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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts

The manual says to use new bolts for this housing. Not sure why exactly.

(There are six M8 1.25 x 16 bolts and two M8 1.25 x 25 bolts each with the flared bolt head style - somewhat greenish gray in color). Any idea what type of metal/bolt/grade to look for to get exact replacements for strength, etc.? Marking on the bolt head is 8 A.

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Oil Pump Install

The manual has a drawing showing how to apply an RTV bead around the oil pump mating surface. It's a bit over-complicated but it seems to basically be saying 'make a continuous, unbroken bead of 3.5mm' around the mating surface. Somewhere it also mentions 'put RTV in these bolt holes/bolts' (don't have the manual in front of me at the moment).

When I look at the old bolts, there is RTV on all of them.

What I'm wondering is... do I squirt RTV in the bolt holes or put it on the threads of the bolts and screw them in?

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Also, when I opened my FelPro engine bottom gasket kit... it contains gaskets for stuff which the manual say to use only RTV on. For example, it has a gasket for the crankcase to engine block, and the oil pump to engine block, etc. I've been proceeding to only use the RTV and not the gaskets. Hopefully, that's OK.

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I just discovered that the manual doesn't mention that of the oil pump bolts to be torqued down, two of the bolts belong to the oil filter assembly which hangs off the front of the oil pump. This filter assembly is not yet ready to install (hasn't been cleaned yet) so I will wait on installing the oil pump until the oil filter assembly can be installed at the same time so the full torque-down can be done.

Also, there is a steel plug (12mm allen key) in the side of the old oil pump and a hole (but no plug) in the new oil pump. This will have to be moved over. Is this plug the location to attach to to prime the oil system before 1st start?

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Lots of mfr's use only RTV to seal the oil pan to the block. ZuZu 2.6 is like that, with its cast aluminum main pan which uses no gasket. If you were to put a gasket in where there's not supposed to be one, it could mess up critical clearances. I recall doing a Cast-Iron-Duke 2.5 in an '86 Jimmy and there was no gasket, just rubber seals fore and aft plus RTV on the rest of the block. That being said, using a gasket on the oil pump flange, if it doesn't change how it fits in the space it's in, ain't gonna hurt anything.

Be sure you're extremely sparing when spreading RTV sealer on critical areas such as the oil pump sealing surface. Very thin bead and you can use a rubber/vinyl/etc gloved finger to spread-out the sealant. You don't want a big gob of silicone oozing out into an oil passage and hardening/blocking.

I've used the Permatex Gold sealer for pans before, it works well. But the Permatex Ultra Grey is a newer product and likely better than the Gold:


Far as priming the engine goes, does the manual have any suggestions on that? I'd think that you could spin the oil pump pulley before you install the timing belt, and that would do a pretty good job of priming the engine. Chuck a socket adapter in a drill motor and prime away!
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Thanks for the ideas!

Just surprised these gaskets were included in the kit since the manufacturer wants it done a different way.

The steel plug is a bit of a pain. Don't know why the new pump didn't come with a plug in place. It's frozen in the hole of the old pump and if I put the pump in a vise it seems like it's really gonna tear up the pump... which I'd rather not do at this point. Not sure if I could buy a new plug from the hardware store.

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A little heat from a propane or MAP torch might help get that plug unstuck. That plug very likely has metric threads.

You could carefully clamp the pump in a vise, cushioned by shop rags or a thin strip of wood on either side. Long as you're just holding it securely, and not crushing it, should be OK.
 
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