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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a question. Does anyone have a trick to get those to stay open at speed. After I hit about 60-65 MPH the wind pushes the windows back closed (well nearly closed) and I cant get that much needed cooler air blowing on me. It's gonna be 90 degrees here today and summer aint even here yet. No A/C in the LS and those windows when angled the right way really channel air right where you want it.. even better than the roll down window does. Any ideas to make the mount stiffer or something?
 

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Simple! First, take your door panel off. Next,right under the window, you'll see the chrome bracket that holds the window in place. There is a pivot point there. Underneath that (behind the door panel) is a stud that has a spring and a nut on it. tighten the nut to put more pressure on the spring. That will hold it open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sassee said:
Simple! First, take your door panel off. Next,right under the window, you'll see the chrome bracket that holds the window in place. There is a pivot point there. Underneath that (behind the door panel) is a stud that has a spring and a nut on it. tighten the nut to put more pressure on the spring. That will hold it open.
Thanks sassee. That's just the kind of information and fast response that makes this forum freakin' rock! :D
 

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Red Green says "duct tape" :wink:
sassee is absolutely right about how to do it.

cheers, john
 

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also check the philips screw that holds the hinge to the glass. Maybe a little lock-tite. They tend to come loose with age.
 

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watch that nut on the end. they have a tendency to snap if over tightened. they rust because they are exposed to water when ever the door gets wet (rain or washing) and the threads get boogered up....
 

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If all else fails, a short block of wood jammed in the right place will hold it opened.

The guys are right about how to really fix it. Just be careful so you don't break it.
 

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Holy Jeebus!!!! I gotta try this after work, my 86 LS has the same problem!! Thank you Sassee!!!
 

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cwmoser said:
I miss those little side vent windows.

Wish there was a way to retrofit them onto a 2000 Isuzu Trooper.

Carl
I like them, as well.

Surprising how many people do not like them.

I don't have them on the 93 jimmy. But both the 88 and the 91 troops have them.

BONUS !!!

:lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Selador said:
cwmoser said:
I miss those little side vent windows.

Wish there was a way to retrofit them onto a 2000 Isuzu Trooper.

Carl
I like them, as well.

Surprising how many people do not like them.

I don't have them on the 93 jimmy. But both the 88 and the 91 troops have them.

BONUS !!!

:lol: :lol: :lol:
There are a lot of simple "make sense" features like vent windows and the like that old SUV's used to come with and now they dont. My LC has them too and on the very rare occasion I have the top and doors on it, they are nice to have there.
 

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both old vw bugs I had came with them. I hated them at the drive-through. I never used them, and to me they were just in the way. to each his own, I guess.
 

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When they got rid of em the put tweeters in there place. Maybe more people enjoyed better music over better ventilation?
 

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Sometimes tightening just doesn't get it. I tightened my driver's side up and it just flops. Tried putting a nut and bolt through the hinge to tighten it up. Didn't work either. If all else fails, the rubber gasket has to be replaced. I ended up getting a couple of rubber "feet" that fit a wooden dowel, cut it to length and it gets stuck down in corner between dash and windshield pillar. Props vent window open. $1 was way cheaper than new gasket.
 

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Obviously Sassee's suggestion is the right way but on some you'll find that the hole that the stud fits through is all worn out. At that point, tightening up the nut has no effect as the spring / washer that should tighten against the window channel to apply friction just passes through the window channel.
Mine was like that and I made a little washer (limited space) that helped but didn't solve the problem. I'll have to take another look at the problem, I'm leaning towards drilling out the hinge and replacing it with a bolt and ny-lock nut to put tension on the hinge instead of the pivot.
I make mention of this as it would be too easy to tighten the nut, check, tighten the nut until you broke it off as mentioned not realizing it is having zero effect on the tension.
:idea: Rethinking...no, it was not that the hole was worn out allowing the spring to pass through. The hole was worn out allowing the enlarged shoulder on the window post to pass through! Same results, it was tightening up the spring and washer on the stud without sandwiching the window frame to apply tension.
 

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Airhead rider said:
Obviously Sassee's suggestion is the right way but on some you'll find that the hole that the stud fits through is all worn out. At that point, tightening up the nut has no effect as the spring / washer that should tighten against the window channel to apply friction just passes through the window channel.
Mine was like that and I made a little washer (limited space) that helped but didn't solve the problem. I'll have to take another look at the problem, I'm leaning towards drilling out the hinge and replacing it with a bolt and ny-lock nut to put tension on the hinge instead of the pivot.
I make mention of this as it would be too easy to tighten the nut, check, tighten the nut until you broke it off as mentioned not realizing it is having zero effect on the tension.
:idea: Rethinking...no, it was not that the hole was worn out allowing the spring to pass through. The hole was worn out allowing the enlarged shoulder on the window post to pass through! Same results, it was tightening up the spring and washer on the stud without sandwiching the window frame to apply tension.
In that kind of situation:

Cut a small length of hose that will slip over the stud that the nut tightens down on.

Usually just a piece of rubber hose will do.

If you need something a bit more substantial, get a piece of nylon hose. Or a piece od PEX pipe. Etc...

Slip the hose on. Slip on a washer after that, put on the nut and tighten.

That should finally give you some gription on the vent window.
 

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Selador, I'll have to look at that again. It's been a while since I had it apart but that stud on the vent window just barely fits through the channel. I took a washer and had to grind off two sides of it (leaving more a bar with a hole in it) to fit in the channel. I'm thinking no room topside to add much of anything and anything added to the bottom side is not going to achieve what is needed. Anything added to the bottom side in place of the spring or in addition to the spring is just going to try to pull the entire window down in to the rubber seal further, mucking it up and not really putting any more tension on the pivot.
Ideally, I need to weld up the hole and redrill it, or add a bit of material to the od of that stud to keep it from dropping through the worn out hole. Or...replace that channel that has the worn out hole....again, I'll have to look at it again as it's been a while and not a real priority.
 
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