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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'm currently trying to separate the crankcase (upper oil pan) from the block.

All allen head fasteners are off and the two nuts are loose. Front main seal cover is unbolted (I can get the upper part of the cover pryed away from the block a bit but the bottom is stuck fast to the crankcase. The mating surface is tight and I can't even get a thin paint scraper in between. A razor or utility knife might barely start to go in between.

Those side bolts on the lower part of the block don't connect to the crankcase do they? I've pushed down on the lower oil pan portion with all my weight but no separation so far.

Any tips for this?

Thanks!
 

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98 Rodeo, 4JB1-TC
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I'm currently trying to separate the crankcase (upper oil pan) from the block.

All allen head fasteners are off and the two nuts are loose. Front main seal cover is unbolted (I can get the upper part of the cover pryed away from the block a bit but the bottom is stuck fast to the crankcase. The mating surface is tight and I can't even get a thin paint scraper in between. A razor or utility knife might barely start to go in between.

Those side bolts on the lower part of the block don't connect to the crankcase do they? I've pushed down on the lower oil pan portion with all my weight but no separation so far.

Any tips for this?

Thanks!
How many bolts did you remove?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Not sure of the number... not in my shop at the moment.

Only normal bolts removed were all the bolts for the front main seal cover. All the allen head bolts and also the two nuts off the two studs are removed from the crankcase. I believe all crankcase fasteners are removed but I will double-check when I get out to the shop.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Got the block completely torn down. There are a few cracks in different places on the block. Mostly on the top and underside of the valley. Hoping it will still be usable or repairable. Will be taking it to the machinist to have everything checked out.
 

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Those look like marks from the casting. Are they flush with the surface or can you feel them?
 

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I agree, looks like casting flash to me as well.

You could do a dye penetrant test and if they are really cracks, it'll show.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks for the ideas! I can't get to the block at the moment as it is all packed up to go to the machinist. I will have him check it all out and tell me what the status is.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I have read many topics about drilling the extra holes in the pistons to solve the oil consumption problems. I will be having my machinist drill the holes when he's doing other work. I could do the drilling (and even have a drill press) but I would rather have him do the drilling since he does it every day and if the pistons are damaged, it's on him.

From my reading so far... I take it that there is no official Isuzu service bulletin describing the process? All I have found is a post with a photo from JLEMOND that shows a piston with magic marker lines on it showing the location to drill the additional 4 holes in each piston.

Is there any other post/info I should know about? I want to provide something to my machinist to tell him where to drill the holes (he seems to view the Internet as a vast conspiracy theory... and he may be right!).

Thanks!
 

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I found this old thread where Jerry explains in exact detail where to drill the extra holes. Down to the measurement of the new hole from the old one (18mm).


To be perfectly clear and for the record for anyone who doesn't fully know the issue, the OE pistons through around 2001 or so only had (2) oil drain holes drilled per side, thru the oil control ring land (the bottom piston ring land). This leads to poor oil control and carbon buildup on the rings, which exacerbates oil burning.

The way you can tell if your 3.5 has the old-style pistons, is by which type of PCV valve you have. If the valve just "plugs in", your engine has the old-style pistons. If the PCV valve screws in, then supposedly the upgraded pistons with 4-holes-per-side are installed.

If you have old-style pistons, be sure to keep up on your EGR maintenance, as anything that causes higher combustion temps will make the carbonification even worse.

Some improvement has been made by using engine cleaner additives, such as Gumout Regane fuel cleaner. Worst-case carboned-up solution is to spray a bunch of Mercury Power Tune (outboard motor carbon cleaner) in the intake until you have a mosquito fogger out your exhaust, then pull the spark plugs and spray the remaining contents divided-up into all cylinders, let sit overnight. Bump over starter to expel excess in the morning, reassemble and Drive it Like You Stole It! That should hopefully break loose the carbon. Use a quality-rated diesel oil (more cleaning additives) such as Rotella.

I found some pretty good pictures of aftermarket pistons which have the upgraded holes in the oil control lands - 4 per side. These pics are attached. Very clear views of where the holes are located, and the view from the inside of the piston should make your mechanic feel better about where to drill.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Font Gas Rim
Automotive tire Font Rim Automotive wheel system Handwriting
Font Gas Rectangle Drinkware Nickel


Hope that helps!.............ed
 
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I recall a post by Jerry L indicating that no production line Trooper engines came fitted with the modified pistons, only replacement and 03 3.5L engines. There are no 03 Troopers so it is not likely you have an engine with modified pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks VERY much for this info! In all the posts I looked at... I didn't find that one. On my 2001 pistons, I didn't remove the rings but handed off to my machinist. I did look at the inside area of the pistons and there were only 2 holes per side so I'm sure they need the new holes.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I will be replacing the motor mounts and the transmission mount before reinstalling the engine. The prices for Isuzu mounts are very expensive vs aftermarket mounts. Is there any particular brands recommended as replacements or brands to stay away from?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Nevermind. Upon further inspection, both motor mounts look great. The rubber all looks good with no cracking, etc. The transmission mount is the only one I'll replace.

Thanks anyway!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Transmission crossmember broken bolt problem.

The transmission crossmember area gets a lot of winter road salt/mud and the crossmember bolts were a bit hard to remove.

One of the bolts broke off with about 1/8-3/16" sticking out (the zone around this bolt is very rusty corroded). It has been soaked with penetrant for several weeks. I tried vise-grips, etc. to turn it to no avail and have drilled out the bolt all the way through to a 1/4" hole. I put a screw extractor in to a good depth and tapped it in and a wrench with cheater pipe does nothing except threaten to break the extractor. The rusted threads seem to be fused.

I can certainly keep drilling the hole bigger and try the extractor deeper into the bolt... but I'm getting closer to the threads. I don't want to break the extractor.

If I was going to try to heat with a propane torch... should I be heating the bolt, or the hole or both?

Thanks!
 

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Heat and vibration should help. When I couldn't get the body mount bolts out, I was using an oscillating saw to cut them, and the vibration broke them loose before I could cut all the way through.

As MudOilandGears aid, I've also successfully welded into a bit to remove it. The great could have helped there too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Well, after trying several more times with the same and larger extractor... the extractors just spin in the drill hole and shred the hole. So it looks like I will have to continue drilling it out.
 
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