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the one pic of your temp gauge is about where both my troopers run for temps....
good cross-over for the front calipers....good used ones are hard to find, i 've had two remans go leaky on me...
i bought an ebay set of drilled / slotted rotors and ceramic pads front /rear ...this trooper stops really well.

and thanks for the tip on the injector guy ....brenda runs smoother, easier on fuel... :D
 

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That is some VERY interesting info on the 2005 Colorado dual-piston calipers; it means that for anyone doing the "Big Brake" upgrade to a Gen-I Trooper, they could use the 2-piston caliper as well. WOO HOO! Should be a drastic improvement over the stock Gen-II single-piston caliper.

Any changes required to the brake hoses? That's about the only thing I can think of. Trimming dust shields sounds Easy Peasy, break out the Dremel and a cutting disk!

I guess it might be time to put a Big Brake Upgrade Upgrade" on my list of things to do to my 3.4 LS. I already have Gen-II calipers and larger-diameter drilled and slotted rotors in the front and the stopping power is excellent.

Thanks for that great tip, maybe you could do a separate posting on that, and the Mods could make it a "sticky".............ed
 

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That is bloody cool! You wouldn't think 2004-2008 brake calipers would fit on a car that old.

Then again, Isuzu has not changed the design of the front wheel hubs since the gen 1 trooper. even in a brand new D-max, you still have that silly arrangement where you need to undo the wheel bearings to change a rotor... :evil:

Wouldn't be surprised if they haven't changed their brackets, either.

Either way, i know what I'LL be doing on my next brake job! >:)
Should we sticky this thread to keep this information around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Lots of interest in the brake upgrade it seems! I got the idea from a couple posts on the Isuzu Trader Facebook group from people who had successfully installed them on their 2g trooper.
I'll be sure to make a separate thread with plenty of photos and a proper writeup for the Colorado caliper swap, once I have it completed. I'll leave a link to the thread here as well once I submit it. Thanks for checking out my thread guys!
 

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I was already planning on doing this, then I hit a dog today and felt like there could definitely be more stopping power. On my way back, I just laid on the brakes on the street and it was a pretty poor performance. This is on the soon-ish list now for sure.

Dog is fine, by the way. I came to a stop at the same time as I made contact. Then he trotted out from in front of me like nothing happened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Update on the Chevrolet Colorado dual caliper brake upgrade:

Another part that you will need to buy in order to fit the Colorado calipers on 2nd gen troopers is the brake line banjo bolt.
Just confirmed, Dorman #13940 is the correct banjo bolt for the Colorado calipers (the earlier Isuzu calipers have a fine thread that doesn't fit their later caliper design)
The mount bolts are also different and are GM # 11609768 (but probably easier and cheaper to just find the correct bolts at a fastener supply store)

 

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sno said:
Update on the Chevrolet Colorado dual caliper brake upgrade:

Another part that you will need to buy in order to fit the Colorado calipers on 2nd gen troopers is the brake line banjo bolt.
Just confirmed, Dorman #13940 is the correct banjo bolt for the Colorado calipers (the earlier Isuzu calipers have a fine thread that doesn't fit their later caliper design)
The mount bolts are also different and are GM # 11609768 (but probably easier and cheaper to just find the correct bolts at a fastener supply store)
Good Info!

Dorman 13940 Banjo Bolt, $3.18 each at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-1394 ... B000C5G2Q4

11609768 bolt, cheapest I found was on eBay ($7.09 each shipped):

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 8&_sacat=0

If the local GM Dlr has the bolt in stock, the list price is around $5.28 each.

If you find out the size of the bolt, let us know. A substitute bolt would have to be high-strength, to be safely used as a caliper bolt.

McMaster-Carr would be a good place to look, once we know what to look for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Making good progress on Tippy! The water pump gasket was definitely the cause of the coolant drip. The ACdelco water pump itself is still perfectly good after 20,000 km but im putting a new Gates pump in anyway. Tomorrow I'll start pulling the front main seals and cam plugs. Took nearly a full bottle of superclean to get the block degreased! Also dropped off my power steering pump at Hydra Steer to have a new seal kit and bearings installed.
 

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Re: Colorado dual-piston calipers and brake lines; for those of us who won't be running custom braided lines, which stock lines would work on a Gen I Trooper? Gen I, Gen II, something else? Does the Colorado-spec banjo bolt fit the stock ZuZu brake lines?

IIRC the original "Big Brake Mod using Gen II calipers required use of Rodeo brake lines due to the connection angles.

TIA............ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Ed Mc. said:
Re: Colorado dual-piston calipers and brake lines; for those of us who won't be running custom braided lines, which stock lines would work on a Gen I Trooper? Gen I, Gen II, something else? Does the Colorado-spec banjo bolt fit the stock ZuZu brake lines?

IIRC the original "Big Brake Mod using Gen II calipers required use of Rodeo brake lines due to the connection angles.

TIA............ed
I'm not really sure which lines would be compatible between the Colorado calipers and the 1st gen hardline coupler. It may be worth pulling a 2nd gen trooper brake line from the junkyard to confirm that it will fit your 1st gen, and if it does i think it'd likely be the right length for the Colorado calipers. Sorry I can't be of more help, I've only heard of people installing them on 2nd gens but if you make a post on the Isuzu Trader Facebook page there's a good chance someone could give you better info
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Thoroughly degreased the front of the block


Pulled the front mains a couple days ago and the Lisle seal puller made it easy without any risk of leaving gouges. Got the front cam plugs out easily, new ones pressed in with some addl copper rtv as sealer. Saw what I was up against trying to pull the rear cam plugs, and instead cleaned them up very thoroughly and laid a nice fat bead of ultra copper RTV on the cam plug retainer plates (the recall part), then reinstalled the plates in order to have a seal formed between the plates and the cam plugs

Got my power steering pump back from Hydra Steer with all new seals and bearings installed. Although the bearings weren't noisy or loose, with the new bearings installed the pulley turns much more "firmly", like a new PS pump would.

Since my cam/crank seal driver kit is delayed shipping, I've started disassembly on all the front end work.
Today's progress:
-Hubs removed and used an impact screwdriver to get the stubborn philips screws in the bearing nut retainer plate out
-broke loose all upper and lower ball joint tapers
-broke loose all steering joints and fully removed center link / tie rods
-removed 1 side abs sensor
-removed 1 side brake caliper

I've stopped for the day because the brake caliper bolts on one side aren't coming off with my breaker bar. Remiving the ABS sensor is fiddly so ill continue tomorrow. May require a torch and or powerful impact gun for the stubborn caliper, neither of which I have. Been making daily tool runs and it looks like I'm about to do another one tomorrow morning!
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Got the stubborn caliper bolts loose. Had to jump on my breaker bar
Got the abs sensors disconnected, knuckles removed and im going to repack the bearings tomorrow
RH upper control arm removed to be replaced with a new one from mevotech, just need to discinnect the brake line to get it fully out
Now just need some vise grips and a 10mm crowsfoot wrench in order to get the brake hardlines disconnected, because my regular open ended 10mm wrench will strip it for sure

On another note, the mount bolts needed for the dual piston caliper upgrade are M14x2.0 thread pitch, 30mm long under the head, grade 10 steel

Tomorrow will be dropping the suspension crossmember and oil pan, cleaning the oil pickup screen, new gasket for the oil pan then prettymuch ready to install the diff drop. I still need to get the crossmember modified to clear room for the 3rd member once dropped which may prove to be the most annoying part of all this since I can't weld and need to find someone to do it right

Still no sign of my cam/crank seal driver kit that was supposed to be here a week ago, and UPS says it hasn't even shipped yet... Talked to my neighbor who is a retired mechanic and he says he always just tapped in shaft seals with a socket, so if the seal driver hasn't arrived by the time I have all the front end work done ill probably just borrow some large sockets from him. I'm just worried I won't get them in straight but I suppose if I'm real careful it should be fine.
 

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Does your neighbor have a welder? Even if he doesn't, you can do all the cutting on the cross member, cut out a plate to weld in place, and bring it to an exhaust shop or something. I bet they'd do it for pretty cheap.
 

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sno said:
On another note, the mount bolts needed for the dual piston caliper upgrade are M14x2.0 thread pitch, 30mm long under the head, grade 10 steel
Good to know! McMaster-Carr has zinc-chromate-plated Class 10.9 high-strength M14x2.0, 30mm hex-headed bolts, package of 10 for $13.10 plus shipping. A better deal than the GM bolts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/90854A256/
 

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i made a dedicated crank seal tool installer for my isuzu....a chunk of pipe with the diameter that is just smaller than the seal, deeper than the crank snout stick-out, and then welded a piece of flat stock on the one end for hammering. might have a hard time finding a socket that deep, that diameter to fit...i know i did....
always made my own seal installers....and as for seal removers, i use a small screw driven into the face of the seal, then a trim removal tool for the leverage / prybar. or even pliers. easy peasy. i do have an actual seal remover tool, but its only good for open bores...

i installed new rear cam plugs when i had the cams out...put the rtv in place, install cam plug seals, then hold them in place and tighten down the cam caps
then install the recall plates.

i am a ''jack of all trades, master of two'' kind of guy. :roll: to the point where now if people ask if i know how, i play dumb...pick and choose my battles...oh wait i own an isuzu :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
93trooperpooper said:
i made a dedicated crank seal tool installer for my isuzu...
Thanks for the info on that, may need to end up doing something similar



Here's a comparison between trimmed vs untrimmed right side dust shields in order to fit the Colorado calipers. I cant see any way other than pulling the hub/bearing assy in order to do the proper trimming. Used a dremel

Making progress, slowly but surely. Got a seal puller, race/bearing driver and brass punch set from princess auto for the bearing replacement/ repack. The races and seals seem pretty stuck in there but I am confident ill be able to get them out eventually
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Last bump for the next few days since I'm going back to my regular work hours for a bit. Took me a while longer than I intended, but got the diff fully removed! Tomorrow after work I am gonna start degreasing and scrubbing EVERYTHING under the front end, so that I can paint it all with por15.
Got the bearing seals out but the races are being real stubborn. My old bearings (factory OEM) look totally fine so ill probably just repack them and reuse the old races, then just stick to the bearing maintenance interval of a repack every 30,000 km
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Got the heavy duty tie rods assembled just gotta shorten them a little bit since I ran out of adjustment room and they might just be slightly too long for my medium track width. Powder coated adjusting sleeves as well as the front bash plate in the same color. The dust boost are Energy Suspension polyurethane boots.



Got the oil pan out and the pickup screen was totally 100% clean. Time for a new gasket

Shaft seal driver kit will be here by the 25th, so I should have the engine reassembled relatively soon now
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Got the cam and crank seals driven in nicely with the tool



Got the oil pan gasket replaced. The oil pickup screen was totally clean and no sludge in the pan.



Discovered the source of the squeal in 4wd above 40 kmh. It's the outer pinion bearing on the front differential. When I turn the pinion flange manually it makes a nasty, gritty grinding noise from the flange which is almost certainly a bad outer bearing.
Absolutely no shiny bits, and the oil looked brand new and was right up to the fill plug the first time I drained it. My dad had the dealership do the break-in fluid on the entire driveline. But there's some rusting on the main gear that suggests maybe there was some water contamination in the diff at one time. The breather hose and port was fully intact and it was owned my parents who only used the 4wd for snowy roads in the winter, so although it seems unlikely, the noise seems to be a damaged rear pinion bearing. My guess is perhaps the couple kilometers I drove with a bad front u joint were enough to damage the rear pinion seal enough to allow snow (which tends to get packed above that front skidplate) to melt into the rear pinion bearing past the seal.

Sprayed it with some wd40 to prevent any further surface rusting of the gears while it's sitting on my bench, then on Monday I'm dropping the 3rd member off at a diff shop so they can do a proper inspection and perform the repairs needed. I don't want to mess up the preload and dont even have an impact gun to get the pinon nut off
OEM pinion seal and bearing will be here in under a week

 
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