[RoDayo]

How hard is the timing belt to replace in a 99 Rodeo with the 3.2 V-6 ? I have 110,000 miles on mine and I think I am driving on borrowed time! Thanks, Cliff

 

[Toop96]

I'd like to know this too, and also does my 96 Trooper 3.2 V-6 have a belt or a chain? My Chilton manual is useless here. I have 106K and I suspect I'm on borrowed time :lol: as well.

 

[Rodeofox]

I'd like to know this too, and also does my 96 Trooper 3.2 V-6 have a belt or a chain? My Chilton manual is useless here. I have 106K and I suspect I'm on borrowed time :lol: as well.

Takes an hour or so. I pulled the Radiator to get better access to to timing notches. You need a harmonic balancer puller that you can rent from autozone, napa, etc. Also would be good to change the tensioner while youre in there. Make sure all the alignment marks line up before you go putting it all back together.

BTW- It's a belt not a chain.

For the 98 Rodeo I would think that things would be fairly alike, but I can't be for sure.

 

[Zillon]

Takes an hour? Man... I'd like to know what you're on! :shock:

It's going to take you at least 2 days in real time, with breaks to keep you from throwing big monkey-wrenches at your truck in various bouts of confusion and aggrivation when things won't, don't, and can't seem to line up right.

However, it is a thousand-dollar job to get it done by a mechanic, so I'd suggest doing it yourself if you feel you are able to undertake the task.

I would take care of the water pump and belt tensioner while you're in there as well.

 

[Rodeofox]

Takes an hour? Man... I'd like to know what you're on! :shock:

It's going to take you at least 2 days in real time, with breaks to keep you from throwing big monkey-wrenches at your truck in various bouts of confusion and aggrivation when things won't, don't, and can't seem to line up right.

However, it is a thousand-dollar job to get it done by a mechanic, so I'd suggest doing it yourself if you feel you are able to undertake the task.

I would take care of the water pump and belt tensioner while you're in there as well.

Well last week it took an hour for me to put a new water pump gasket on. I have had to put two new heads on mine. So I guess im just very familar with what needs to be done.

Take off the belts, 4 12mm nuts on the fan, take out radiator-- I found By not removing the lower hose I could take it out still full, Remove upper timing belt covers. Take out the 24mm Bolt holding on the Harmonic balancer, then using the puller remove the harmonic balancer((probably the longest part)). Take off the timing belt/tensioner then reinstall the new timing belt and new tensioner((don't remove the retaining pin on it yet)) once timing marks are lined up you can remove the retaining pin on the tensioner and then just reinstall everything and it's good to go.

Let say 3 hours with breaks?? Mine went fast cause I put the new heads on and everything else and I fired it up and the water pump was leaking like crazy so I immediatly tore right back into it to fix it.

 

[ab6cr]

How hard is the timing belt to replace in a 99 Rodeo with the 3.2 V-6 ? I have 110,000 miles on mine and I think I am driving on borrowed time! Thanks, Cliff

I just did the timing belt on my 1999 Rodeo last weekend. It's an all day job or more if it's your first time. Here's what I did.

1. Remove the drive belt
2. Remove the 3 fan mount bolts up against the engine. you don't have to take the fan apart.
3.Removed the radator/hoses for more room but not neccesary. I ended up replaceing the hoses.
4. Remove the drive belt idler pulley.
5. Remove the drive belt tensioner to be able to remove the passenger side timing cover. 2 bolts, one just above it the other an allan head bolt through the center of it.
6. You might be able to remove the drivers side timing cover without moving the power steering pump. If not then you can remove 3 bolts accessed through holes in its pulley. I then pried it to the side about 1/2" and the cover comes off easily.
7. I have a manual transmission so when removing the crank pulley I just put the vehicle in gear and used a 3ft. cheater on my breaker bar. Otherwise just hit the starter to break the bolt loose. The pulley easily pulled off by hand.
8. I replaced the water pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley, timing idler pulley, timing belt.
9. When installing the timing belt I found it easier to attach the belt at the cam pulley first and the crank last. use "binder clips" or small wood working clamps to hold the belt on each pulley. Oh I didn't need to remove the spark plugs to rotate the crank into position. Just move slowly with occasional pauses to release the pressure.
Another thing to remember is that when putting the water pump back on if your putting a new one in is the top right bolt hole stays empty until you put the fan mount back on. Also one of the bolts has to have thread locker on it to seal.

Did I miss anything??

Conclusion: All the parts I replaced were in good condition and still appeared to have many miles left on them. But "what the hey" Better safe than sorry.

Hope that helps

 

[radare]

I'm in the middle of this, now, on my 2001 4WD V6. Everything Ab6cr says is dead on . I would add, though . . . be sure to have all parts you think you may need, in hand before starting. Upon disassembly, I found my idler pulley to be a bit rattley, so I've had to leave the truck torn apart for a week now, waiting on a new idler.

Here are some images to inspire you:

This is with everything removed and the belt ready to come off. I didn't have to remove the power steering pump; remove the three mounting bolts and lever it out of the way. Also, the radiator can stay in place, though, don't damage it; I used an impact to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and had plenty of clearance with the radiator installed.

This one is with the idler pulley and water pump removed. I had intended to replace it as a matter of preventative maintenance, anyway, and found it seeping a bit through the weep hole.

All-in-all, I will have replaced the following during the timing belt replacement. These are things I would add to your list (keep in mind, my truck only has ~77k miles)
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner and idler pulley assemblies and tensioner pushrod
Water pump
crankshaft front oil seal
camshaft front oil seals
lower radiator hose
upper radiator hose
serpentine belt
serpentine belt tensioner assembly and idler pulley

Finally, if it looks damaged or worn, replace it. Good luck.

 

[Zaphod]

I don't suppose the Workshop Manual has the instructions to do this, eh?

WTF hasn't Helm or anyone else come out with the old "complete terdown and rebuild" manuals for the 2nd Generation Troopers?

 

[RodeoRed]

haynes has a manual for them, but they aren't the greatest

 

[Rodeofox]

haynes has a manual for them, but they aren't the greatest

I found the Haynes to be slightly better then the cliton for this.

 

[AdamJ]

Hi, I have read through the good information in these threads about the timing belt replacement.

I am still trying to determine if it is worth the time and frustration to do it myself, but a quote from the delearship was ~$1,300 and a local mechanic was about $700. With those prices its hard NOT to do it yourself.

Anyways I have a question, all these proceedures seem to start with "Place crankshaft in #2 TDC position." How do I know when it is in that position?

Also, when the crankshaft is in the #2 TDC position, I should assume that the camshaft drive gears will be aligned with the mark on the valve cover?

Once those items are aligned, is it as simple as removing and replacing the belt, or am I missing some other type of alignment step(s)?

 

[radare]

You don't even need to worry about TDC before the job. Remove the accessories and timing cover. When you can see the full timing belt (as shown in the picture above), thread the crankshaft bolt back into the crankshaft (without the crankshaft pulley) and rotate the engine clockwise until the marks on the pulleys line up with the marks on the engine block.

Once lined up, remove the old belt and install the new, using the marks on the new timing belt as a reference. You may have to rotate the the crankshaft a small amount (a few degrees) to get the marks lined up.

Install the new belt and release the tensioner. Make sure the marks are still lined up. Finally, rotate the engine through two revolutions and make sure the marks on the pulley still line up with the marks on the engine.

 

[GEG]

I have done this job three times to three different Rodeos. Time one was about a full day. Time three was two hours. The trick is to have all of the needed parts on hand when you start. Timing belt and water pump are a must. Tensioner and idlers come in a close next. Check the front crank seal while you are there.
Geg

 

[Callithrix]

OK, I got stuck at the crankshaft pulley. Do yuo guys always use the impact to unscrew it or what? It seems, nothing can prevent it from rotating.

Also, I wonder if it ordinary right-side bolt?

I have a 1997 Rodeo 4wd.
Thanks.

 

[GEG]

Use a breaker bar with the right sized socket on the crank bolt. I think it might be a 15-16 inch. Use the starter motor as the way to loosen that bolt. Pull the ecm fuse in your main box first. The crank turns clockwise so set the breaker bar in a secure spot by the steering gear. Then just tap the key and the bolt should be free. You will want to make sure everyone is clear before you do this. I have never had this trick fail.
GEG

 

[Callithrix]

I have never had this trick fail.
GEG

Thanks a lot. That was cool!