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Transfer Case rebuild Options for '91 Trooper MUA5

2020 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  SDtrooperKC
5
Looking for opinions on what to do with my transfer case.
I have an MUA5 transfer case (including Revo gear change) from a '91 Trooper with 3.4L Swap. The transfer case ran low on fluid and started making terrible noises, so I replaced it with another transmission/t-case, planning to either change the Revo gears over or rebuild the original T-case. Unfortunately, the seal between the transmission and t-case is leaking (I have tried to vent the transmission - still leaking into T-case), emptying the transmission and overfilling the T-Case. I now have two bad units and need to get it fixed.
I need some parts and advice:
Original Transmission:
1) I have pulled apart the original T-case - the needle bearing on the T-case input shaft (main shaft) were the primary issue. Here is a picture of the needle bearings - the black debris is the bearing housing, and the bearings show signs of heat. The bearings seemed to be contained in the assembly until I took it apart.
Needle Bearings.jpg

2) There is scoring on the bearing collar from the needle bearings - further proof of heat/damage - I strongly suspect this needs to be replaced.
Bearing Collar scoring.jpg

3) There is a divot in the bottom of the bearing collar from the ball there - is this normal? What does the ball do?
Bearing collar ball damage.jpg

4) The idler shaft bearing on the forward side seems to have minimal side to side play (.004") (perpendicular to the shaft), but has ~.040" end play (parallel to the shaft) - I think this bearing needs to be replaced.
5) The idler shaft bearing on the rear side (the sealed bearing) has a small indentation on the seal surface:
Idler Bearing dent.jpg

6) There are some dents in the face of the hi-low synchronizer assembly - are these a concern?
Hi-Low synch assembly damage.jpg

7) As long as I have things torn down this far, I would replace all the seals (front t-case input, rear output, front output and probably front input). Should I also replace any of the other bearings?

Newer (Leaky) Transmission
1) Leaks fluid from Transmission to transfer case - transfer case input shaft seal needs to be replaced (complete tear down of transfer case)
2) When I put this unit in, the front output shaft leaked as well and I replaced it. I am concerned about its condition after having issues with these two seals. (Some of this may be decided if/when I tear this unit down).
3) Would move the Revo gears over to this transfer case if I decide to use it.

Options:
A) Rebuild the original transmission with new parts as needed put into Trooper, maybe replace seals in newer transmission and sell it.
B) Rebuild the original transmission with parts from the newer transmission as needed - then figure out what to do with the remaining parts
C) Replace seals in newer transmission, move Revo gears over - then figure out what to do with the remaining parts.

Any thoughts about any of these plans?
Thanks!! Merrill

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Anyone have an opinion in how to approach this?
Thanks!
sorry for the late reply.
get a input seal from jerry and that will solve the fluid issue.
Rebuild the t-case side. Your detent ball retainer is important that it keeps the needle bearings spinning separate from the shaft. I may have one to 'sell' you if you dont trust that the ball will stay in place with the current marks that you have.
gather up All your needle bearings. Super important and rebuild the shaft and collar. I can get a total count from the manual if you need it. lemme know.
You have some trash in your case which is causing the marks. Inspect everything and clean out anything in there. Could be the ball. Have you found it?!?
Your synchro hub looks fine as long as the teeth are in good shape and the synchro assembly that slides onto it from the shift fork moves freely then you are good to go.

The front output seal is two parts.
One a oil seal and the second part is an o-ring. Even if you replace those, Jerry told me years ago to put a dab of RTV on the key slot and the o-ring to stop seepage.
Jerry can get you a new seal but maybe not an o-ring. Go size up the o-ring you need by carrying the front output flange into an auto parts store. It must be fat enough to stick out a little bit if that makes sense so you can squish it down when you torque it.

Hope that helps.
Ive been into a few of these so holler if you need help.
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Hello Gents.

I know this is an older thread and reviving it might not prove fruitful. But I'm just about at the end of my options to find info. I'm doing a 3:1 low range gear set into an MUA5, which I will be swapping into a 2002 Trooper that had a blown up 4l30E automatic. I have the transfer case all the way down and ready to be built back up. While I have it apart I'd love to replace every seal I can lay my hands on. I'd really like to be able to replace this seal between the transfer case and the transmission that you've mentioned above. The only way I really know to pull it out is to use the ole "run a screw into it and pry it out" method. But before I do that and destroy it I'd love to know that I can source a new one. However, as you know, the seal is mounted upside down, so the only way to read the part number is to commit and pull it out.

I was wondering if any of you still had the info on where to get this seal. If you happened to know the part number or have a link. I emailed Jerry a few weeks ago but haven't heard back.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time.
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Hello Gents.

I know this is an older thread and reviving it might not prove fruitful. But I'm just about at the end of my options to find info. I'm doing a 3:1 low range gear set into an MUA5, which I will be swapping into a 2002 Trooper that had a blown up 4l30E automatic. I have the transfer case all the way down and ready to be built back up. While I have it apart I'd love to replace every seal I can lay my hands on. I'd really like to be able to replace this seal between the transfer case and the transmission that you've mentioned above. The only way I really know to pull it out is to use the ole "run a screw into it and pry it out" method. But before I do that and destroy it I'd love to know that I can source a new one. However, as you know, the seal is mounted upside down, so the only way to read the part number is to commit and pull it out.

I was wondering if any of you still had the info on where to get this seal. If you happened to know the part number or have a link. I emailed Jerry a few weeks ago but haven't heard back.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time.
Have you tried finding a parts breakdown?
Jerry’s house had a lightening strike and took out his electronics.
try to find the seal part number by calling Scott at isuzu parts center in kc
Lorenzo and Mudoilandgears,

Thanks for the replies. I actually talked to Scott at Isuzu a few months back on an unrelated reason (was hunting for an MUA5 rebuild kit... they don't exist anymore). I don't know why I didn't think of that! Additionally, I decided to get wild and do some hunting on Rockauto last night and I think they carry it! It's less than $10 on there and I'm already going to make a big parts order so I think I'm gonna roll the dice and see if it's the right one. Thank you all for helping me along. If it's the right part, I'll post the P/N of what I picked up. I will also hop in to the other thread I started and post pictures. Y'all are great!
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Lightening strikes are no fun. Hope he gets everything sorted and not too much was damaged. Hopefully by the time he's back online I'll be all set.
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