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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:oops: Hi, I need help! This weekend I was changing the timing belt on my 2000 Rodeo 3.2 DOHC when I screwed up. I did not line up the two cams and crank before taking the timing belt off-STUPID.
Here's my reasoning: I thought, if I take the timing belt off and mark where the two cams and the crank were, I'd slip the new belt on and be okay.
Here is where I went wrong: I didn't take the plugs out, then when the belt came off, my original marks didn't line up anymore. So, I then took the plugs out and moved the cams into the right place and moved the crank into the right mark. I put everything back together, started the truck up and it sounds like hell!
I'm freakin' this thing is supposed to get me back and forth to school for the next year. Does anyone know if, for a fact, the engine is interference or not? I keep getting yes and no. What do I need to do to get the enigne back in time?
Thanks in advance for all the help, DAVE
 

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Check out JLEMOND's instructions for timing the DOHC in this thread http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=7674

It is NON interference (there is indeed much conflicting info on this topic) - quoting from JLEMOND, a recognised authority "THE ISUZU V6 ALL OF THEM FROM 92 THRU THE 2004 ARE ALL NON INTERFERENCE ENGS EXCEPT ONE THE NEW 3.5 DI ENG THE MOST EXP TO FIX AND IT IS AN INTERFERENCE ENG" from http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=11647

Here is a timing diagram posted by trooperbc


P.S. Welcome to the site :!: - I just noticed it was your first post. There are very helpful and friendly people on here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
8) Thank you so much for the reply. That article was very helpful and I'll try it. If anyone else has anything else to add, I want to hear it. Did the fact that I still had my plugs change anything?
 

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Nah, the plugs don't really matter. Usually by the time you get to removing the belt the compression has bled off anyway. Some guys can do what you tried to do but you really have to be careful AND lucky....IMHO! The cam is under pressure from the valve springs so unless you are lucky enough to stop the engine in a position where all the forces are balanced there is a good chance that just removing the belt will allow one or both of the timing sprockets to move. Just make sure you use the right timing marks on the rear of the timing cover for your engine. Jerry's write ups are really the best although there are a couple other good ones around too.
Welcome to the Planet! Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:oops: Thanks to all that spent a little time and helped me out. However, I'm not done yet!

Today, I tore the truck apart again and got the belt out again. I have the crank lined up right, now.

According to Jlemond, "the right (passenger side, right?) bank cam sprocket should go thump, thump". My question: I need a little clarification on the thump thump. Do I feel the thump thump, do I hear the thump thump or what? I tried to find a thump today, but I'm just not sure what I'm looking for.

Also, the (left) drivers side cam bank has a mark to the left of the main marking between the cam seals. Is this mark the one on the head, a little behind the cam sprocket?

Also, how do I post pics here?

Does anyone know? My poor Rodeo is still torn apart and I'm sad. Thanks, DAVE [/img]
 

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These Isuzu tech vids are small and a bit rough to keep the file size down. They're instructional
and not for entertainment, so as long as the message gets thru, that's what counts. WMV files only.

This one is for changing the belt if the timing has not been disrupted.
8:12 and 14.2 mb-
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/techvids/timebelt.wmv

This vid is for changing the belt when the timing has been lost.
5:39 and 11.9 mb-
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/techvids/timing2.wmv

Another one for when the timing has been lost showing it in a different way.
4:00 and 4.4 mb-
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/techvids/timing.wmv












Mark Griffin
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You all are unbelievably helpful and I truely appreciate it. I'll study this nfo and hopefully we have some luck. Thanks, DAVE
 

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Every forum needs a newbie like Deermagnet.....awesome post!
 

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Thanks deermagnet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Halleyuya, my Rodeo is back up and runnig like a champ again. The instructions given worked exactlyright. I can;t tell you all how thankful I am that you helped me. Best Regard, DAVE :D
 

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I made the same screw-up Dave, and I wish I had seen this post before now!!! I just finally got my Rodeo back up and running again.

Here it was, I just spent this evening putting together pictures of how I got it to work, but no need to post that now!! This thread says everything and more! Even has videos!

I found that I didn't have to remove the power steering pump pulley, just the front bolts and "shimmy" the pump out of the way. I also didn't have to remove the AC compressor...

:?: What do you use to pull the power steering pump pulley?

:?: Is there a puller that would do that and also pull the timing sprocket off the crankshaft so I can get to the oil seal?
 

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Yes, there are pullers for the PS pulley, you just have to get the right style. Some parts stores "loan" them but you really don't need one unless you are changing the pump.
As for the timing gear on the crank, yes, there is a puller for that, but in my experience, try pulling it forward by gloved hand.......it is a slip fit. If it absolutely will not come off that way, hit it with PB Blaster, let is soak, then the careful use of two wide flat pry bars and prying at the same time (like small nail pullers) it will usually slip it off. DO NOT PRY on the gear flange....it is thin and will break if you do. You need to get a little closer to the crank before prying. Of course, you could get the right tool, but they seem to be extinct in my area. I could not find one the first time I did it. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey this thread is great isn't it!

I did the same thing you did with the PS pump. Remove those two bolts and with a little shimmying you can remove that drivers side timing cover. I did end up cracking the cover when I removed it the second time, but all is well with a good cleaning and some RTV clear.

Also, I posted my own simple step-by-step instructions on helium.com on how to change these timing belts. I'm going to post it here too. Best Regards, DAVE
 

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Ah yes, the timing cover on the driver's side. I cracked it the first time I changed the timing belt (when I did it "right" and didn't lose the timing). I cracked it in three places, and a piece of it fell off. I kept the little piece for 60k miles in the top of my toolbox. It was a small piece behind the fan bracket, and I don't drive off-road :eek: in my Isuzu, so I reckoned not too much dirt would get in there. This time around, at 120k, I put some JB Weld on the parts and they are nicely back together, and I welded the cracks too; now my timing covers are not pretty, but at least they protect the belt! :D

My least favorite part is losing the little grommets and spacers for the t-belt covers. :roll: A couple bounced off into never never land and I had to use some o-rings sitting around the shop plus some RTV to "make" a gasket to fill in for the grommets that went flying.
 

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atfdmike said:
As for the timing gear on the crank, yes, there is a puller for that, but in my experience, try pulling it forward by gloved hand.......it is a slip fit. Hope this helps.
Thanks Mike. I will try it out. Great advice on this forum!
 

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Sorry for pulling this back up again...
I had a loud click coming from what sounded like the front of my 96 rodeo 3.2ltr ,,
From the looks of the VC, the truck has had a engine swapped in before I've had it, (Looks like a stock number written on it with a yellow paint pen)

It sounded alot like a rod knock, but not really,, more like tap in the crank pulley, and I could hear in the the timing belt cover with a screwdriver. I've heard a rod knock before and they sound alot deeper then what I was hearing.

I think its the idler pulley, so I've gotten all the way down to the crank pulley.
I had to stop for the day but my cam pulley's are different then the ones shown in the above illustration. My cam pulley's look like plastic with a large flat center in them. I can get some pictures of them if needed. Also my engine has what looks like a cam positioning sensor on the left cam pulley that looks like a plug thats bolted down to the timing cover.

Another thing while I was turning the crank bolt (read spinning the crank and engines internals ) I could have sworn the belt jumped a tooth or two..

What does this tell you guys?? Do I have another year engine?? Do you guys think I'm on the right track with the idler pulley??? What about the differences in the cam pulleys??????

TIA,,, jt
 
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