Circular cross section would be normal. Use a good lube when reassembling the pipes to keep from cutting the o-rinf.Now on to my next question.
When cleaning up the coolant pipes that reside under the common chamber, I wanted to check my Fel-Pro gasket set to make sure I had the proper o-rings for these pipes. I examined then removed the old o-rings. The gasket set seems to have o-rings of the correct size but the existing o-rings looked quite a bit different from the new ones. The existing o-rings looked wider with a bit of a rectangular shape to the cross section (probably from being squished in the pipes for so long?). The new o-rings look like standard o-rings with a circular CS. These pipes were not leaking in any way. When I went to remove the 22 year old o-rings with a small pick, there was NO elasticity at all to the rings. They were very dried out and tore in two right at the pick location then I pulled them off. It's amazing they weren't leaking.
My question is... are the proper o-rings for these pipes normal o-rings with a circular CS? Or are the OEM o-rings different than normal, circular CS o-rings?
The new gaskets will never be identical to the originals. This gasket requires no extra sealant if the 2 mating surfaces are perfectly flat & true. If the mating surfaces are a little bit off a light coat to fill the irregularities will ensure a seal. If the mating surfaces are far from true then no amount of extra sealant will work. Have you placed a steright edge across the mating surfaces to inspect?So on the Common Chamber halves gasket question... should a sealant be used when installing this gasket?
If you have a drill press I would probably build a jig. Some wood, a piece of PVC pipe and a hose clamp. Or just freehand it will the hand drill.I am at the point of needing to drill the extra holes in the new piston ring lands for the oil consumption problem. I do not want to screw this up.
I have a drill press and am trying to set up a rig to hold the piston (rubber base for the piston to lay on and rubber on top to be clamped down). Because of the piston's shape (cylindrical but not a full cylinder) it may be difficult to hold down. Not sure if it is going to work but if it does, I think it will be a time-consuming process to get the piston into the proper position for each hole (I don't mind spending the time). The slowest speed of the drill press is 540 rpm.
(I do have a variable speed hand-held corded drill which can spin much slower but I'm leery of handheld with the tiny 1/16th size bits and holding the piston is still a problem).
I'm going to use a Dremel with a tiny bit to put a pilot divit in the hole location before drilling.
Any tips for getting this done successfully?
One option is to get a running motor and just swap entire motor. I may have a 2001 with 160k miles.I'm currently trying to separate the crankcase (upper oil pan) from the block.
All allen head fasteners are off and the two nuts are loose. Front main seal cover is unbolted (I can get the upper part of the cover pryed away from the block a bit but the bottom is stuck fast to the crankcase. The mating surface is tight and I can't even get a thin paint scraper in between. A razor or utility knife might barely start to go in between.
Those side bolts on the lower part of the block don't connect to the crankcase do they? I've pushed down on the lower oil pan portion with all my weight but no separation so far.
Any tips for this?
Yes and no.Is it acceptable to use assembly lube rather than motor oil for this?