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nice, a'93 ls like mine, at the same price-$0...BUT alot of time and money to get it to where it is. my trooper '' brenda'' has 430,000 km on it. had 375,000 when i got it .
my other '93 ( deloris) ls almost identical to brenda- same color, same rust, a few more options....$500, not runnning ( failed water pump) 275,000 km

it is more of a challenge, owning one up here in canada, where these isuzus arent as common...

:x auto lock hubs :x
 

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good to hear its running decent.
both my troopers are very rusty. to the point that i will not save them, but drive them until they are a former shell of themselves. the bodywork doesnt make it drive or run any better.
i think i need injector work on brenda. bad stumble on cold start, clears up- but i dont feel like taking the intakes all apart AGAIN . rear diff has a terrible howl- had it all apart, gears are good, but bearings and races are scored. guess what? no bearings on this continent- and jerry is looking overseas, with little to no luck. ugh.
i have bought parts from jerry before. good guy.
the sway bar bushings i put on mine were either moog, or energy suspension. they were a direct fit with new brackets as well.
i bought a pair of energy susp universal fit polyurethane bumpstops for the rear. havent installed them yet.
my bumpstops are rotted / smashed off on the rear. most likely due to the horrid abuse i put it thru, before fixing it up as a daily driver.
i figured that it was a tough enough vehicle to repair- after all, it survived many a jump at my place off the top of one of my hills. that was fun. :lol: it didnt break, so i fixed it up a bit.
the front end is worn out (steering) AGAIN but all i bought were cheap ebay parts- really cheap- and two years later the front end is just as bad, if not worse- i have all replacement moog parts on hand, but the alignment shop i use is closed until ? with this covid. plus not working right now, so its not really a priority. steering box is worn out as well.

as far as i can tell, this trans has never been out, 427,xxx km. when i had the trans pan off, it had a non-oem filter in it, but no marks on the bell-housing bolts have been noticed.
 

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yup, make great friends with rock auto, and JERRY LEMOND .

i tried synthetic oil in my tooper - it smoked more, and leaked more... it took at least 3 oil changes ( back to conventional engine oil ) to stop those leaks. now i just use 10/30 , or 15/ 40 oil, and change every 5k. use about a liter between oil changes.
thats with almost 430,000 km on it.

my other trooper, half the km on it, uses more oil, like almost 2 liters between oil changes, maybe more....

i pick up pennzoil, 5 liters for $18, and $2~3 for the filter...i get wholesale prices on the oil filters ( wix )

-check the gas, fill the oil -
 

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great job! now i am curious about mine- it runs really rough on first start up, stinks of raw gas, very sooty tailpipe,and long cranks when hot- but the oil doesnt creep up- it goes out the tailpipe. now less oil use that i switched to 20w50.
 

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i took the engine lifting eye brackets off, and left them off...just in case i need to pull the covers again....nice pics....now you are really tempting me on getting my injectors cleaned....
 

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yup, typical ripped /torn/ damaged intake tube....good luck finding a used one. both my troopers suffer from that issue- was fixed for $20 at a friends muffler shop. cut out the bad section, grabbed a chunk of exhaust pipe, and stretched it until it was a snug fit, installed that in place of the broken section, secured with hose clamps.
my one trooper has a k&n, the other oem paper filter....the one with higher miles has the k&n, and has more ''pep'' in her step vs the lower mile , oem paper filter trooper....hmmm
nice intake mod.
 

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more than likely the door lock actuator is n/g....gears get stripped inside, its a square or rectangle box , cant really remember....
but princess auto ( you should know that place :lol: ) has generic door lock actuators for cheap, sometimes on sale for $9
comes with extra rods and clips, can hook it up either piggy-back to the oem rod, or completly remove door module and install aftermarket actuator in its place, directly hooked up to the door latch lock mechanisim.

might have pics in my rebuild thread.

my one trooper i replaced the rotten flex-pipe with a straight chunk of pipe. also knocked out the restrictors in the pipes.

brenda is leaking p/steering fluid onto the alt, as well as a recent steering box leak.... :roll: steering box is slopped out, no amount of adjusting will tighten it up, will just replace box , and pump at the same time.....
 

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on the non-working door lock, its most likely a broken door lock actuator motor arm...complete replacement of door lock module will be required....good luck on finding a good used one....
i replaced 2 failed rear door lock actuators, with $20 units from princess auto- can be had for $ 12 on sale....a few extra mounting holes drilled, custom bent linkage, wiring and done! power door locks fixed ! 8)

and thats a pretty impressive list of parts for good repair job :D !
 

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the one pic of your temp gauge is about where both my troopers run for temps....
good cross-over for the front calipers....good used ones are hard to find, i 've had two remans go leaky on me...
i bought an ebay set of drilled / slotted rotors and ceramic pads front /rear ...this trooper stops really well.

and thanks for the tip on the injector guy ....brenda runs smoother, easier on fuel... :D
 

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i made a dedicated crank seal tool installer for my isuzu....a chunk of pipe with the diameter that is just smaller than the seal, deeper than the crank snout stick-out, and then welded a piece of flat stock on the one end for hammering. might have a hard time finding a socket that deep, that diameter to fit...i know i did....
always made my own seal installers....and as for seal removers, i use a small screw driven into the face of the seal, then a trim removal tool for the leverage / prybar. or even pliers. easy peasy. i do have an actual seal remover tool, but its only good for open bores...

i installed new rear cam plugs when i had the cams out...put the rtv in place, install cam plug seals, then hold them in place and tighten down the cam caps
then install the recall plates.

i am a ''jack of all trades, master of two'' kind of guy. :roll: to the point where now if people ask if i know how, i play dumb...pick and choose my battles...oh wait i own an isuzu :?
 

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great work so far...
yup, i removed those restrictors on one of the troopers or both ? cant remember which one, but i KNOW i did remove them :drunken:
and there is nothing better for fit and finish than oem parts....
i had to trim about 1/2 inch off the inner and outer tie rods to get enough room inside the adjuster, when i did the hd tie rod mod on the one trooper...and hardened washers under the castle nuts, the taper on the tie rod stuck thru a bit , not letting the castle nut tighten down properly. drilled out the hardened washers a bit , for perfect fit.....
 
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