Posts by Ed Mc.
1 - 5 of 73 Posts
I found this old thread where Jerry explains in exact detail where to drill the extra holes. Down to the measurement of the new hole from the old one (18mm).
www.planetisuzoo.com
To be perfectly clear and for the record for anyone who doesn't fully know the issue, the OE pistons through around 2001 or so only had (2) oil drain holes drilled per side, thru the oil control ring land (the bottom piston ring land). This leads to poor oil control and carbon buildup on the rings, which exacerbates oil burning.
The way you can tell if your 3.5 has the old-style pistons, is by which type of PCV valve you have. If the valve just "plugs in", your engine has the old-style pistons. If the PCV valve screws in, then supposedly the upgraded pistons with 4-holes-per-side are installed.
If you have old-style pistons, be sure to keep up on your EGR maintenance, as anything that causes higher combustion temps will make the carbonification even worse.
Some improvement has been made by using engine cleaner additives, such as Gumout Regane fuel cleaner. Worst-case carboned-up solution is to spray a bunch of Mercury Power Tune (outboard motor carbon cleaner) in the intake until you have a mosquito fogger out your exhaust, then pull the spark plugs and spray the remaining contents divided-up into all cylinders, let sit overnight. Bump over starter to expel excess in the morning, reassemble and Drive it Like You Stole It! That should hopefully break loose the carbon. Use a quality-rated diesel oil (more cleaning additives) such as Rotella.
I found some pretty good pictures of aftermarket pistons which have the upgraded holes in the oil control lands - 4 per side. These pics are attached. Very clear views of where the holes are located, and the view from the inside of the piston should make your mechanic feel better about where to drill.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Font Gas Rim]()
![Automotive tire Font Rim Automotive wheel system Handwriting]()
![Font Gas Rectangle Drinkware Nickel]()
Hope that helps!.............ed
Replacing 3.5L with 3.2L in 01 Trooper - Rebuild
Hi All, I am replacing my blown oil depleted 01 Trooper 3.5L engine with a rebuilt 3.2L Rodeo engine. So with that being said...I am in the process of rebuilding the engine now. I just got the block back from the machine shop, bored .020 over and new pistons. These pistons have the same oil...
www.planetisuzoo.com
To be perfectly clear and for the record for anyone who doesn't fully know the issue, the OE pistons through around 2001 or so only had (2) oil drain holes drilled per side, thru the oil control ring land (the bottom piston ring land). This leads to poor oil control and carbon buildup on the rings, which exacerbates oil burning.
The way you can tell if your 3.5 has the old-style pistons, is by which type of PCV valve you have. If the valve just "plugs in", your engine has the old-style pistons. If the PCV valve screws in, then supposedly the upgraded pistons with 4-holes-per-side are installed.
If you have old-style pistons, be sure to keep up on your EGR maintenance, as anything that causes higher combustion temps will make the carbonification even worse.
Some improvement has been made by using engine cleaner additives, such as Gumout Regane fuel cleaner. Worst-case carboned-up solution is to spray a bunch of Mercury Power Tune (outboard motor carbon cleaner) in the intake until you have a mosquito fogger out your exhaust, then pull the spark plugs and spray the remaining contents divided-up into all cylinders, let sit overnight. Bump over starter to expel excess in the morning, reassemble and Drive it Like You Stole It! That should hopefully break loose the carbon. Use a quality-rated diesel oil (more cleaning additives) such as Rotella.
I found some pretty good pictures of aftermarket pistons which have the upgraded holes in the oil control lands - 4 per side. These pics are attached. Very clear views of where the holes are located, and the view from the inside of the piston should make your mechanic feel better about where to drill.
Hope that helps!.............ed
Do you have a propane torch with a big flame, or a MAPP torch? MAPP burns hotter. Heat the heck out of the surrounding metal and clamp a pair of Vice Grips to the busted bolt, see if it'll move either way after heating. Heat the backside of the crossmember (if you can even get to that side) if it's built such that the bolt will 'see' the heat from that side. Sometimes it helps to give a sharp rap on the stuck bolt, to shock things loose.
Lots of mfr's use only RTV to seal the oil pan to the block. ZuZu 2.6 is like that, with its cast aluminum main pan which uses no gasket. If you were to put a gasket in where there's not supposed to be one, it could mess up critical clearances. I recall doing a Cast-Iron-Duke 2.5 in an '86 Jimmy and there was no gasket, just rubber seals fore and aft plus RTV on the rest of the block. That being said, using a gasket on the oil pump flange, if it doesn't change how it fits in the space it's in, ain't gonna hurt anything.
Be sure you're extremely sparing when spreading RTV sealer on critical areas such as the oil pump sealing surface. Very thin bead and you can use a rubber/vinyl/etc gloved finger to spread-out the sealant. You don't want a big gob of silicone oozing out into an oil passage and hardening/blocking.
I've used the Permatex Gold sealer for pans before, it works well. But the Permatex Ultra Grey is a newer product and likely better than the Gold:
Far as priming the engine goes, does the manual have any suggestions on that? I'd think that you could spin the oil pump pulley before you install the timing belt, and that would do a pretty good job of priming the engine. Chuck a socket adapter in a drill motor and prime away!
Be sure you're extremely sparing when spreading RTV sealer on critical areas such as the oil pump sealing surface. Very thin bead and you can use a rubber/vinyl/etc gloved finger to spread-out the sealant. You don't want a big gob of silicone oozing out into an oil passage and hardening/blocking.
I've used the Permatex Gold sealer for pans before, it works well. But the Permatex Ultra Grey is a newer product and likely better than the Gold:
Standard Motor Products Throttle Body Injection Tune-Up Kit - 1637B
Buy Standard Motor Products Throttle Body Injection Tune-Up Kit - 1637B at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!
www.amazon.com
Far as priming the engine goes, does the manual have any suggestions on that? I'd think that you could spin the oil pump pulley before you install the timing belt, and that would do a pretty good job of priming the engine. Chuck a socket adapter in a drill motor and prime away!
A little heat from a propane or MAP torch might help get that plug unstuck. That plug very likely has metric threads.
You could carefully clamp the pump in a vise, cushioned by shop rags or a thin strip of wood on either side. Long as you're just holding it securely, and not crushing it, should be OK.
You could carefully clamp the pump in a vise, cushioned by shop rags or a thin strip of wood on either side. Long as you're just holding it securely, and not crushing it, should be OK.
1 - 5 of 73 Posts
