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yup, typical ripped /torn/ damaged intake tube....good luck finding a used one. both my troopers suffer from that issue- was fixed for $20 at a friends muffler shop. cut out the bad section, grabbed a chunk of exhaust pipe, and stretched it until it was a snug fit, installed that in place of the broken section, secured with hose clamps.
my one trooper has a k&n, the other oem paper filter....the one with higher miles has the k&n, and has more ''pep'' in her step vs the lower mile , oem paper filter trooper....hmmm
nice intake mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Time for some updates!

As promised here's some photos from this summer's camping/offroading trip

We got ourselves down a trail we probably shouldn't have gone down, had to chop down a couple trees to get through (narrow track width helped) and found ourselves a big secluded campsite in an amazing location with a waterfall nearby. It turned out our campsite was only seperated from the nearest road by a shallow river crossing, a drive up a rocky steep section, and then 5 mins in low range jumping stumps across a clearcut, which made our way out much more simple than the way we came in

















Other Updates:

Installed a flex-a-lite pusher fan in front of the transmission cooler and AC condensor prior to the trip - helpful for extended low-speed crawling and getting higher efficiency out of the AC

Replaced the little blue AC switch light (P/N 8-97115-090-0).
For some reason I loved this blue light as a kid.
The catalogue shows this part as being incompatible with my 93 trooper but that is incorrect, its a direct fit for troopers with the AC button
To replace it (on a 92-95 trooper) remove the main dash panel, unscrew the HVAC controls, pull the controls out enough to get access to underneath the AC button, and with a flathead or very specific size phillips you just unscrew the old bulb and screw the new one back in

A few weeks later dealt with a running hot issue that was caused by a faulty/bad quality radiator cap. Replaced with one from Subaru, thread here: https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=144903


New sway bar brackets from JLEMOND went on, regreased the poly bushes from Siberian Bushing and also POR15 painted a few bits!






Today got a very specific type of oil that I have been trying to find for quite a while, Nemco 0w30 semi-synthetic, with diesel grade additives. The perfect oil for Tippy! 0W30 for the -35 degree cold starts here in Canada (as well as the Isuzu TSB recomending 0w30 for the 3.2L to reduce valve noise, even though I dont have much ticking it should still have some benefit), Semi-synthetic to reduce oil leaks (she leaks about 2x as much on full synthetic) and a diesel grade additive package, similar to rotella with lots of detergents and good antiwear!

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well, its been a few months of mostly trouble free trooper daily-driving, regardless I have a few updates for you guys!

Tire rotation: had the tires rotated and the alignment checked. The right side camber is out by 1.5 degrees

Transmission warmer: Installed a 75w heating pad onto the transmission pan. Plugs in along with my block heater and battery warmer, greatly improves shifting on cold mornings and significantly reduced trans. warmup time

"Fixed" the 4 wheel ABS: Turns out that knuckle i replaced last year also had the faulty ABS sensor in it. Just for the hell of it, decided to plug the ABS fuse back in and what do you know, the ABS works perfect now!! It has been a big help this winter with lots of low traction stopping on ice. Saves me from having to worry about pumping the brakes. I am pretty impressed with how effective the ABS system in this trooper is. Now we'll see which feature breaks down first: AC, heater, cruise control or ABS. So far all are working perfectly

Ripped flex pipe repair: the skid plate bent and the flex pipe ripped in my last wheeling trip. Got that fixed at an exhaust shop who put spacers between the frame and the bent front skid plate to help it clear the flex pipe.
Also had the O2 sensor replaced at the same time

Had the AC recharged because I found a shop who do a full AC flush with new compressor oil. The compressor on Tippy still works good, but last summer started making a sort of rattling noise, which seems to have been majorly reduced by the new oil and refrigerant.

My diff breather was completely clogged, so I put a coffee filter over the hose end and secured it up above the frame. Still need to check breathers on the front diff and tcase

The biggest problem right now: I am still getting gasoline in the oil, after 1300 miles on my 0w30 OCI I was at 3% gas contamination and viscosity down by about 1/5. Not good!! Changed o2 sensor since maybe it was running it rich, it seemed to be overly rich on cold starts sometimes. Time will tell if that was the fix, but I don't think it was... next step will be another compression test and a leakdown test
I am pretty stumped with this one as the injectors were all refurbished alongside with the FPR being replaced last summer during my big multi item service. Last year tippy was compression tested and is well within spec with all cylinders in 10 psi of each other. It makes good power and doesn't burn oil.
I think the gas contamination may be partly because of my driving habits, because it only takes me 5 minutes to get to work and the engine doesn't have a chance to get warm enough to burn off the excess gasoline. However, after im done work I take the long way home or grab my dog and go to the park about 20 mins away, always making sure that the engine has a chance to run at full operating temp for a while, at least every other day. The majority of my mileage is still highway.
I've gone back go using amsoil upper cylinder lubricant to hopefully reduce the wear that having excess gasoline entering the crankcase can cause. Thankfully, my last oil analysis showed much lower lead levels (bearing wear) than the first time I tested it for gas contamination. It also showed much less silica dust levels, so my Honda S2000 paper cone filter is doing well.

Switched from 0w30 to 0w40 (Nemco semi synthetic again) and my hot idle (750 RPM) oil pressure went up from 11-13 to 14-16 PSI, measured with a mechanical gauge

New to-do list:

-Reseal the power steering pump: A slow fluid leak is killing my alternator. Maybe will have the alternator rebuilt at the same time?

-Door latch: rear left door latch does not work from the inside. Linkage disconnected somewhere?

-Lock actuator: rear left door lock actuator does not raise or lower with the other 4 doors. Broken solenoid, or just a snapped linkage?

-Brake band adjust: a transmission maintenance item that I have not done yet. Will be performed alongside another filter change and drain and fill. May need to take the exhaust down for this one
 

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more than likely the door lock actuator is n/g....gears get stripped inside, its a square or rectangle box , cant really remember....
but princess auto ( you should know that place :lol: ) has generic door lock actuators for cheap, sometimes on sale for $9
comes with extra rods and clips, can hook it up either piggy-back to the oem rod, or completly remove door module and install aftermarket actuator in its place, directly hooked up to the door latch lock mechanisim.

might have pics in my rebuild thread.

my one trooper i replaced the rotten flex-pipe with a straight chunk of pipe. also knocked out the restrictors in the pipes.

brenda is leaking p/steering fluid onto the alt, as well as a recent steering box leak.... :roll: steering box is slopped out, no amount of adjusting will tighten it up, will just replace box , and pump at the same time.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Have a whining noise from the passenger side steering knuckle when 4wd is engaged. My knuckle seal is bad, which has most likely caused the small knuckle bearing to go bad as well. The auto hubs are acting up and not always wanting to unlock, the year old ACDelco lower ball joint boot has already ripped, and the original CV axle boots are near tearing. Additionally, the alternator is almost certainly failing, making a loud bearing squeak under higher load, and dropping below 12v intermittently. The stripped off splines on the passenger side CV axle wont allow me to seat the larger snap ring for the aisin manual hubs, so I will be sourcing a junkyard OEM axle and re-booting it with an inner and outer OEM boot kit.

For the above reasons, I have just made a few parts orders including a large order of OEM parts direct out of Japan

93trooperpooper said:
more than likely the door lock actuator is n/g....gears get stripped inside, its a square or rectangle box , cant really remember....
but princess auto ( you should know that place :lol: ) has generic door lock actuators for cheap, sometimes on sale for $9
comes with extra rods and clips, can hook it up either piggy-back to the oem rod, or completly remove door module and install aftermarket actuator in its place, directly hooked up to the door latch lock mechanisim.
Thank you for the tips on that. I was very close to including a new actuator in my OEM order, will try to find that princess auto one or junkyard replacement instead
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Edit: So now that the temperature is closer to -20 than -30, there is no more coolant splashup happening. Seems to be something that only happens in extreme cold and something that iirc sort of happened last winter as well. My oil cooler lines hose clamps were slightly loose so i tightened those down as well

Coolant leak from somewhere, can't figure out where. I think I did a poor application of silicone when I installed my new water pump and it may be leaking now. Anyone whose dealt with a water pump leak on a 3.2 does it splash and spray up all over the engine bay from the fan or just drip out the bottom? It seems to be leaking intermittently and not when pressurized , this morning the engine bay looked like itd had a bottle of mountain dew exploded in it but after cleaning up the mess, getting it hot again and driving it for longer there was no coolant splashup. Spend a good 30 mins looking everywhere so see if I can find the source of the leak, and the only place that coolant is forming new drips (very slowly) after I wipe them off is the front lip of the oil pan thats under the timing covers
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My Accord will be coming out of winter storage soon, so Tippy can rest and I can work on her for the first half of this summer. Then I've got another wheeling trip planned and a long winter season of daily driving after that!

Parts ordered

Rockauto order due to arrive tomorrow:
DENSO 2100414 Alternator
GATES 348419 Power Steering Pump Seal Kit
GATES K040378 Premium alternator belt
GATES 363040 Power Steering Pressure Hose
NATIONAL 710168 Wheel Seal
NATIONAL HK3016 Knuckle bearing
TIMKEN NP654538 Wheel bearing
TIMKEN NP177400 Wheel bearing
AISIN FHG001 manual locking hubs (X2) [actually had these since Christmas but unable to install due to axle spline damage]

Amayama (OEM) should arrive around end of April:
Isuzu 8971097660 - CV BOOT KIT, INNER
Isuzu 8971097650 - CV BOOT KIT, OUTER
Isuzu 8972391560 - POWER STEERING SUCTION HOSE
Isuzu 8944594652 - BALL JOINT, LOWER
Isuzu 8980365950 - KNUCKLE SEAL
Isuzu 8970325080 - THERMOSTAT
Isuzu 8944077180 - KNUCKLE BEARING THRUST WASHER
Isuzu 9095714140 - DRAIN PLUG CRUSH WASHER (X3)
Isuzu 9095613380 - COOLANT PIPE O-RING (upper)
Isuzu 1096231300 - COOLANT PIPE O-RING (lower)
Aisin 43531-60010 - FREEWHEEL HUB COVER GASKET (X2)
Aisin 43532-60010 - FREEWHEEL HUB ORING (X2)
Isuzu 8972402750 - LOCKING HUB BODY TO WHEEL HUB GASKET (X2)
Isuzu 9091800280 - MANUAL HUB 26MM SNAP RING (X4)
Isuzu 8941789290 - MANUAL HUB SHIM T=0.2 (X2)
Isuzu 8941789300 - MANUAL HUB SHIM T=0.3 (X2)
Isuzu 8941789310 - MANUAL HUB SHIM T=0.5 (X2)
Isuzu 8941789290 - MANUAL HUB SHIM T=1.0 (X2)
Isuzu 8943829060 - FUEL TANK SEAL
Isuzu 8944539370 - G80 FRICTION DISC PACK
Isuzu 8960142340 - TRANS PAN GASKET
Isuzu 8978074840 - HEADLIGHT WIPER INSERTS (X2)
Isuzu 8971150900 - AC SWITCH BULB

New To-Do List:
  1. Reseal the power steering pump and replace the pressure line: The fluid leak must be addressed before I install my new alternator

    [/*]
  2. Replace the alternator with Denso OEM reman unit

    [/*]
  3. Replace battery cables with new 6 or 4 gauge cable

    [/*]
  4. Wire brush and dielectric grease all grounding points

    [/*]
  5. Passenger side front end service 2.0:
    • Lower ball joint replace with OEM (AcDelco 'advantage" ball joint boots ripped after 1 year)[/*]
    • Address the source of the occasional 4wd whine from steering knuckle - likely knuckle bearing going out due to damaged knuckle seal![/*]
    • Replace the knuckle seal with OEM[/*]
    • Replace knuckle bearing/thrust washer[/*]
    • Replace wheel bearings and races[/*]
    • Replace CV axle with a re-booted junkyard OEM axle, using the OEM outer+inner boot kit (replacement req'd to install manual hubs due to destroyed large circlip groove)[/*]

    [/*]
  6. Install the new manual hubs

    [/*]
  7. Replace the thermostat with new OEM as preventive maintenance

    [/*]
  8. Door latch: rear left door latch does not work from the inside. Linkage disconnected somewhere?

    [/*]
  9. Lock actuator: rear left door lock actuator does not raise or lower with the other 4 doors. Broken solenoid, or just a snapped linkage?

    [/*]
  10. Brake band adjust: a transmission maintenance item that I have not done yet. Will be performed alongside another filter change and drain and fill. May need to take the exhaust down for this one[/*]
 

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on the non-working door lock, its most likely a broken door lock actuator motor arm...complete replacement of door lock module will be required....good luck on finding a good used one....
i replaced 2 failed rear door lock actuators, with $20 units from princess auto- can be had for $ 12 on sale....a few extra mounting holes drilled, custom bent linkage, wiring and done! power door locks fixed ! 8)

and thats a pretty impressive list of parts for good repair job :D !
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
93trooperpooper said:
on the non-working door lock, its most likely a broken door lock actuator motor arm...complete replacement of door lock module will be required....good luck on finding a good used one....
i replaced 2 failed rear door lock actuators, with $20 units from princess auto- can be had for $ 12 on sale....a few extra mounting holes drilled, custom bent linkage, wiring and done! power door locks fixed ! 8)

and thats a pretty impressive list of parts for good repair job :D !
Thanks! I will certainly give that a try. I'm glad I didn't get the OEM actuator, $250 :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Paid for an hour of diagnostics at a shop that has done some great diagnostic work on my moms 4runner before. They said that the cooling system held pressure for a full hour, but there is coolant residue below the timing cover so they suspect a water pump leak is occurring only in extreme cold.
I really wish I had ordered one of the mahle/felpro water pump gaskets which are beaded, rather than using the crappy paper one that came with the ACDelco water pump.

As for the squealing noise in 4wd, they said they couldn't really hear anything, but it is definitely still making the noise. So idk, still guessing it's the knuckle bearing but I guess we'll see when I have it all apart this summer.

Half my rockauto order including the alternator has been stuck in a Memphis FedEx warehouse for about 5 days now. Southern US has bigger problms than courier services right now, so ill just be patient for the weather to clear up!
Also ordered 4x Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 - P245/40R19 for my Honda accord as the original Michelin 19" tires are at the Treadwear markers now
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Left the trooper idling for 10 minutes with the heater off, and when I came back the temp gauge was the nearest to red ive ever seen it.

I felt the thermostat housing, and the area in front of the thermostat (rad side) was lukewarm, while the area behind the thermostat (engine side) was burning hot. My new OEM thermostat won't be here for a couple months, so I will grab one from lordco to use short term as well as bleed the system in case the guys who did the pressure test left an air bubble in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Updates on the running "hot" issue:

Tested the thermostat in a pot of hot water, using two thermometers for accuracy. The original OEM thermstat opened both sooner and wider than the new aftermarket. Reinstalled the old tstat

Bled the cooling system of air on a steep uphill, and confirmed that the 1.5 year-old fan clutch is still operating perfectly well

Next, bought an infrared temp gun and measured it while the temp gauge was showing above 2/3 (this is as hot as I could get it today, other times it has come 3/4 up the gauge or more when the heater is left off):


Temperature of tstat housing "before" the thermostat: 67F


Temperature of stat housing "after" the thermostat: 132F


Coolant outlet pipe 176.5F:


Heater lines, heater core closed: 198F:


Not pictured - Front of engine block and oil filter: 180F, Transmission pan: 105F


These infrared temps show an engine which is perfectly within operating temps and a thermostat mostly shut... while the gauge indicates an engine which is exceeding its cooling capacity and thermostat ideally open
So why would the gauge just recently begin hitting these highs that it never used to, all last summer with the heater off and the ac on and running the same temp sender that I am now, it always stayed in its normal position, just a tad under the middle.....

Is the new temp sender (Standard Motor Products premium line) gone failty and showing it as hotter than it actually is?
Water pump, radiator, fan clutch are all less than 2 years old and less than 15000 miles
Maybe I should remove the thermostat temporarily and re-measure temps?
Curious if the heater lines should be ~20 degrees hotter than the main engine outlet to the rad as shown? Perhaps while the hcore and tstat are closed those heater lines do actually indicate the "real" temp, and the sender is correct in its reading
:? :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
So, almost certain now that this is due to the coolant temp sensor having changed its sensitivity somehow. Drove her hard today then let her idle with the heater off to see how high I could get the temp gauge. Eventually, I was able to get it to creep up near red again (definitely not on the red, just much closer than I'm used to seeing it). Got out the infrared temp gun, and everything was at a perfect operating temp - coolant outlet 185F, before thermostat 100F, after thermostat 170F, oil filter 200F, engine block 205F.

I am 100% certain tippy is not overheating, and she's not even running hot. Must be the temp sensor giving me the runaround. Anyone else dealt with an issue like this where the "calibration" of the temp gauge seems to have changed? Because I now have a temp gauge that is riding well past the middle when the engine is at normal operating temp

Just out of curiosity, also scanned the temps of several other things today after a good hour long highway run. Immediately after stopping, checked the diff pumpkin which was at 100F. Transfer case was 183F.
Then, checked transmission fluid temps. Outlet line = 145F, after the oil-to-air cooler w/ pusher fan running = 80F, return line after radiator heat exchanger = 120F, pan = 100F (temps all measured on clean metal)
Hubs had a difference in temps, with the left side around 80F and the right at 70F.
Ambient temps today were 6C/43F
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Got some big upgrades coming!

ARB 3444050: Heavy Duty Deluxe Winch Mount Bumper

IRONMAN4X4 HOLD0009: Heavy duty torsion bars

Dual piston front calipers upgrade: Raybestos calipers for a 2005 Chevrolet Colorado (direct bolt on upgrade after trimming the dust shield) + akebono brake pads

Braided brake lines: will most likely buy these from Roberto on the Isuzu Trader

1998+ rear flares: To cover up the quarter panel wheelwell rust
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Got the ARB bumper and heavy duty torsion bars installed! Apparently this was the last one available in the entire world (shipped in from Florida), so hopefully ARB makes another batch. What a great looking mod, totally changed the appearance of Tippy. The amber lights in the bumper were wired to the fog light harness



Also yesterday I replaced the front sway bar bushings with some polyurethane ones from suberian bushing, wrapped the bar the thickest PTFE tape I could find (the yellow gas line rated stuff) as a permanent lubricant to prevent squeaks, then a bit of silicone grease and we're set

the body roll has been hugely reduced by the HD torsion bars and poly sway bar bushings. I can take turns way faster now than I would have ever dared to before. With the extra weight of the bumper, these tbars provide almost exactly the suspension firmness I like.

My to-do list just keeps getting larger! In addition to the previous list, I will now be doing the following:

-Front differential drop: Will buy the brackets from Roberto on Isuzu Trader, probably will do a 1.5" drop. I leveled the front with the rear when installing the new tbars, I love the lift but I don't like the angles that the CV boots are at.

-Oil pan gasket: it doesn't really leak, but since I can get the oil pan off easy when the crossmember, diff and steering idler are all removed, I will iust check for debris in the oil pickup and put a new gasket in.

-inner axle shaft bearings and seals: since I will be removing the front differential to install the drop brackets, I will also replace these bearings, as they are another potential cause of the whining noise when in 4wd

-upper control arm bushings: might not do these if the bushings are still in good condition

-Both sets of CV boots: since I will have easy access to replace the boots on both axles during the diff drop, I will be ordering another OEM inner and outer boot kit so I can have all new rubber on both axles.

-Dual piston front caliper upgrade and steel braided brake line install: I received my new Chevrolet Colorado calipers, they are Isuzus updated caliper design that bolts right up to 2nd gen troopers with only trimming the dust shield and possibly longer mount bolts as the only mods needed to install them

-Redo the water pump gasket it is still sometimes randomly dripping coolant out from behind the timing covers when shut off. I blame myself for using a non-beaded gasket and for a crappy silicone application. Its a very minimal leak and never drips when running, but I'll still need to fix it. Even though there's only 12000 miles on the pump and belt, I may just replace them both again since they're both coming off

-Camshaft seals and end plugs: since Ill be doing the timing belt a second time in 2 years I will have no excuse to not replace these seals and plugs. No major leaks but they all seep a little bit.

Hopefully I can take care of some of these to-do items before the list grows even larger.

In other news, the first of two OEM parts shipments arrived! Amayama.com is definitely legit and I feel lucky that Isuzu is even still making/selling parts for these. The OEM CV boot kits are made by NSK and come with grease, boot clamps, snap rings and of course the boots themselves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Just made the yearly big-*** rockauto order to ensure I'll have everything else i need for this summer's work. Most likely going to to the engine work first, then the axle/steering/suspension stuff and diff drop afterwards

LISLE 30950 CV Joint Boot Installation Tool

FEL-PRO VS50468R Valve cover gasket (probably not going to remove the valve covers again but just incase I need to, I picked up another gasket set on wholesaler closeout)

MOOG ES3370T, ES3369T Tie Rod Ends (F250 upgrade)

MEVOTECH GES3368S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve

NATIONAL 710516 Axle shaft inner seal x2

NATIONAL 106FL Axle shaft bearing x2

TIMKEN 710168 wheel seal x2

PERFORMANCE TOOL W1218 Bearing grease packer

PERFORMANCE TOOL W135P Gear Puller (for crankshaft timing gear)

MITSUBISHI 1213A027 Crankshaft seal

TIMKEN 1981 Camshaft seal x2

MAHLE B45856 Camshaft Plug x4

FEL-PRO 35593 Water pump gasket

FEL-PRO OS30679C Oil pan gasket

GATES T220 Timing belt

GATES 42120 Water pump

GATES 7405 Power steering belt

MEVOTECH GS80108 RH Upper control arm
 

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Where are you sourcing the parts for the dual piston calipers? Just whatever auto parts store? Rock Auto doesn't ship to me. What years from the Colorado do you get the calipers from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Enemigo said:
Where are you sourcing the parts for the dual piston calipers? Just whatever auto parts store? Rock Auto doesn't ship to me. What years from the Colorado do you get the calipers from?
I got mine from rockauto but actually NAPA may have new ones a well. Thry are for a 2004-2008 Chevrolet Colorado. You'll also need the front pads for the same application. Lots of remanufactured options, but I could only one new set avail, which is RAYBESTOS FRC11704N and FRC11703N
 

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sno said:
Enemigo said:
Where are you sourcing the parts for the dual piston calipers? Just whatever auto parts store? Rock Auto doesn't ship to me. What years from the Colorado do you get the calipers from?
I got mine from rockauto but actually NAPA may have new ones a well. Thry are for a 2004-2008 Chevrolet Colorado. You'll also need the front pads for the same application. Lots of remanufactured options, but I could only one new set avail, which is RAYBESTOS FRC11704N and FRC11703N
Thanks. The discs are the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Enemigo said:
sno said:
Enemigo said:
Where are you sourcing the parts for the dual piston calipers? Just whatever auto parts store? Rock Auto doesn't ship to me. What years from the Colorado do you get the calipers from?
I got mine from rockauto but actually NAPA may have new ones a well. Thry are for a 2004-2008 Chevrolet Colorado. You'll also need the front pads for the same application. Lots of remanufactured options, but I could only one new set avail, which is RAYBESTOS FRC11704N and FRC11703N
Thanks. The discs are the same?
No problem, that's correct discs are the same
 
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