Yes
Trooper Engine Rebuild Questions
OK, here's a single topic for my engine rebuild questions.
Tearing things down and disconnecting the wire harness stuff. There is one sensor down by the oil filter which does not seem to have a plastic disconnect (see attached image). It has a rubber outer skin. Does this thing have a disconnect under the skin?
Thanks!
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Tearing things down and disconnecting the wire harness stuff. There is one sensor down by the oil filter which does not seem to have a plastic disconnect (see attached image). It has a rubber outer skin. Does this thing have a disconnect under the skin?
Thanks!
1 - 20 of 96 Posts
Thanks for this... disconnected.
I am currently trying to remove the common chamber. All stuff around the common chamber is gone (fuel rail, injectors, wire harness, vac hoses, etc.). I have removed the 4 nuts holding the common chamber on (the 4 studs are still in place... one of the stud tops broke off... sigh). The entire unit should lift off the studs.
But the whole thing won't move. I have put penetrant around the bottom of the common chamber. I have tried a small crowbar to try to pry it up but nothing has moved yet. I have carefully examined the area and there are no other bolts that hold the common chamber down. It's like it is glued down by the intake gaskets or something.
Any tips to get this loose?
Thanks!
But the whole thing won't move. I have put penetrant around the bottom of the common chamber. I have tried a small crowbar to try to pry it up but nothing has moved yet. I have carefully examined the area and there are no other bolts that hold the common chamber down. It's like it is glued down by the intake gaskets or something.
Any tips to get this loose?
Thanks!
OK, I just tried putting a chain around the common chamber and pulling up with the engine lift. It lifted the entire engine and engine stand off the ground but did not break the common chamber free of the heads. This thing is fused on there tight.
The common chamber is held on by 6 bolts. However... I will encourage you to stop, take a breath & walk away for a moment before you severely damage something important. There is also no need to remove this part at this time. Simply unbolt the intake manifold from the engine. By doing so you will remove the manifold, sensors, wiring harness, throttle body, fuel rail, fuel injectors and the common chamber as one assembly.
Thanks for the ideas!
The common chamber is made up of a top and a bottom section. The top section has 6 bolts that fasten it to the bottom section. The bottom section (intake manifold) has 4 studs/nuts which attach the bottom section to the 2 heads (2 studs/nuts into each head). All the surrounding stuff is gone.
None of the 6 top section bolts have been removed yet. The 4 nuts attaching the bottom section to the heads have been removed. The bottom section (intake manifold) will not separate from the heads. I can clearly see the gasket all the way around but there is no separation happening yet.
I even went so far as to put a chain under the whole common chamber unit and lift up with the engine lift... the entire engine and engine stand lifted up off the ground but the unit did not separate from the heads.
I will try again later.
Thanks again.
The common chamber is made up of a top and a bottom section. The top section has 6 bolts that fasten it to the bottom section. The bottom section (intake manifold) has 4 studs/nuts which attach the bottom section to the 2 heads (2 studs/nuts into each head). All the surrounding stuff is gone.
None of the 6 top section bolts have been removed yet. The 4 nuts attaching the bottom section to the heads have been removed. The bottom section (intake manifold) will not separate from the heads. I can clearly see the gasket all the way around but there is no separation happening yet.
I even went so far as to put a chain under the whole common chamber unit and lift up with the engine lift... the entire engine and engine stand lifted up off the ground but the unit did not separate from the heads.
I will try again later.
Thanks again.
FromThanks for the ideas!
The common chamber is made up of a top and a bottom section. The top section has 6 bolts that fasten it to the bottom section. The bottom section (intake manifold) has 4 studs/nuts which attach the bottom section to the 2 heads (2 studs/nuts into each head). All the surrounding stuff is gone.
None of the 6 top section bolts have been removed yet. The 4 nuts attaching the bottom section to the heads have been removed. The bottom section (intake manifold) will not separate from the heads. I can clearly see the gasket all the way around but there is no separation happening yet.
I even went so far as to put a chain under the whole common chamber unit and lift up with the engine lift... the entire engine and engine stand lifted up off the ground but the unit did not separate from the heads.
I will try again later.
Thanks again.
Looking at the gaskets, and if you are referring to intake manifolds to head, there are 4 bolts/studs per head.
Thanks to all for the guidance on this! I got the common chamber(intake manifold) removed.
There are 2 studs/nuts and 2 long bolts per side (basically, 8 fasteners for the whole common chamber (intake manifold)).
The long bolts pass all the way through the common chamber top section and common chamber bottom section (intake manifold) into the heads.
Thanks again.
There are 2 studs/nuts and 2 long bolts per side (basically, 8 fasteners for the whole common chamber (intake manifold)).
The long bolts pass all the way through the common chamber top section and common chamber bottom section (intake manifold) into the heads.
Thanks again.
Did it separate easily after you found the remaining bolts?
Yes it did!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Currently, I'm in the process of removing the timing belt tensioner.
My tensioner is very stiff and will not compress as it is installed. I see and understand the hydraulic cylinder holes where you compress and put in a pin to hold the tensioner.
Since I can't get it to compress at all while installed... am I supposed to be simply unbolting the tensioner cylinder to uninstall it and loosen the timing belt (is the cylinder going to come flying off when I unbolt?). And then I put the cylinder in a vise and compress and lock with the pin before re-installing?
Thanks!
My tensioner is very stiff and will not compress as it is installed. I see and understand the hydraulic cylinder holes where you compress and put in a pin to hold the tensioner.
Since I can't get it to compress at all while installed... am I supposed to be simply unbolting the tensioner cylinder to uninstall it and loosen the timing belt (is the cylinder going to come flying off when I unbolt?). And then I put the cylinder in a vise and compress and lock with the pin before re-installing?
Thanks!
Nevermind... I found a video of the tensioner being removed on a Rodeo engine which is almost identical to the Trooper.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Currently trying to get the timing belt gear off the crankshaft.
Because of our road winter mountain conditions, there is a bit of corrosion on some of the lower components. The end of the crank has a bit of corrosion on it and doesn't feel smooth. The main pulley came off with a larger puller I have. But it's too big for the grabbing bits to get between the back of timing gear and the block.
I guess I will have to find a smaller puller to get on there. Does removing this timing belt gear usually require a puller?
Thanks!
Because of our road winter mountain conditions, there is a bit of corrosion on some of the lower components. The end of the crank has a bit of corrosion on it and doesn't feel smooth. The main pulley came off with a larger puller I have. But it's too big for the grabbing bits to get between the back of timing gear and the block.
I guess I will have to find a smaller puller to get on there. Does removing this timing belt gear usually require a puller?
Thanks!
Got the gear off with a smaller puller. Wondering what to use to try to clean the corrosion off the shaft for the re-install? Steel wool & naval jelly?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Fine sand paper 320 - 400, maybe then the steel wool. If you use the Naval Jelly, be sure to clean it all off real good. I advise never seize on the shaft and inside the sprocket - and clean the sprocket off real good after installation. Dennis
Thanks for these crank end cleaning tips!
I will give them a try when I get back to that issue.
Thanks again.
I will give them a try when I get back to that issue.
Thanks again.
OK, now I am in the process of removing the head bolts.
I have read a bunch of posts about head bolts and am trying to be careful and cautious as I go. The cams have not been removed from the heads. I'm using a 10mm allen head 3/8" socket onto a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter onto a breaker bar. I'm using the reverse of install order to loosen. I'm applying penetrant to below the bolt heads (acetone + ATF) and have tapped the bolt heads with a hammer.
When starting with #8... it gave an initial crack of release but didn't want to go further. I moved on to all the others and they each gave the initial crack. Now I'm back to #8 and it's not budging but feels like something is about to break and I don't want to do that. I will keep applying penetrant and tapping the bolt.
I don't have a 1/2" allen head socket and if I did, I don't think it would fit onto the bolt properly unless the cams were gone. I guess I could heat the block area with a propane torch but I'm not there yet.
I really don't want to round out the inside of the bolt allen hole.
Thanks!
I have read a bunch of posts about head bolts and am trying to be careful and cautious as I go. The cams have not been removed from the heads. I'm using a 10mm allen head 3/8" socket onto a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter onto a breaker bar. I'm using the reverse of install order to loosen. I'm applying penetrant to below the bolt heads (acetone + ATF) and have tapped the bolt heads with a hammer.
When starting with #8... it gave an initial crack of release but didn't want to go further. I moved on to all the others and they each gave the initial crack. Now I'm back to #8 and it's not budging but feels like something is about to break and I don't want to do that. I will keep applying penetrant and tapping the bolt.
I don't have a 1/2" allen head socket and if I did, I don't think it would fit onto the bolt properly unless the cams were gone. I guess I could heat the block area with a propane torch but I'm not there yet.
I really don't want to round out the inside of the bolt allen hole.
Thanks!
First, tighten all the other head bolts back up (sometimes this takes tension off the stuck bolt). You COULD then try tightening #8 just a little bit tighter, then loosening it. Otherwise, it sounds like you are doing everything else right. Not sure how good applying heat will be as you probably can't get heat to the area where the threads are. Personally, I keep a few SNAP ON adapters around. Last time I broke one of those, they gave me an IMPACT adapter. Note that I have also broken a 1" to 3/4" drive adapter (but we won't discuss how long the cheater pipe was 😁). Time and patience are your friends here. Worse case scenario, you center punch and drill out the Allen head using a bit that is slightly smaller that the shank. Then you use a 10MM or appropriate sized easy out (big sucker) and break the head off - do this with the other bolts tightened. Dennis
Thanks for the ideas!
I got both heads off this afternoon. I did have one head bolt break off below deck in the block. About 1 1/8" of threads left down in the hole. Have to soak it and drill and try to extract. A job for tommorrow!
Thanks again.
I got both heads off this afternoon. I did have one head bolt break off below deck in the block. About 1 1/8" of threads left down in the hole. Have to soak it and drill and try to extract. A job for tommorrow!
Thanks again.
1 - 20 of 96 Posts
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