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IMO, Mobil1 is the best oil made. It's expensive when compared to 'regular' oil but the cost of oil changes over the life of the vehicle is minimal no matter what oil you choose. If you're buying Mobil1 buy good oil filters too. I like WIX (also sold as NAPA Gold), but almost anything is better than a Fram.

If your engine has a valve tick, use Mobil1 0W30 until the tick goes away, then 5W30. Sometimes 0W30 is hard to find and 0W40 is everywhere. The 0W40 is OK if you can't find 0W30. I wouldn't use the 0W20 that's also common.

When it's time to replace your differential oils, Mobil1 75W90 would definitely be worth the money--I paid <$35 for 4 quarts of it when plain ol' 80W90 gear oil would have been <$20. $15/30,000 miles = $0.0005/mile. That's 1/20th of a cent!

If you have a manual transmission, Mobil1 5W30 in the tranny/t-case is the way to go. Again, you're talking about a few extra dollars every 30,000 miles. Well worth the money. I think that the t-case in automatics calls for 5W30 as well.

I also use synthetic grease for wheel bearings, u-joints, driveshafts, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Tom think I'll go with 10w30. I use fram oil filters all the time even on my Stang GT. I got 1 here now for the Troop- PH3593A with sure grip.... :shock:
 

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I'm a big fan of the man made slippery stuff. I used Mobil in my older vehicles. But I like Amsoil I use it in my 98 Passport. Change the filter every 7,500 miles (and top off) and change the oil every 15,000.

I'm at 90,000 miles and no issues whatsoever. No tick, no oil usage issues.

I take care of my mom's 99 Civic SI and she's a bigger believer in Amsoil than I am. She runs it just like they tell you to. Which is 12,500 and a filter change and top off, then change it at 25,000 miles. She has over 100,000 miles on hers with just a handful of oil changes. No oil useage and no problems of any kind.

Yeah read up on the Fram crap, I wouldn't use Fram anything. Haven't for a long time. I like the Puroilator preimum filter, K&N, and in the passport I use Amsoil filters.

Joe
 

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I'm runnin the (E-2605-1) K&N high flow air filter. I bought it at Auto Zone.

I'm not sure if you are interested, but they also started making an oil filter for the 2.6 as well. It will set you back around 12 bucks. Ouch :shock:
 

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I just changed my oil today and a little before that i put some Seafoam in the crankcase and changed the oil. I used 10w40 synthetic and Fram extra guard, (sure grip), I also change the oils every 3 thousand miles or 2, when ever i have time to.
 

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Firefighter,

You really meed to read up on Fram filters and the problems they have caused. I truely doubt you will ever use another Fram oil filter after you read up on them. Just a friendly warning.

Joe
 

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Just thought I'd add another voice to the Fram oil filter debate. I used to use them in my 79 Chevy LUV. I had thought the old Isuzu G180 motor was just getting worn out because I was getting extended rattle from the oil pump on startup and some even after warm up. I came across that filter comparison info and switched to a Purolator PureONE filter. The startup rattle went away about 95%, and the after warm up noises were gone completely. When I took off the last fram filter, I could see the drainback valve/gasket was not holding up well at all, so the startup rattle was the motor starving for oil while it tried to pump through everything again. My theory is the Purolator just didn't let things drain back to the pan like the Fram did. The next oil change after the switch the oil looked remarkably cleaner than it had before as well.

Its not just about the filter surface area, it is about quality of construction too.
 

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In the absence of a dealer filter, I'd go with a brand called Wix.

http://www.wixfilters.com

In my area, Oreilley's carries them. You may have to call around to find them.

Purolator sells a good filter as well. Pep Boys and Sears auto centers sell them.

The main thing is to shy away from Fram.
 

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Holy cow! :shock:

Bump for those who may not have read about Fram. Unbelievable! :?
 

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So let me see if I've got this right....

I used Mobil 1 once, in the hopes it wouldn't disappear like regular oil. No dice.

So, seeing as Mobil 1 is, by all accounts, the best oil out there, I'm wondering if I should combine that advice with some other advice I've found:

1) Pour half a bottle of Sea Foam into crankcase. Run 20 minutes. Drain. Replace oil and filter. (Use cheap oil. You'll see why in a minute)

2) Repeat step 1)

3) Repeat step 1) again.

4) Replace oil filter with Mobil 1 or K&N filter (avoid Fram like the plague), then fill up with Mobil 1 oil.

Think that will help clean out the ol' guts (and rings) enough to help the oil problem?
 

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Seafoam is good. But, what problem are you trying to solve?

Zaphod said:
So let me see if I've got this right....
I used Mobil 1 once, in the hopes it wouldn't disappear like regular oil. No dice.
Do you have a leak? If you do, adding a detergent like seafoam will just make it worse. Or are you burning oil? In which case I would recommend seafoam.
 
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