little metal clip off that holds the wire to it. Well I undid the screws and this is what was inside......


I pretty sure thats not normal. Maybe dielectric grease? Looks fried without testing it. Any ideas????? Any how the cheapest i can find one is $84.00 from Autozone. Anyone got one cheaper?
 

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Could be though I've seen a few that gooey and they worked fine. Check with one of the guys here selling parts and maybe you can get a good used one on the cheap. Fusible links are standardized and most parts stores should have the correct one. Though 4 amps doesn't sound like much, you're risking frying expensive components with that 30 amp fuse. Plus the burn rate is probably different than the link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
shooter said:
Could be though I've seen a few that gooey and they worked fine. Check with one of the guys here selling parts and maybe you can get a good used one on the cheap. Fusible links are standardized and most parts stores should have the correct one. Though 4 amps doesn't sound like much, you're risking frying expensive components with that 30 amp fuse. Plus the burn rate is probably different than the link.
Shooter, Ive checked Autozone, Advance, and Oreilly parts stores for fusible links and only Advance had some but were 15A. Should i change that 30A to a 25A just in case until i find the correct link?

On the ICM, I pm'd JLEMOND for the part and am just awaiting a response. Thanks.

Forgot to mention that I sprayed starting fluid in before putting in the new plugs and wouldn't start even with that. What to do....
 

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mansnorkle said:
Should i change that 30A to a 25A just in case until i find the correct link?

On the ICM, I pm'd JLEMOND for the part and am just awaiting a response. Thanks.

Forgot to mention that I sprayed starting fluid in before putting in the new plugs and wouldn't start even with that. What to do....
I would change it if I were you. If you have a Honda dealer nearby, see if they have the fusible link. Those are always good items to snag from salvage yards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll go ahead and swap that fuse out. Thanks.

Been trying to find a local junk yard with some troopers but no luck yet.

I also been trying to find 1 snowflake rim to match the 4 that i got. the spare is not the same and ide like them to match.
 

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mansnorkle said:
Shooter, Ive checked Autozone, Advance, and Oreilly parts stores for fusible links and only Advance had some but were 15A. Should i change that 30A to a 25A just in case until i find the correct link?

On the ICM, I pm'd JLEMOND for the part and am just awaiting a response. Thanks.

Forgot to mention that I sprayed starting fluid in before putting in the new plugs and wouldn't start even with that. What to do....
Change the 30 amp fuse to a 20 amp fuse. As Shooter says, the burn rate is different.

If it blows the 20 amp, then go with a 25. But don't leave the 30 in there.

Clean the ignition control module out, really good, with brake cleaner. Set it in the sun for a couple hours to dry out. Then try it again.
 

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Ahhh memories. Makes me remember when I brought my '88 LS home. *sniffle
 

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stusvend said:
Ahhh memories. Makes me remember when I brought my '88 LS home. *sniffle
Yes, yes, yes. Reminds me why I switched to a carb. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Selador said:
mansnorkle said:
Shooter, Ive checked Autozone, Advance, and Oreilly parts stores for fusible links and only Advance had some but were 15A. Should i change that 30A to a 25A just in case until i find the correct link?

On the ICM, I pm'd JLEMOND for the part and am just awaiting a response. Thanks.

Forgot to mention that I sprayed starting fluid in before putting in the new plugs and wouldn't start even with that. What to do....
Change the 30 amp fuse to a 20 amp fuse. As Shooter says, the burn rate is different.

If it blows the 20 amp, then go with a 25. But don't leave the 30 in there.

Clean the ignition control module out, really good, with brake cleaner. Set it in the sun for a couple hours to dry out. Then try it again.
Selador, ive used a whole can of brake cleaner. got maybe 25% of the way. Dont want to scrub at it cause i dont know whats in there. I can see the start of 2 wire connections. Man that stuff is like tar. does not want to come off. Got a picture of a clean one? so maybe i can scrub it out a bit with a toothpick. Thanks.
 

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mansnorkle said:
Selador, ive used a whole can of brake cleaner. got maybe 25% of the way. Dont want to scrub at it cause i dont know whats in there. I can see the start of 2 wire connections. Man that stuff is like tar. does not want to come off. Got a picture of a clean one? so maybe i can scrub it out a bit with a toothpick. Thanks.
I don't have a pic of one. Sorry.

Sometimes these things are filled with something on purpose. Like some kind of resin.

I am wondering if the combination of the chemicals, leaked gasoline, oil, and the heat, caused whatever was in there, to turn gummy.

As for cleaning it the rest of the way... If you didn't catch the brake cleaner in a breadpan or something, as you were spraying it down... Get another can of the brake cleaner. And this time, use the breadpan. LOL

Then use a nylon brush. Toothbrush, or something similar.

You don't want to use a wire brush. Not even brass. But you're going to have to experiment to find a plastic/nylon brush that doesn't just melt in the brake cleaner. LOL

And give us another pic of it now, please.

One last, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If it doesn't work already, what is the worst you can do, make it not work ? :wink:

If getting it cleaned up and dried out makes it work, then you have saved some money.

Worth giving it the old college try...
 

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I just went through something similar to what you are. The ICM is just a transistor. The goo in the ICM is just there to seal it off from moisture. unless one of the wires has become unsoldered from the transistor cleaning it will just mess it up. You will have to repot it with something. The origional goo is most likely a hot melt pressure sensitive adhesive. It most likely was and will ever be sticky. I have actually sold equipment to dispense this very material into automotive electrical devices for "under the hood" appplications. You might get away with replacing it with a thin epoxy resin if you can get all the other stuff off. As far as the ICM goes, it is a solid state device so it either works or it does not. What it does is provide a path for the 12 volts going to your coil. When open there is no current flow through the coil and when closed there is. It is similar in function to points on an old school ignition. I can tell you how to test it but if you are getting any spark at all then it is working and so is your CAS and ECM. The only thing that could be wrong is that it is not properly grounded. Check the wires running from the coil to the ICM to check for high resistance and make sure there is good contact between the ICM bracket and engine ground.
 

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Like I said earlier, I went through this recently. I checked everything and replaced the coil and icm in the process ( I now have a spare ICM and coil). My issue turned out to be two fold but the one you might check into is that the connector in my "spark plug" wire leading from the coil to the distributor had backed into the boot so far that it was not making good contact to the distributor. I had to scoot the boot back up the wire and glue it in place. I suppose your problem might be at the other end so check that too. BTW these were new wires.
 

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Turkey said:
Like I said earlier, I went through this recently. I checked everything and replaced the coil and icm in the process ( I now have a spare ICM and coil). My issue turned out to be two fold but the one you might check into is that the connector in my "spark plug" wire leading from the coil to the distributor had backed into the boot so far that it was not making good contact to the distributor. I had to scoot the boot back up the wire and glue it in place. I suppose your problem might be at the other end so check that too. BTW these were new wires.
The proper way to install a spark plug wire, is to push the boot back. Exposing the clip.

Snap the clip onto the sparkplug, or into the dist cap.

Then slide the boot back down, to form a positve seal.
 
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