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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all
Currently on a quickie off road trip with some buds and I tore a cv boot right off the bat
Is it ok to continue wheeling with it torn?
 

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The boot wouldn't protect much from physical damage, i.e.: being ripped off while wheeling lol, I'd keep the axle well greased until you replace it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I continued wheeling through some pretty tough terrain, and it was fine as far as I could tell :)

Once again, the Trooper impressed me and those I was with!
Now I gotta buy some CV boots and get good at changing them, cuz this will prob happen more than once!

Anyone know what kinda grease I need to repack it with?

*Edit: Now I see they come with the grease too. Neat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hmmm too late I guess lol
The ironic thing is that I have lots of duct tape in y rig, I never thought to use it
I'm gonna replace it soon, I guess I'll have to clean it out- brake cleaner?

PS anybody used the Dorman "Quick boots"? They are split in the middle, and joined by an adhesive

Sounds easier, but not sure if I trust it
 

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I tried a Dorman split boot with no success. Is a messy job putting the normal ones on but not terribly difficult. On a 2000 if you have not swapped to manual hubs that boot is turning regardless of is you are in 4x4 or not so gets a lot of use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I'm putting in an order for manual hubs as we speak
I didn't think I was gonna get the "quick boots" anyway, just seems like cheating! :)

I'm not entirely sure how to do it, can anyone enlighten me? Did a search, nothing much came up on the first few pages...

I've heard it's not too hard to do, not as bad as the inners
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Vanduker! Very helpful...I'll have to clear some time in my week to do it ugh...no matter what happens I'll pick the coldest day!
 

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The first time you do it plan a few hours per side just in case. I can do them in about 1.5 hrs now including getting out all the tools and clean up at the end. I've done a few LOL.

Split boots suck. The only ones I've heard of that sort of work (can still leak grease everywhere) are the ones that have a ton of little screws holding them together. I use regular Dorman boots and have had no issues with them. They have more pleats and are thinner then OEM boots so they are very flexible. I have about 6 yrs on mine with no sign of problems which includes lots of off roading with 3" lift. But I've had manual hubs all that time too for when I'm in 2wd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Giz!
Pretty much the minute after I posted about the split boots I knew they were crap :)
I'm only doing one side, though, only one is broken
Also I am ordering some Superwinches so hopefully it won't happen again soon!
Are you running 3" of lift with no diff drop?
 

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Yup, 3" lift with no diff drop. When you get the superwinches pick up some blue locktite and some anti seize. Use the blue locktite on the large allen bolts that hold the base on, otherwise they will back out on their own. Use the anti seize on the small screws that hold the cover on. It will keep them from corroding and welding themselves in place. Every time you take one of the screws out, more anti seize before it goes back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
SO I'm going to embark on changing the CV boots by myself tomorrow, and I can't say I'm not a bit nervous...I've never done it before, and I'm still not 100% on the procedure

I'm going to see if my local Autozone rents the band-it clamp tool thing (for clamping the bands, obviously! 8) ), but are there any other special tools I should know about?

Now that I've read the 4x4wire article, I'm gonna list the steps I think I need to take, someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong!

Step 1: Remove wheel
Step 2: Remove brake caliper
Step 3: Remove upper ball joint (looks like a nightmare in itself!)
Step 4: Cut off old inner boot and remove as much old grease as possible (reminder: this is not the broken boot)
Step 5: Remove "circlip" and axle "should" pop out - is this true? is it that easy?
Step 6: Remove snap ring on half shaft and remove half shaft - NOTE: Again, because the inner boot is not torn, I figure I can get away with removing the half shaft as a whole and cleaning it as one piece with brake cleaner or something, rather than remove all the pieces? Can I save myself a step and do that?
Step 7: Remove outer boot and clean while fully assembled
Step 8: Replace boots, reassemble, yada yada I think I got the rest of it.

Is there anything in those very abbreviated steps that sounds wrong? Now that I write it out, it doesn't sound so bad, but nothing ever goes as well as I plan for!

Any tips? Words of wisdom? Warnings? Anything and everything will be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 

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I dont cut the inner boot if I'm not replacing it. Just take the band clamps apart. You can pull it back enough to get to the circlip. You need to remove the balls and cage (snap ring on the end of the shaft) and inner boot in order to slide the new boot on for the outer. Its not a big issue. Make sure you pick up an extra pack of CV grease to re-grease the inner and some extra band clamps to re-clamp the inner boot. I think I re-used the factory ones though because I was careful taking them apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have no problem replacing the boot, in fact I'd rather do it cuz then I'll know when it was done

"Also, a studious reader might wonder why you pull the ball / cage / race apart instead of just removing the snap ring and the whole thing as a unit. This is only so you can clean all the old and potentially contaminated grease from the moving parts of the joint. You could also pull it off the half shaft assembled and use something like brake cleaner to clean the assembly out."

This is an excerpt from the 4x4wire article, which gives me the impression that I don't have to remove the balls and take everything apart, it seems as if I can remove the whole end of the half shaft (whatever it's called) as one piece? Unless i'm reading it wrong.

But if it's not a big deal I won't worry about it, I just want to save myself steps, I've got important things to do tomorrow! :D

 

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You can just remove the snap ring and pull the cage off. I always pop the balls out to clean things better, just takes a few extra seconds. They just pop back in. When you go to put the cage back on it can only go one direction. If you get it upside down it wont go on far enough for the snap ring groove. So, if you cant see the groove to put the snap ring in, turn the cage over. Confused me the first time I did it.

Oh, another tip. When you put everything back together and are trying to put the last band clamp on the inner boot, put a jack under the LCA and put as much of the vehicle weight on it as you can without getting too far off your jack stand. That will help straighten out the CV and make it easier to keep the boot in place while you clamp it. Doesnt work quite as well on lifted trucks but helps.
 
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