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SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT

77K views 281 replies 75 participants last post by  matthewvillion 
#1 ·
I have designed, fabricated, tested and patented a new set of parts that allow IFS to articulate in ways that were not possible before.

The parts attach to the OEM locations and require no drilling to install.

The design is such that the two torsion bars are now semi-connected and interact with each other...

The SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT allows one tire to be at FULL COMPRESSION while the other tire is at FULL DROOP, AND more importantly while the tires are in these extreem positions, the weight is ballanced between the two tires MUCH MORE evenly, and the vehical remains much more level, while increasing traction....Typical OEM syle IFS does not allow this as much.

Also, as one front tire climes an obstical and compresses that side of the suspension, the KIT transfers force to the other front tire, pushing it downward...
This does a few things...First, the tire climing the obstical has its spring rate decreased, allowing it to stuff farther and easier and sooner up into the wheelweell untill it reaches maximum compression (bump stop)... at the same time, the tire on the opposite side has its spring rate increased, pushing it down into the terrain...

For example, With this Kit, You can drop one front tire into a 4" deep rut while the other front tire is sitting on a 4" tall rock, and maintain EQUAL tire preasure on both fronts, and maintain a more level vehical as well.

Included is a SECUREMENT PIN that allows the KIT and the susension to function as per OEM design with the PIN installed (for on road use)...Remove the pin for off road use and MUCH MORE ARTICULATION.

Here are a few pictures.









The last pic is of the parts istalled on a crossmember.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
They are availble for all isuzu...and other makes and models coming very soon.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The securement pin diameter is 1/2"...I guess it does look kinda skinny next to the other beefy parts. The steel is 3/4" thick.

The torsion bar keys (spline dia./count) are slighty different from year to year and for certain isuzu models...But, I have them in stock...It SHOULD fit a Gen 1 Trooper...I will verify this for sure, soon. Some Rodeos have a removeable drop out crossmember, however the overall torsion bar design is the same...

psguardian....thanks for the detailed explaination...very helpfull.

As far as the durability, I have had it installed on my Daliy driver for almost for over 5 months(with the pin removed)....I have jumped, bottomed out, bounced, cornered on two wheels with this kit installed...with ZERO issues...
There are greasable zerk fittings at all the wear points on the kit...And there is no movement or wear while the PIN is installed (on road use)

It takes between 1-3 hrs to install, depending on your tools, skills, and how rusty/dirty the underside of your isuzu is. :roll:
NO DRILLING REQUIRED.

Cost is $299 + shipping...About 35 lbs. or approx $48 for UPS in USA

Yes, I wheel the VX VERY hard...quite often...
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Bansil said:
Very interesting.
I have a few questions.
1)how much wear has the crossmember taken,as the t-bar adjusters rotate on it.
2)how much or how quick is the front body roll,since it has very little resistance with pin removed?
3)very cool thinking outside the box.

And as for the rack/pinion durabiliity,mountainair joed has solved it and so did I,its verry simple and costs nothing.and I truly believe tha way we beat on the trucks racing,it works.
1) There is very little wear here (I dont even think the paint has worn off on mine) as the forces are changed now and the KEY actually "rides" on the two plates on either side that are mounted against the frame, and secured with a bolt...These plates have a greasable zerk fitting, for use OFF ROAD...In theory, the only movement or wear that would occur, only happens for the brief time you have the pin removed...Lastly, the amount of movement is similar to the movement between leaf springs (not much).
Keep it greased when you go offroading and it will last for many, many years. :lol:

2) There is a noticable amount of lean or body roll, BUT it is kept at bay by the swaybar, somewhat....I dont recommend removing the swaybar, or driving on road at high speed with the Pin removed.

3) Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
BigSwede said:
We'll have to get practiced at diving under there to install the pin, while your buddy rocks the vehicle to get the holes lined up for the pin.[/quote]

LOL...kinda like un-hookin your swaybar disconnects.... :wink:

FYI...A inside operated, cable-activated, PIN is in the works, but will cost more money...
Similar to an E-brake handle....These will also be avaliable as an "upgrade" to the existing kit later on...Hope to have them ready. In a couple months.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
RamAirZ said:
it won't help with the loss of droop as that is a product of cranking tbars
True, however it DOES help with the compression travel on lifted rigs...especially the earlier ones.

After lifting, the torsion bars are, may times, too stiff to compress one front tire on an obstical, all the way to the bump stop....
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
On early v6 troopers and rodeos, WITH AUTOS there is an issue with the exhaust being in the way....the exhaust will need to be modified.

Also, Rodeos/amigos have no crossmember under the T-bar keys, so the kit, for these, is a bit different than the pictured one.

It does fit ALL 4 cylinder isuzus, and 96+ isuzus w/o modifacation to the exhaust.

I will post a full list all all years and models soon...
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Drift said:
Would they fit this set up?
If so can I have the UK franchise 8) :lol:





YES! It will fit that setup perfectly...
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
psguardian said:
VX1032 said:
Dude, he said without modification to the exhuast, not the fact that it is missing a cross member.

I bought a kit for my 88 trooper and he is making a crossmember for it. He has a couple vehicles up at his place and he is maiking sure the kit works.

Allen is making our trucks better offroad, and I understand you may be going from high to low, but give it a bit of time. the kit has been on the market 2 weeks, might want to give him a chance to get all the models worked out.

The good thing is that there are not a lot of big differences between our trucks thoughout the years.
I understand that his contribution(s) are going to be an improvement to our vehicles off-road, I'm glad that he has put his resources & ingenuity towards that end. He is falling short on some serious points though. Its not just me that he has torqued off, it seems I'm just the first (maybe only) one to call him on it.

Its the shoddy advertising & lack of preparation that irks me. If he's still in R&D testing & we are to be the test subjects I'm fine with that... Tell it how it is up front.

I beta test software in my spare time, some times I even jump in on the alpha testing (rarely). When I install beta software I know Its beta cuz it was stated as such. This was billed as a FINISHED PRODUCT!

I'm glad he isn't just going to leave this to the rigs that came with cross-members @ the torsion bars, that is a major point in his favor & I thank you for bringing it to light on his behalf. These are the kinds of things we all need to know. If I hadn't prompted you to come to his defense would you or he have told us about the cross member under construction?

~psguardian
PSGUARDIAN...... At the top of page three, I already said that WILL BE a kit for isuzus w/o a crosmember, AND IT WILL BE DIFFERENT....I guess I should have been more clear...

I AM ALSO MAKING A KIT FOR OTHER ISUZUS' ALSO, THE ONES THAT DONT HAVE A CROSSMEMBER.

Why are you saying I have shoddy advertising???? :?
Should I throw these on EBAY or in a 4WD magazine???
Don't worry a website is coming soon... :shock:

Lack of prepareation??? now thats getting just rude!!!!
How about your lack of understanding on the amount of money, design, time, energy, sweat, thought, legwork that goes into something like this...
WAY DIFFERENT THAN BETA COMPUTER WORK...(why you would even try to compare the two is beyond me)

When my work is done I do not just get to click "copy" or "save" to create another one...like you get to do. :twisted:

I can see how its easy for someone that sits on their puter all day to point fingers at others, for not posting enough info...Sorry, but I don't /can't weld and type at the same time :lol:

But I DO log on to this site daily to try and answer questions and catch up.

Where am I falling short on a few points?

You seem awefull critical for someone who doesn't even know me....

Now you have me wondering if I shoulda just kept these parts for sale on the VX site...??? :roll:

I do not have some big company, with fancy bling-bling "look-at-me-now" advertising...I build these kits at my buddies machine shop, and finish them in my small shop....ONE SET AT A TIME...
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
psguardian said:
VX1032 said:
I am sure he would have, but Allen, as you can see from his posts, doesn't post that often. He has had this up on the vehicross.info for months and maybe I am just used to it. I like to think he is busy in the garage building my kit and crossmember, rather then wasting time watching tv and posting on the board.

Just give him time and I am sure everything will be right in the end.
Yes he does seem to be a sparse participant in the forums, which from a fab workers stand point is probly a good thing, here is a question for him, I'm hoping you will pass along.

For those of us with two piece rear drive shafts will deleting the carrier bearing & going to a single piece rear drive shaft interfere with this kit?

~psguardian
So.... now your asking me to decide that if you modify your truck with a different driveline, it my KIT will fit....???? LOL
:roll: WTF???

Why dont you post a pic of your modifacation....Then mabey folks could see what your talking about....
And mabey Ill be able to answer your question....
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
psguardian said:
Stating there will be & seeing it happen are two different things;
VX1032 has confirmed that the alternate kit is already in the works. On this I am glad my skepticism was wrong.

In regard to the shoddy advertising & lack of prep work;
It may very well have been rude, being in business you will end up with rude customers & have to deal with them. Consider me a training exercise, the things I have brought up are valid complaints from a potential customer. I am glad you're open to dialog & are addressing them, however attacking in return is not the best path to solidifying a potential customers mind into becoming a paying customer. In the same post that you stated there would be an alt kit, you also stated the current kit "It does fit ALL 4 cylinder isuzus" this is wrong & therefore misinformation & poor advertising.

Fab work vs software;
The titles of the stages: development, testing, patenting, advertising, etc are different from field to field yes, however the mechanics of the processes are essentially the same. Since you're still building equipment to cover your "fits all Isuzus" statement you're still in research & development, that or you simply assumed it would fit & are now doing your best to avoid false advertising claims. I gave you the benefit of the doubt here & guessed you were still amidst R&D testing. The physical work is way different, but the process is the same.

I'm not pointing a finger at you for not posting, there are plenty of members with low post count, I don't care about that. I'm pointing a finger at you for putting out misinformation & for not being fully ready before labeling this kit as a finished product.

Questioning your placement of this kit on the Planet;
I apologize if my criticism has shaken your confidence in your choice to bring this product to market, no smart business man would consider pulling a product or second guessing its placement in such a rich pool of potential buyers over one individual, unless that individual brought out hidden truths about an unworthy product. Thats not what I'm trying to do at all BTW, I just want the right information the first time round, 2nd time round will do in this case.

Small work places;
As I said in my response to VX1032's defense of you & your work, I really am glad that you've put your resources (time, money, supplies, shop space) & your ingenuity towards creating & refining this kit. Look at it this way, if I wasn't interested in this kit I wouldn't have come back to read this thread over & over.

Fitment in combination to other mods;
Since we are mostly all of a modifying mindset here, yes I am asking if your kit will work with other proven mods that people like to do. I am speaking of a semi-popular mod that people have done to eliminate the carrier bearing, due to it being a weak link in the drive train.

Here is an example under a 1st Gen Trooper
maxwell417 said:
I cut out the crossmember. And had the driveshaft retubed for less than the carrier bearing would have cost. And got rid of driveline vibrations :)

.....
~psguardian
Well your pic shows nothing anywhere near the torsion bars...LOL...So I guess you can be the guennie pig on that yourself....

Your still misreading my post where I said a KIT WILL FIT 4 CYL W\O MODIFACATION TO THE EXHAUST.....NOWHERE IN THAT SENTENCE DID I MENTION THE CROSSMEMBER…

So quit telling folks that I am giving out misinformation....YOUR WRONG!
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
dman4486 said:
I still don't know why everyone keeps posting about the one piece ds. That cross member is a completely different piece.

this picture says it all....even if you had a 50" diameter drive shaft it wouldn't hit the cross member O.P. is adding.....it goes under the transfer-case output to the rear.

PS this is a stolen pic from another thread.
Thanks for posting it...It shows that this will not be an issue...
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
Here is a couple of Vids...I will throw some more up soon.





 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
arcangel said:
put me down as interested as well. where and when can I order one of these for a 1st gen rodeo? how much more will the cable actuated one cost?
:lol:
Figure at least $100 more for a cable activated one, but it won't be available till after the first of the year at the soonest...
 
Discussion starter · #110 ·
BigSwede said:
Really cool and weird to see the body roll controlled by the rear axle instead of the front...intriguing product to say the least.

Hey Al, do you still have your rear sway bars on the VX?
I had the rear swaybar on in the vids...but had it removed in the still pics....
I take it on or off depending on which trails im running that week :wink:
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
Camiel said:
Nice vid and pics!!

I really like your product!

What is the weight, of the one without crossmember and cable actuated pin?
That would give us a shipping indication :D

Can you also give us a tape measurement of your max. front travel and the mods you did (spacers, diff. drop, shaved bumpstops etc.)?

Camiel
35lbs :naka: w/o crossmember or cable release....

Somewhere around 8-9" of front wheel travel.... :lol:
2" diff drop... 8)
Upper Ball joint flip mod on top of 1.5" spacers :thumbright:
REMOVED "droop" bumpstops completly. :wink:
"Shaved" approx 3/8" off lower compression bump stop. :idea:
front swaybar is still attached. :shock:
 
Discussion starter · #115 ·
I thought of useing a coil spring also, however, I think it would have to have higher spring rate than the Torsion bars (and the swaybar combined)....for it to work correctly....otherwise the coil spring would just compress BEFORE pushing down on the opposing wheel.
 
Discussion starter · #118 ·
Hmmmm....very interesting....in the above drawing, the way I see it...
The coil springs would be "fighting" the articulation the same way a swaybar does....
 
Discussion starter · #125 ·
arcangel said:
yeah i got the part about it being his invention. I figured he had a store or something along those lines. I'll just pm him then shall I?
I will try to have a simple website up in a week or so...for now send me a PM...
Thanks.
 
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