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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, first post here, thanks for having me!

I've came upon the site after doing some research on a first gen 1990 Trooper I have been thinking about buying, and was impressed with the detail and apparent technical knowledge you all show with the vehicles.

Here is the low down on the car:

1990 Isuzu Trooper four door
2.8 V6
5spd
200k on the clock, owner says as far as he is aware, valve covers have never been off
Very minor rust
After market wheels with 31" tires
Interior is together, carpets are shot.

Here's where I need the scoop - the vehicle does not currently run.The truck hasn't been driven in a couple of years. The radiator went on the car, and he parked it about 18 months ago. He has a radiator from a u-pull-it place, but it is of unknown condition (probably junk). I have a lot of expirience with 60* GM V6s, and know a bit of what to expect, but I am looking at buying a vehicle that I can't hear run, and I know it'll need some things to get back on the road in addition to going over the cooling system. What I need help with is looking for trouble spots on the vehicle that would preclude me from purchasing it. I am thinking $600 would net me the truck. I do not need to drive it right away, I could work on it as time allows. My initial thoughts were to put a battery in it, and turn the motor over just to know it'll spin, but that's probably as far as I could get in the guy's driveway (no leak-down tests, etc.). So in a nutshell, what should I look for in addition to what is obviously wrong with the vehicle that will usually have to be done on the truck, or that makes it a poor project starting point?

Thanks for the help gents, it's appreciated!
 

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Rust is the big issue with them. Check the chassi for rust. i would get that oil out and nice new stuff in with a new filter i would proberly buy all new filter two fuel as its been sitting a while god knows what state the fuel is in.
I would turn ebgine by hand if possible make sure it turn before starting, and mind those belt stting for so long might be pershied or weak
 

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drinksoptional has some good advice.

First thing I would do is to get all the belts loose. They have probably welded themselves to the pulleys with rust. You just have to break them loose from the pulleys. Leave them on.

To make things easier, you can take off the AC belt, and the belt to the smog pump. If belts have welded themselves to pulleys, it would be easier to just cut those two off.

Then put it in nuetral and try to turn it over by hand.

If it turns over by hand, put a battery in, and try to turn it over with the starter.

Don't skip a step, and go straight to the starter. Make sure the belts are loose, and turn it over by hand, first.

It doesn't take much to take out the spark plugs and do a compression check. Do it. Don't accept the car/price, without doing so. Nothing fancy, no leakdown, etc... Just a quick compression check.

If you know ahead of time, what you are going to do, then it won't take long to get it all done, right there where it's parked.

If it will turn over easily, and has acceptable compression, (I'd say anything over 120 is good for this engine if it has never had anything done to it.), then drag that puppy home and get to work.

:D :D :D
 

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Great! Possibly another Trooper enthusiast on the trails.

Where are you in VA, if I may ask? There are several of us in NoVA and Maryland. Plus a few in Richmond area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SAS said:
Great! Possibly another Trooper enthusiast on the trails.

Where are you in VA, if I may ask? There are several of us in NoVA and Maryland. Plus a few in Richmond area.
I'm in Fredericksburg actually. I appreciate the advice gents, I've got some homework to do, and will probably do a compression test on the motor, but with 200k on the clock, I might just buy it with the intention of doing a 3.4 crate motor in it and building a crawler.
 

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I think the biggest concern is to check out the rust on the frame. Take a good look at the spring brackets. The bodies are ususally the last thing the rust hits. The five speed is a great thing. If you have past experience on the 2.8 then you know what to do. Offer the guy 500 bucks and put it on a trailer and take the rig home.
 

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Once you have determined that frame rust is not an issue and that the motor isn't locked and the belts are free, the next thing to check is the fuel itself. If its been sitting the fuel may have clogged the carb or injectors, which ever it has. Change the fuel filter and check that the fuel is still good and the lines are not all gunked up.
 

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I'd say you should get it for less than $600 if its not running. Got mine for $800 running great with 130k...
 

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If you plan to run the motor for a bit before doing the swap I would put new oil in it and then prime the system with a drill motor before attempting to run it. The cheap and easy way is to find an old distributor. Get all the guts out and then cut the top off so you have the bottom end to plug into the block and then you can fit an 8MM socket with an extension through the hole and drive the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey again gents-

I am heading over to look at the truck again tomorrow. I'll be paying special attention to the frame and floor for rot, and also spinning the motor over by hand, then dropping in a battery and spinning the motor to get a compression measurement. Does anyone know what size socket I'll need for the crank pulley? I'm trying not to have to drag the whole set down. Also, once I get the battery in, I can check the electrical, any pointers?

Finally, the truck needs a radiator for sure, is just any reman'd deal suitable, or is there a general preference among the board members?

Hopefully I'll be dragging it home some point this weekend, and get some pics up if it all goes well. Thanks again for the advice and the info!
 

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TheConvert said:
Does anyone know what size socket I'll need for the crank pulley? I'm trying not to have to drag the whole set down.
I can't remember whether it was 22 or 24 MM.

I believe 22.
 
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