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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Starting to get close to having Tippy back on the road,

-As I was putting the engine back together I noticed the bearing in the timing belt idler pulley was starting to go bad after only 20,000 km. Ordered a gates brand one on rockauto which will arrive tomorrow.

-Got all the wheel bearings repacked and the hub seals driven in. Was having trouble with three different aftermarket brands of the rear hub/bearing seals not wanting to drive in to the hub. Then I decided to order OEM ones, becaudr I noticed my damaged OE seals would go back in easily due to a slightly different design. My new OEM seals arrived in under a week and drove in very nicely with no fitment issue at all

-front diff pinion bearings + seal are being replaced at an automatic transmission shop. 3 hours of labor plus parts, should be done tomorrow. I could've gotten a partout third member for quite a bit cheaper, but I like to repair rather than replace

-The new groove for the manual hub snap ring was cut at a machine shop, due to being stripped off by the auto hubs after the snap ring came out on a snowy trail. Using a slightly undersized snap ring (24mm) in the new groove will allow me to run my new Aisin manual hubs while still keeping the OEM cv's

-Painted the Colorado calipers in a bright orange (the can had a red cap that matched my powdercoat color, but orange works too I guess lol). Not like I can even see the calipers through the dinnerplate wheels anyway, more for rust prevention than looks

-Todays tasks will be to repack+reboot the outer CVs as well as put the ABS tone rings back on the hubs, then torque the hubs to the new rotors
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Got the engine all back together and running great. The new alternator puts out higher voltage, no leaks from the new front main seals, oil pan or water pump, and the resealed power steering system should last the rest of the life of the vehicle
After I got it all back together and running i realized I should have put thread locker on the cam sprocket bolts, so I took the timing covers off again to do that. Better safe than sorry since rotating bolts tend to work loose and having those sprockets back off would strip the keys from the cams
Still waiting to get my diff back, hopefully this week I can start putting the front end back together
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Quite a lot has happened since my last post

-got the 3rd member back and sealed to the axle housing, now it's ready to be mounted any time
-decided to drop the exhaust in order to cut out the restrictors, replaced the seeping overdrive pan gasket, installed a new filter, and adjusted the 1st-2nd gear brake band back to the factory tightness (steps: loosen the jamb nut, tighten the hex bit to 40 inch pounds, loosen it back 4 full turns, and retighten the jamb nut)
-needed to order a new gasket for the brake band solenoid housing, which I got from cobra transmission parts
-got the new outer boot kits installed on the CV'S, thoroughly cleaned out the old grease and repacked:



OEM kit with NSK boots and grease (even comes with extra band clamps, retaining ring & snap rings), plus Lisle 30950 CV Joint Banding Tool



Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content




OEM kit, outer (84-94 Trooper, Rodeo, Pickup): https://www.amayama.com/en/part/isuzu/8971097650

Inner (84-94 Trooper, Rodeo, Pickup): https://www.amayama.com/en/part/isuzu/8971097650

Tool: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... pt=1000797

-needed to get some more CV axle grease for the inners, so got some NTN moly grease from the Subaru dealership
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Got the exhaust restrictors removed, very easy with a 41mm hole saw
 

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great work so far...
yup, i removed those restrictors on one of the troopers or both ? cant remember which one, but i KNOW i did remove them :drunken:
and there is nothing better for fit and finish than oem parts....
i had to trim about 1/2 inch off the inner and outer tie rods to get enough room inside the adjuster, when i did the hd tie rod mod on the one trooper...and hardened washers under the castle nuts, the taper on the tie rod stuck thru a bit , not letting the castle nut tighten down properly. drilled out the hardened washers a bit , for perfect fit.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
93trooperpooper said:
great work so far...
yup, i removed those restrictors on one of the troopers or both ? cant remember which one, but i KNOW i did remove them :drunken:
and there is nothing better for fit and finish than oem parts....
i had to trim about 1/2 inch off the inner and outer tie rods to get enough room inside the adjuster, when i did the hd tie rod mod on the one trooper...and hardened washers under the castle nuts, the taper on the tie rod stuck thru a bit , not letting the castle nut tighten down properly. drilled out the hardened washers a bit , for perfect fit.....
Thanks, and glad to say that I'm done most everything that I set out to do
I ended up having to shorten my tie rods just a little bit as well. Using the washer sizes mentioned in this post worked great https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=86764

Here are some more photos:



Brake band solenoid housing gasket, overpaid for shipping on the replacement for this one to get it fast


Put the exhaust back in, the gaskets I got had the bolt holes in a slightly wrong spot and had to be modified last minute with a dremel


Reused my original bearings, they were still in good shape. Repacked with Lucas Heavy Duty polyurea grease, and set the preload as per the workshop manual specs for a used bearing/new seal




Steel braided brake lines from Roberto on Isuzu Trader


Finally, the manual hubs are installed. The new snap ring groove ground at the machine shop, and then a downsized 25mm snap ring worked perfectly to save my OE axle


Missing a crossmember and skidplates




Improved CV angles after the differential drop with a near 3 inch front lift, also did a ball joint flip


Tippy leaves her home for for the past month


Already back to work


Still to do:
-Get crossmember welded (I am keeping things slow and on-road, not hitting any bumps while the front crossmember is off
-Reattach skidplates
-Camber alignment (toe is probably slightly out too, I eyeballed the length of the tie rods I took off and it seems to steer straight)
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
All things completed final list:

-New water pump gasket, much better seal this time with the bolts properly torqued to spec (and new Gates pump)
-New Timing belt (it was only 2 years/20,000km old, but I got a Gates brand one off rockauto wholesale for less than $10, so it felt better to replace the belt and reset my maintenance interval
-New front main seals and cam end plugs
-New Denso alternator
-Power steering flush
-Power steering pump service (Gates seal kit and NSK bearings),
-New power steering pressure line from Gates, new suction line from Isuzu, and new return line
-Seized and difficult to remove power steering pressure sensor was cut out by a machine shop, then I installed it back in my new pressure line so that I could prevent to buying a new one from rockauto at ~150
-Cleaned 28 years of grease off many surfaces
-New oil pan gasket (the pan and oil pickup were clean)
-Drilled out the exhaust restrictors in the y-pipe
-Transmission brake band adjust and new housing gasket
-Replaced transmission filter and overdrive+main pan gaskets
-Performed the heavy duty tie rod upgrade with powder coated adjusting sleeves, por-15 painted rod ends, energy suspension polyurethane dust boots
-New ball joints all around, a mix of genuine Isuzu, Mevotech and Moog brand joints
-Full synthetic 75W90 gear oil
-Por15 painted diff and control arms
-New passenger side control arm/bushings from Mevotech
-Repaired the damaged CV axle groove due to auto hubs, for accuracy I had the groove re-ground at a machine shop letting them use my impulse-buy chinese tripod axle as a reference point for where exactly to place the groove (probably the only use it will ever have
-New CV boots, drivers side has genuine Isuzu boots and passenger side has generic brand made in US boots. All joints thoroughly cleaned and repacked with high-moly grease
-Ball joint flip
-F250 tie rod upgrade
-Front differential 1.5" drop
-Steel braided brake lines
-Dual piston front caliper upgrade

Overall I'm very pleased with the results! Having 2wd low-range from the manual hubs will come in handy. I don't think I'll mind too much having to get out in the snow to switch 4wd on and off. I am confident that these new CV boots should last a very long time with this diff drop and quality rubber, almost felt bad taking the original ones off that were still holding strong after 28 years but now was the time for an axle service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I got the crossmember to fit back on by cutting a notch with an angle grinder. Bit of a hack job, but its only temporary until I can get some welding help. Should be plenty strong enough. Now time to hit some trails!
On another note, the brakes are noticeably improved. The dual piston calipers with the steel braided lines make a difference for sure! Writeup for the caliper upgrade will be posted within then next couple weeks

 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Went offroading with a nearly identical 93 trooper!




Week later got rear ended by an F150


Guy pushed me put into oncoming traffic and then proceeded to continue gassing it into this Chevy, completely totaling it


Got a rear door and bumper from my parts trooper


Got the door painted in the right colour and coated the bumper in flexible bumper paint




And all fixed!


In other news I am now the proud owner of a totally leak free trooper, since I got the shift shaft seal leak fixed by a transmission shop for pretty cheap

My uncle got me a JDM license plate


Discovered that my rear calipers had seized after doing river crossings on our offroading trip

Seems like another benefit to the Colorado calipers is a much better sealing dust boot design for the slide pins

New slide pin from Isuzu to repair the passenger side rear caliper which wasn't seized quite as bad, and got reman caliper for the drivers side


Also replaced the rear rotors and parking brake shoes at the same time
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Enemigo said:
What's the rig to the left of yours in the group photo?

Nice repair work, but the way.
Thank you!
In the group photo to the left of me is @trooper.yyc on instagram and to the left of him is a 1986 Volkswagen Iltis, Canadian army surplus 4x4s that were replaced by Mercedes G wagons in 2003
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Tippys been running great (dare I say perfect) lately! Yesterday was maintenance/winterization day

Tasks completed:
-changed oil, replaced the 15w40 Rotella T5 semi-synthetic with 0w40 Nemco MS-X semi-synthetic for better cold weather performance
-retorqued the oil pan fasteners, stopped a slow leak that developed near the back of the pan
-flushed the limited slip differential clutch pack with ATF and replaced gear oil with synthetic 75w140 with new drain/fill plug crush washers from Isuzu
-Greased driveshafts and tie rod ends with moly lithium grease
-Installed a better quality oil pressure line for my gauge (twice the length to do a cleaner routing and a strong braided line rather than the flimsy vinyl one I had prior)
-Regreased the rear caliper slide pins after 3 months (wow the grease in those rear calipers does not last long at all, no wonder they are prone to seizing
-Tire rotation
-Tightened the parking brakes (left them slightly too loose after replacing the shoes a few months ago)
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Did an oil change with 0w40 semi-synthetic and replaced a transmission cooler oil line that seemed to be seeping from somewhere

Been getting a Code 32 again lately, the EGR Valve has been getting stuck closed sometimes on cold days. After 29 years and 257,000 kilometers, it's time to replace it.

Got a new OEM (Denso) EGR valve from amayama.com for much less than what the aftermarket ones are going for on Rockauto:



Very easy install on the DOHC:

 

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Yeah, that's a cinch as long as the pipe comes loose!
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
Got an oil analysis done on my last oil change to test for fuel dilution again. This time I drained it after about 500km of steady highway driving (4250km total) , and what do you know, no fuel dilution this time!



This confirms the fuel dilution issue i was having a while ago was mainly caused by my driving habits, ie short drives (2km) to school and work in cold weather, with not enough extended heavy driving afterwards to burn off the excess gasoline. I am still very glad that I got the fuel injectors refurbished and put a new pressure regulator in, as that has majorly helped performance, much better hot starts and noticeably improved fuel mileage.

The 3.2 seems to do well on this 0w40 diesel grade semi synthetic, wear metals are very low. In some aspects it is sort of an old-school oil, with no moly and high zinc/calcium/phosphorous, with a somewhat outdated API SJ rating (no moly additives means it can't get the "fuel saving" certification that SL and newer oils get). However in other aspects this oil is clearly using new technology - it is unique on the market as being the only 0w40 semi-synthetic available. Normally that grade is only available in full synthetic, however, new chemistry in Viscosity Index Improvers now allow manufacturers to make a semi synthetic with a very high viscosity index. The downside of that being the VII molecules tend to shear rather quickly, as you can see in the report it has lost a decent amount of viscosity in a relatively short change interval. Run it too long and in theory it would shear back down all the way to the 0 weight base oil they started with. However, with keeping oil changes under 5000km I believe this is the perfect winter oil for Tippy. Because I've noticed leaks start to happen on full synthetic but no leaks on semi-synthetic, I avoid full synthetic for that reason. High levels of detergents keep the internals nice and clean, and 40 weight at operating temps keep my oil pressure within factory specs at all times.

ALSO...

Got this tailgate emblem for a Christmas gift and finally got a warm-ish day for me to put it on. Still warmed up the panel with a heat gun before applying in order to ensure the best adhesion possible (also cleaned thoroughly)



 
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Got an oil analysis done on my last oil change to test for fuel dilution again. This time I drained it after about 500km of steady highway driving (4250km total) , and what do you know, no fuel dilution this time!



Its awesome that people still do this. I have not sent mine off, but many others have on BITOG and I fully trust my choice to be running castrol edge high mileage 5w30 in both of my ole girls. This is a great writeup man. Tippy has come a LONG way from when you got her !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Thanks man!! She sure has, and I'm confident Tippy has many years of service left now
 
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