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I'm getting ready to do a timing belt replacement on a 1994 Trooper 3.2L w/ 180k miles. I'm new around these engines so I was hoping to get some ideas on what else should be replaced (lifters, hoses, wiring or anything that is known to break around this mileage) while i'm in there.

TIA...

...Carl - [email protected]
 

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Adam and I changed mine last year (4th of July). Do the water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner as a set. If your truck still has the old-style tensioner, you'll need a tensioner pulley too. If you can help it, line up the timing marks then remove the belt. If you don't turn anything, you can put the belt right back on after replacing the water pump and tensioner, then pull the pin on the tensioner and be done. If either head turns, then you'll have to follow the procedure in the book to get it back in sync. You can't just turn it one turn and get it back to the same point. It's something like 2 or 4 full turns to realign the cams in the head. It's a good time to change your coolant too, since you'll want to remove the upper radiator hose for access.

-Tad
 

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I agree with Tad on the three things to do at once

*timing belt
*timing belt tensioner
*water pump

plus add
*drive belt(s) for a/c, alternator, power steering pump, fan (water pump)

:arrow: you do the tensioner because it goes bad and causes all sorts of ruckus like you think you blew a rod, and then you have to do the timing belt all over again;

:arrow: you do the water pump because to change it you have to take the timing belt off (and you don't want to go through all this again).

:arrow: you do the other drive belts 'cause they're off and probably stretched.

Tad said:
If your truck still has the old-style tensioner, you'll need a tensioner pulley too.
i've seen this mentioned in non-dealer parts sites, but have no idea what this means. usually the tensioner pulley is fine, and you only replace if it needs it at the time (and it usually doesn't).

:?: [[does anyone know what the old-style tensioner is vs. the so-called new-style tensioner for a '92 on....]] :?:

Tad said:
If you can help it, line up the timing marks then remove the belt. If you don't turn anything, you can put the belt right back on after replacing the water pump and tensioner, then pull the pin on the tensioner and be done. If either head turns, then you'll have to follow the procedure in the book to get it back in sync. You can't just turn it one turn and get it back to the same point. It's something like 2 or 4 full turns to realign the cams in the head.
true, you can line all marks up prior to initial disassembly (except the timing belt marks), but there is absolutely no reason to fear moving either the cams or the crank -- as long as you get the marks lined up correctly again.
this seems to be some old (mechanics) wives' tale that gets passed down from time to time. the mark on each cam and the mark on the crank are constant -- they always indicate the same position of their respective components. turning them more times only means -- actually all it means is you've turned them more times.

now, all this being said, i strongly urge you to buy -- way ahead of time -- the original and pricey one and only original factory shop manual and supplements from helm inc, click here.

i also suggest dealer parts on all of these items.

you will still want to visit here at planetisuzu and at the isuzu pages at 4x4wire.com click here. for all sorts of help and opinion not covered by the manual (like how to retorque that crank bolt, and how to get it off in the first place, without the very specialized tool called for in the manual.

i did this job using the manual and lots of help from here and the wire. it's doable, i just strongly suggest you get the correct info and take your time doing it.

good luck

P_S_ see my comment on your ps pump question
 

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trooperbc said:
Tad said:
If your truck still has the old-style tensioner, you'll need a tensioner pulley too.
i've seen this mentioned in non-dealer parts sites, but have no idea what this means. usually the tensioner pulley is fine, and you only replace if it needs it at the time (and it usually doesn't).

:?: [[does anyone know what the old-style tensioner is vs. the so-called new-style tensioner for a '92 on....]] :?:

Tad said:
If you can help it, line up the timing marks then remove the belt. If you don't turn anything, you can put the belt right back on after replacing the water pump and tensioner, then pull the pin on the tensioner and be done. If either head turns, then you'll have to follow the procedure in the book to get it back in sync. You can't just turn it one turn and get it back to the same point. It's something like 2 or 4 full turns to realign the cams in the head.
true, you can line all marks up prior to initial disassembly (except the timing belt marks), but there is absolutely no reason to fear moving either the cams or the crank -- as long as you get the marks lined up correctly again.
this seems to be some old (mechanics) wives' tale that gets passed down from time to time. the mark on each cam and the mark on the crank are constant -- they always indicate the same position of their respective components. turning them more times only means -- actually all it means is you've turned them more times.
I can't agree more with the recomendation to buy the Helm manual.

A couple of comments:

1) The old timing belt pulley and the new tensioner won't mate. The new pulley is required if it hasn't already been upgraded because you can't get the old style tensioner anymore. Also, absolutely don't pull the tensioner pin until everything else is in place. You'll need a vice to compress the piston if you make a mistake and have to repeat the process.

2) Maybe the DOHC engine is different, but if you rotate the engine only 1 turn it won't stop at the mark. There is a timing chain in each head of the early DOHC engines. The camshafts won't end up in a "neutral" position on the valve springs if you haven't turned it X number of turns. That's why it won't stop on the mark unless the right number of turns has been completed. If nobody has come up with it, I'll dig out my Helm (I just moved and haven't cracked it open since we got here) tomorrow or Thursday and post the correct info.

You can however safely rotate the crank to your heart's content. It is a non-interference engine so the pistons won't contact the valves.

My records when ordering these parts from St. Charles is:
water pump
129.02
timing belt
59.30
tensioner
65.25
tensioner pulley
131.31

Total:
$402.02

-Tad
 
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