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This may cause your core to be rejected from your builder if there is indeed block damage. Might have to pickup another core from a junkyard.
Never ends sometimes!
Dick
 

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So working on putting on the brackets for all the belt drive stuff and there is this weird horn looking piece.

I know it is the coolant pipe but the o-ring on the end was loose and fell off. I looked in the engine gasket kit but didn't see one that was somewhat oval shape like this one.

Anyone know what this is called or where to get a replacement o-ring?

Thanks much. Project is progressing but slow going.

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Is this a california car? I know the trooper came with configurations that included more or less emissions equipment depending on what region it was being sent to, possibly alongside different ECU maps. (mine has AU written on it, so i speculate that's the reason why.)

From what i hear, the california model of this car is especially notorious for being the worst case of vacuum line spaghetti the trooper had to offer, and for having most the engine bay stuffed with emissions crap.

Aside from a charcoal canister, Mine has very little emissions equipment to speak of. no EGR, no smog pump, just a PCV valve(of course) and a charcoal canister.
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My head doesn't have the mounting holes, either. While i don't know if the EGR was removed or not when one of the previous 10 owners put in the calmini tri-Y's, i certainly do know that mine never came with a smog pump.

Here's hoping this helps clarify things.

(P.S double lip seals, much like ball bearings are a highly standardized item, you may either have to look for a number moulded into it and look that up, or take dimensions and reference them with a table.)
 

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I would think the gasket kit would of had that O ring, may have to call Jerry and see if he can help out. As far as the head goes, as the 2.6 progressed they did away with that design of the air pump. With the newer cats you didn't need them. Where you have to pass smog, it may be an issue. If they do a physical inspection it would not pass. If it is only a tailpipe inspection I think it will, maybe put a new cat on it too.
 

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As for the O-ring, I went to NAPA and they just tried a few random ones from their kit until we found one that fit. Couple bucks.

On the head, a lot of the new manufactured heads do not have the holes for the smog pump. I deleted mine since we do not have emissions tests here but if you have to have it you will need a new head or have a machine shop drill and tap the holes.

My head came from Clearwater and frankly I never asked about that so was just lucky as I planned to eliminate the smog stuff anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thank you gentlemen. I figured it was something like that.

Not sure if this is a california car. The only sticker on the ECM box says "FED"

Regardless, I think I will follow what you guys have done and just eliminate the smog pump and metal rail and get a new catalytic converter. Where I live, there is no dyno or inspection. The only emissions tests are the sniffer probes in the tail pipe.

I really appreciate the help.
 

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The first one is an oil seal, probably front or rear crank, maybe front cam. Your engine builder already put those in. The last one was an exhaust for I think a Honda. I have thrown several of those away
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
hessmess said:
The first one is an oil seal, probably front or rear crank, maybe front cam. Your engine builder already put those in. The last one was an exhaust for I think a Honda. I have thrown several of those away
Thanks Dick. You have an uncanny ability to put someone's mind at ease with just a few sentences.
 

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So the Haynes manual says to use sealant with the rocker cover on the cover-to-head surface, especially in the bolt holes. Posts from long timers on here range from none to just using it under the half moon rubber piece at the back.

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On the large aluminum crank cover shell, a previous repair had used orange rtv and no gasket.

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Any opinions or experiences? Yea or nay?

Just thought I would check.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I've heard JLEMOND say those gaskets are for the 2wd oilpans and will leak if you put them on a trooper pan. He reckons RTV is the way to go with these things, and that's what i did with mine.

No leaks so far, only had trouble with the stupid gasket on my lower pan not sealing up right. probably because it's warped a bit or something.
 
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On the valve cover, I used RTV in the rubber plug and just a dab on the front in the corners where it goes over the cam seal. On the oil pan my kit didn't have a gasket. Used a RTV instead, never leaked.
 

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You fellas want to see something crazy? The viewpoint is the block laying on it's side looking at the crankshaft.

I noticed these two bolts when I took the crank cover off. The crazy part is I never touched them. They were that loose on their own. :shock:

Yikes. But it ran great. I know that doesn't make sense, but it did. And the new crate motor doesn't have them. Any idea what they are for?

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Never noticed that odd bolt on mine but maybe it was there.

The green seal thing I had the same question. Like Dick said it doesn't apply to your motor.

For the valve cover I put RTV under the little half moon and between the half moon and valve cover and then over the hump where the camshaft connects to the sprocket. I've had no leaks so far.

Oil pan I had a gasket like yours which was a one piece rubber and it did not fit at all. I also had two little rubber half moons that fit in the groove where the crankshaft lies. I used a liberal amount of RTV on both sides of this little half moon and also a liberal amount on the oil pan itself.

Another problem I had was my gasket for the little top hat oil pan was not the right shape so I had to cut part off and reposition it. I used liberal RTV here as well.

Good Luck
 

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Oh man, that is funny. At least it didn't keep you up all night! Or did it?
 

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Well, this is frustrating.

I had a socket wrench on the oil pickup tube bolt and caught my foot on an air hose. Stumbled, grabbed the wrench and twisted the bolt for the pickup tube right off into the crank. And it broke on the tightening in, not the loosening out. I am worried about getting it out of there. Holy crap.

Anyone have any suggestions or amazing broken bolt removal ideas? I guess I will try a fluted extractor tomorrow.

Oof.

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