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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As with all other 98-99 Rodeo models, my 98 Isuzu Rodeo (78 K, 2WD) has been using some oil... Through searching this forum, I decided to get something done to reduce it. At this point I would like to ask your opinion for the following items and the price that Isuzu dealer quoted.

1. Replace the PCV valve - $66.30 (including parts)
2. Clean the EGR valve, tube and passages - $85
3. Decarbonization cleaning to take care of carbon residues, etc… - $174

Are these reasonable prices for the services above? Unfortunately, I am not a "do it yourself" type of guy, so that's not an option.
How about taking the truck to other shops? Are the items outlined above can be done "safely" in locations like PepBoys, Firestone, etc for less?
Thanks very much for your replies in advance!
 

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I'm not surprised that much by the high charge for a pcv valve. This is a dealer after all.

Do you have any information on this:
3. Decarbonization cleaning to take care of carbon residues, etc

I assume that they will be cleaning the intake manifold, but I might be wrong.

You also might want to try some sea-foam. It's an additive that you put in your oil. The idea is that clogged drain holes in the rings are causing the excessive oil consumption, and sea foam is supposed to help with that.

-Tad
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright... I called the dealer again today and asked if all #1, 2 and 3 were done together, whether it would make any difference in terms of what I was quoted yesterday. Well, apparently there is no "labor overlap" between all three items. Yeah right!

So, I will replace PCV valve myself.

Apparently as part of the decarb service, they hook "something" to the fuel line and flash all the carbons, as well as manually clean the necessary components. It is not just pouring a gas treatment to the tank Should I still go for this for $174? EGR cleaning and decarb service together will cost me $260. I DO want to keep my truck for another 78K (heck until it dies on me). If this will be something beneficial in the long run, I wont hesitate doing it...

Yes... I will be doing "seafoam" treatment as well on Friday -right before the oil change. Thanks!

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
 

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It's just my opinion but I think this is the kind of crap the service people make their money on. What kind of problems are you having because of the carbon?

My 98 was giving me a code for Egr valve inoperable. Took it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner, plugged the large hole and started the truck and sprayed the rest of the carb cleaner into the smaller of the two holes and reinstalled everything.

Unhooked the battery (to reset everything) and now no check engine light. Runs like a champ. Course I never had any rough idle or any driveablity problems, just the light.

I saying this took me 30-40 minutes including cleaning the PCV vlave and reinstalling it, and clean up.

Send me a pm if you would like me to spoon feed you the procees of cleaning the egr valve and the tube. It's actually pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the PCV valve for $4! It does not look that difficult to install it (of course, dont know about the EGR and decarb thing).
In what circumstances the old PCV should go back in? If I decide to keep the old PCV and just clean it, what should I use to clean it?
Thanks for all the help. This has becoming very "instructional" thanks to everyone :D
 

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Didn't you just say you got the new one for 4 dollars. I would say under no curcumstances should you put the old one back in. For four dollars the peace of mind isn't worth putting an old one back in.
 

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I agree: what problems are you having?

But to continue the how-to part of this discussion:

For $4, just replace it. It might not even take any tools! (Even if it does, the tool would just be used to tighten/loosen the hose clamp on the hose).

To clean the EGR valve, you will need to at the very least loosen it, and better yet remove it. Spray the mounting bolts with some kind of penetrating oil (not wd40, but something like Kroil (the best in my opinion), or Liquid Wrench). I'm not 100% sure where the EGR valve is on your engine, but I'll guess somewhere on top of the engine :D It will be fairly easy to find as it has a 1/2" hard metal tube that connects it to one of the two exhaust manifolds.

You can use carb/intake cleaner to spray it out. If you want "The Good Stuff" get some of the BG brand cleaner. It probably isn't any better than the others, but Sam (the Isuzu man) recommended it to clean the EGR passage on my intake. Be sure to clean both the valve, and the passage into the intake that the valve bolts to. I'd be sure that the cleaner says that it's "Sensor Safe" and is some name brand. Penzoil or BG or something.

-Tad
 

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The EGR vavle is located on the passenger side rear of the motor, right by the plastic cover over the intake. All you need to do this is (IIRC), a 14mm socket and 3in extension, an EGR gasket, about 4 bucks, a can of carb cleaner, a rag, and a 10 mm wrench for the battery.

You remove the 2 bolts that hold the solenoid on(a plastic and metal unit), plug the hoels going into the intake, and use a razor blade to remove the gfasket material left over oin the mounting surface.

Take the solenoid, and blast the snot out of it with carb cleaner, into all the holes, you will see ALOT of black stuff coming out. I just kept blasting until it came clean..

Set the aside, reconnect your battery, plug the larger hole with a rag, and start the truck(uit seems to help having someone hold the motor at about 2500 RPMs), and spray, half, to a full can down the smaller of the holes..

Trun off the truck, disconnect the battery, and verify that your mounting surfaces are clean. Place the new gasket on the manifold, the EGR on top, and bolt it down. DONT MAKE IT TOO TIGHT...this is aluminium we are talking about... Reconnect the battery, fire the truck up, and lightly spray around the EGR with a little more carb cleaner, to make sure there are no leaks...

Then look on the dash, and notice the CEL isnt lit up....

Well worth the 7 bucks...

HTH
Chase
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks very much for the instructions. I will print them out and have it with me, when I have some time to do this cleaning.

In the mean time, I replaced the PCV valve (with an Isuzu part). Per recommendations of the people on this board, I also used Sea Foam... Added 1/2 can to the fuel tank and 1/2 can to the oil (drove around ~3-4 miles and had an oil change).
Apparently, there is one more place that Sea Foam can be applied: While reading the instructions on the web page for the Sea Foam, it says that "With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line". So in my Rodeo, where do I feed this from? The PCV valve?
Any other recommendations/suggestions for the use of Sea Foam through injection would be appreciated.
Thanks!
 

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I would use the brake booster line personally..

Chase
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got it from NAPA...
Here is the list of resellers from their web page:

SEA FOAM can be found in many of the following auto parts stores:
All Pro
Auto Value
Big A Auto Parts
Bumper to Bumper
CARQUEST Auto Parts
Midway Auto Supply
NAPA Auto Parts
O'Reilly Auto Parts
Parts Plus
Pronto Auto Parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have had SeaFoam recommended from multiple sources... You can also do an online search and see how many people (from bikers to boat captains) are using it...
It is little bit early for me to say whether it was helpful or not. I am monitoring the oil consumption, mpg, etc... Will post more once the numbers are in :D
 

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Cleaning your EGR and replacing your PCV valve will also have positive ripples on your oil consumption. So clean that EGR!!
 
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