mrd6 said:
have you bought that box yet?
I only ask because it really is the enclosure that makes or breaks a subwoofer system. Most pre-made enclosures just arent that great unfortunately :?
I couldn't agree more
I made my own*** and bent and painted the grilles too, but then I have a table saw in my living room and most people don't. Sometimes I envy them. I'd advise he at least checks that the box he's getting is within the mfr recommended size and type, then get a tube of liquid nails or better yet (since liquid nails is now weaker than the old days) some PL construction adhesive, and after cleaning any loose dirt or sawdust inside lay a bead of that adhesive on all the joints and lines inside- with some kind of glove on follow the bead with your finger to force it in any cracks. It'll help.
Can I say one thing that is never said enough, SECURE YER BOX WELL because in a collision it becomes a deadly projectile. The forward cargo hooks (in the rodeo) work perfectly, better yet bolts right through the floor into T nuts in the box would be better (and I my do this to mine now that I'm thinking of it)
Some years ago a Washington Redskins player was killed when the SUV he was riding in the back seat of rolled over, all were belted in and the other players had minor injuries. The single sub in a box in the rear flew forward as it rolled and broke his neck.
***some construction details of that box: it's 2 x 15 sealed, about 4.15 cu ft. 3/4" Oak plywood as MDF is too heavy and I am in a humid climate, wanted durability. The front side is the exact angle of the seat. The box was assembled with PL and duracoat drywall screws, the screws coated with PL into predrilled and countersunk holes. Inside there is 1" Stainless extrusion (bolted with machine screws and nuts) on the soundboard from top to bottom, with a corresponding piece on the back wall, with another piece bolted and loctited between (F-R) to firmly brace the surface the subs mount to. (they're mounted metal to metal on T nuts of course) The inside then covered with dynamat to help deaden it to the level of MDF, sealed with RTV, then sprayed with about 10 coats of undercoating. Have about 3 lbs of fiberfill. The outside was coated with a thin layer of fiberglass matting and epoxy resin, lightly sanded then covered with 1/4" foam and thick vinyl with 3M 92 adhesive between each. Because of the 'glass and resin I wanted to keep the staples for the vinyl to a minimum so the ends were capped with 6061 Al sheet, with countersunk SS screws to hold it all down and Al handles are mounted to T nuts on each end. Grills made from perforated 16 gauge steel mount to embedded 1/4" x 20 inserts, SS machine screws with a 1 1/4" al tube spacer so they tighten to metal, not the vinyl. Quick disconnect via 4 cond. trailer plug.
Subs are DEI competition prototypes I got from them when I was sponsored as an IASCA competitor. Sound great but nothing special nowadays, in the world of FI's and DD's with 30lb motors- but they want 1kw minimum to play hard, I'm done with 2 alternator/3-4 battery setups. With just 120 a/d/s watts per sub(i.e; it's more but they never bragged) they are as loud as you can stand and the voltmeter sags as much as you'd want even with the A/C and lights off. Oh and in case anyone wonders, the interior color of the 95 Rodeo in this shade is MUSHROOM. WTF? Go find that in vinyl.
So now you know or you're happily asleep. BTW the hearse in my avatar had one I made with a full jacket of silica sand. Called it the dead box.
