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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this has been posted before, wasn't able to find using the search.

95 Trooper 3.2 DOHC with 130k. Just had the "death rattle" of the tensioner pop up (comes and goes at idle, always goes away above 2250 rpm) and I'm on the road away from the home garage. Haven't done the timing belt job myself before (was done by shop back at 60k), is it possible to remove the left timing cover and R&R the tensioner without removing the typical components (fan shroud, fan, pulleys, etc.)? Timing belt appears to be in fine shape and am hoping to band-aid it to get home, then go in and do the whole timing belt/pulleys/water pump, etc. job when I have all the tools.

Appreciate any advice, thanks.
 

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If it is the same as a DOHC 3.2 on a '99 amigo, no. Have fun with that! :lol:

Regardless, I would recomend tearing the whole thing apart anyway. I just did the timing belt on the amigo. When all of the marks are liked up, the rt cam gear wants to move. If it wasn't all taken apart you could easly put it abck together a tooth or two off and only find out when it is all back together.

BTW: you don't have to remove the fan/fanclutch from the triangular mounting pully holder thing. (like the Hayns man says) Just remove the three bolts to the mount.

time to buy:
timing belt
water pump
$$ for the cussing jar
 

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It's pretty involved, you'll need to remove everything, best to wait till you get back.

Pointer for when you do do it, clamp something on the cam pulleys when you swap the tensioner. That way you won't risk the pulley under spring tension springing back, screwing up your timing. Those little clamps used for binding paper together will do the trick, even vice grips if you're careful not to gouge the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I think this engine is a bit different than the later 3.2 DOHC's, don't know if that would make a difference however.

cronk: Would you consider it reasonably safe enough to drive back (275 miles) with the intermittent symptoms? Would certainly rather wait till back with all the necessary tools.

Thanks.
 

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I drove mine for a while with it doing it, it could last, it could self destruct. Kind of a crap shoot really. Kind of embarrassing when it sounds like that though.....

If it dies on the way back, you'll know what it was. It's a non interference engine so you won't break anything internally. However, a shredded belt flopping around under those plastic shields will tear some things up.
 

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Take all the belts off. Drain the radiator and the transmission. Use clean buckets if your going to reuse these fluids. Remove the radiator.

You will want a breaker bar with a socket for the crank bolt. Disconnect the coil packs (or pull the fuse) and jam the breaker bar in the frame. Crank it and that should loosen the bolt. (at least that's how I got mine off) Alternatively,jam something like a screwdriver in the ring gear for the starter and use the breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Now remove the bolt the rest of the way. I used a gear puller from harbor freight (15 bucks for a set of three sizes) to remove the crank pulley. You should now be able to remove the coolant pipe in front of the covers and then remove the timing covers,exposing the belt and tensioner.
Check the tensioner pulley to be sure that it rotates freely and smoothly. Replace the timing belt,its cheap,don't try to reuse it. Use a new tensioner. I got mine from the Honda dealer. They had it in stock. I found an original Isuzu part for a Acura on the internet for 76 dollars after shipping and they price matched it. It will have a little pull ring on it,don't pull it until its installed because its a pain to get back in.

I suggest reading one of the uploaded service manuals here to get the directions on how to install the timing belt,but the basic premise is simple. Line up all the marks. Put the belt on so the lines line up with the marks. Use binder clips to hold the belt in place. Use the breaker bar with a socket to hold back the tensioner pully with one hand. With your other hand hold the hydraulic tensioner in place. With your third hand :shock: ,put the bolts in holding the tensioner in finger tight. Tighten them down,make sure everything is still lined up and then pull the pin. Start it up and make sure it runs right. Then put it all together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just a follow-up for future searchers. Got the truck back home to the garage no problem (probably put on another 400-500 miles, tensioner sound intermittent). Was willing to gamble after jlemond's counsel that it should be fine, not likely to throw a belt for quite a while. Got the parts from jlemond and will be going in to replace all (belt, tensioner, pulleys, water pump).

Thanks to all who contributed. And thanks to jlemond; very helpful, great to work with and fast service.
 
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