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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here goes.
Ever since Jan or Feb I have been working on this every weekend just about, real slow to make sure I got it all done right.
When I got my truck back from the shop (clutch job ... again) I noticed the temp Never went down. It was running real hot and I couldn't drive it anywhere.
And it was cold outside too!
So that had me thinking, the coolant leaks I would notice from time to time had to be the culprit or a clogged heater core... something was not letting the water flow around the engine.
I checked the water levels and started the truck back up and still ran hot. :evil:
My next option was to pull the thermostat and replace it. I tested the old one and it opened slowly but at least it opened. :blackeye:

I still put in the new thermostat because it opened much quicker and it wasn't a pain to get at and replace. That may be different scenario on the DOHC but on the SOHC 3.2 the boss is right up front.
I then started the truck up and still got cold air through the vents with the heater on. :twisted:
So I decided to pull the heater core lines and run some water through them and boy oh boy, did some nasty stuff shoot out.

I thought my problem was solved and then.... I still didn't get any hot air coming through the Vents and the thermostat boss never got hot to the touch on the flow side.
:evil: :twisted:

Grrrr soooo I'm thinking it had to be the radiator clogged up with something.
And I learned something in the process too, Don't ever use regular water in your coolant. Only use distilled water or real coolant or both! And never use a stop leak!!!
I'm pretty convinced that it is all my fault for not being diligent with my water/coolant.
The leak is the same damn thing we've all delt with, the O-rings on the water pipe below the manifolds were the culprit again and it was time to do this job all over one more time.

Here is where it gets over the top.
Since I had to pull the radiator and also pull the intake manifolds to get to the O-rings I decided to do my timing belt and valve cover gaskets too and every damn thing on the way in.
:drunken: :drunken:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are a few pictures to remind me where everything goes.
The good thing here is, if you get the wiring harness out and back in just right, its pretty obvious where everything goes and gets connected.

The evap side and the gas lines (flow and return are right next to eachother)

You can see where I already replaced the thermostat.
One thing to note is beneath the fat pipe, hiding is a little hard line that I had to clean out. Its probably no wider diameter than a Q-tip. Remember this for later.
You can see a smaller hose going to it in this pic.

I unhooked the air box, air hose, maf, throttle body, EGR, EGR pipe, Engine control module, Evap lines, all air hoses and then stuck rags in all the ports so nothing Falls in!.
Unbolted the Fuel rail, unplugged each fuel injector and moved the harness out of the way


Yes my engine is dirty. I used to go wheeling all the time. Hell we used to laugh and say that the dirt was keeping everything together!
:drunken: :albino:

Here is my part and I tried to keep everything together, all the nuts/bolts with each piece of hardware to make it easier to put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now here is where it gets dirty.
I started to pull all the water lines so I could see where a possible clog was and here is the bad news.
Some of my hard lines are decaying from the inside out.
This the oil cooler hard lines going to and from the engine.

Got the water pipe out and the lower manifold and started to take inventory of where I was.


I sent a note to Jerry to see if he had some new hard lines.
Here is the illustration in the manual. One KEY difference in some of our 3.2's is the position of the oil cooler inlet / outlet ports. The book does NOT show both varieties, on top and on the sides.
It just shows the one type on top.


Here is the illustration on how the water pipe and y-pipe go together with the O-rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took the timing covers off to inspect the timing belt and even though it looks good, I honestly do not remember how old it is.

So I decided to dive in and replace it anyhow.

I pulled the alternator to see how all the water lines went to the engine and also to make more room to work.

Now here is the nasty part!
Check out the carbon build up in the plenum and the lower manifolds!
I found a guy down the street who runs a head machine shop and makes racing heads.
He said he could dip and clean my intake of the sticky carbon and build up for $40!!
Remember these shots for later after I pick them back up!









Mike's Racing Heads' shop::::
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also decided to send off my injectors to get cleaned and tested.
There is a guy up in VA who does them for $20 each and you get a pretty good test print out also plus the injectors get fresh O-rings.

I sent those off in the mail and then got back to the water job.
I pulled the lower pipe, yes there are two pipes in there, A fat one and a skinnier one.

The y-pipe in the back wasn't pretty either.

There is sitting water and gunk in the middle of the block.
If you ever get this far into the 3.2 you will notice that there is little weep holes in the front and the back so that if you EVER have leak with the O-rings, the water can come out the front or the back of the block and not build up. If it does build up, its because the weep holes are clogged up, which if you are familiar with this scenario, makes the leak drip inconsistently, making it hard to diagnose.

This is a shot of the y-pipe mating surface with some of the gasket still there.

I still had Isuzu OE gaskets from a few years ago that I never put on. Now is the time!
Dont ask me how I got my phone back there to take a pic!

You really need to wipe these clean because if your valve covers are like mine, there is oil and grease back here

Its really a blind job that you have to keep inspecting to make sure its clean either by touch or with a cell ph camera.

No turning back now!
got the valve covers off and pulled all the remaining water hoses.

Engine is getting pretty naked now

Check out the spark plug seals. The old style is up front and doesn't have a deep seat to it. The new ones are at the top of the photo.
The depth on the tube is the same, but the fluted flaired rubber makes for a better seal IMO

One thing I noticed was how hard my old ones were, they didn't 'give' much at all.
The new ones were pretty flexible compared to the old ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Picked up my Manifolds and man oh man! Check this out!


I didntt have them ultrasonicd but this is good enough! 8) :lol:



With the awesome inspiration that Mike gave me from cleaning my manifolds, I decided to scrub up my valve covers.
This is as clean as I could get them without getting OCD.


Here is where the fun begins on the timing job.
In order to get the AC belt off, you have to unscrew the top bolt a little then unscrew the big bolt on the pulley almost all the way out. Then the pulley slides down and you can get the belt off if you keep unscrewing the top bolt.

Take the pulley bracket off and keep the two nuts with the bolt so you dont lose it.

For the Power steering pulley, you need to find this nut on the back of the pump. Its 14mm on mine, and you just loosen it in order to get the unit to move before unscrewing the adjuster

You can find this from the inner fender well on the driver side.
See it?


Here goes and if you notice you can't get the damn hard line water pipe off without removing the lower pulley - damper, balancer.. whatever you call it.

Stupidest design ever to hide the bolt behind the pulley. :evil:

Check out the amount of dirt i have in the inside of the pulley.
I swear I pulled out about a pound of dirt just to get to the damn crankshaft bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Now here is the "fun" part.
I swear the crank shaft bolt is almost glued on.
I literally had to get my chest against the fender and pull towards me with all my might to get it to break free. I probably had about 2 feet of bar on the socket too!
Took me a few tries and a few times I used a hammer to tap as I was pulling to coax it to move, similar to what an air tool would do.
Vibration helps get things off and it worked eventually.
One thing to note, once I got the crank bolt loose, it just spun free by hand, no need to even use a socket anymore to get it off.
Probably why the previous guy overtightened it.
I've heard other crank shaft bolts are not that easy to get off even after loosening them.

Next get your puller out and get the crank pulley off.

And now you can get to the damn water hard line bolt

I put the valve covers back on and torqued them to spec. I think its something really small like 5 lb ft of torque, almost unmeasureable.... cant remember but i have specs below
I highly advise you to criss cross your tightening pattern before you get to really tightening them all.

Now here is where it gets funny.
I rotated the belt to try to match up the lines with the static marks and they never ever lined up.
I think the guy who did it before me did it literally "blind" which I hear you can do if you are that good
I'm not making this up, Nothing lined up. Its as if he took the old belt off and just put the new one on there wihout even thinking about the static marks at all.
no joke not making this up.

The first trick you need to learn is to take the tensioner off without it going bazerk. Loosen both bolts that hold the tensioner in place but don't remove them.
Unscrew the right side bolt all the way, then let the tensioner 'spring' to the right. Then you can unscrew the left side bolt and remove the tensioner.

Then unbolt the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. I you don't need these anymore but hold onto the pieces and compare to your new ones to make sure they are kosher!

Unscrew the bolts on the water pump starting with the long one. :albino:

I got them all off and the water pump literally fell off, I didn't even need to pry it off.
Wow that was due!

now for the hard part. The old gasket was basically glued on and I had to scrape and scrape and scraaaaape!

Now to get the new one on.

Keep in mind the bolt pattern sequence here is criss cross diagonal.
Start with the two bolts I have installed in the pic first then go perpendicular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now here is where it gets frustrating.
If you read the manual they say get some bull dog clips to hold the timing belt in place.
Well while reaching in the engine area, my elbow hit the driver side cam clip and knocked it off and when I looked back up, the cam shaft was rotated 1/4 turn.
:evil: :evil:
So I got out the old trusty internet and youtube and learned a little bit.
The SOHC is 2:1 from Cam to Crank so You can line that one up pretty easy compared to the DOHC.
See here for the youtube videos
Each of those are super helpful just to get familiar with the process even though there a few difference in the DOHC and the SOHC.
Plus this guy in Oz posted up his write up and his PDF is now on GoogleDocs.
Super helpful.
http://forum.australia4wd.com/index.php ... ater-pump/
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4y1Ln3 ... V6UDQ/edit
And another super helpful thread on when you lose the timing just like I did
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24966&p=175590

here is the post on the DOHC from and earlier thread that was super helpful.
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=16972

Back to the job at hand.
I rotated the cam shaft with a socket and driver until I was sure I got the static marks lined up with the belt lines.
Then to get the timing belt on, start with the Oil sprocket first, then wrap around the tensioner pulley, the passenger camshaft, then under the center pulley, then over the driver side cam shaft, then back down to the oil sprocket. Put the single pulley on last. Trust me that is the easiest way because you don't want to stretch the belt or bend it or pry it with a flat head or otherwise.
In this pic, I am triple checking my timing marks with the rear timing cover and the pulley mark with the line on the belt.


I put some silver paint pen on each mark so they would stand out

Here is the driver side mark all lined up

Here is the oil pump sprocket line mark

The key slot lines up on the right side with this mark

Always put the belt on so you can read the writing left to right while facing the engine. and everything will line up.
All the pics above are TDC marks

Now if you have a hard time locating the oil pump marks, you can rotate the whole belt clockwise and you will find another mark where the key slot lines up.

Go back up to the cam shafts and you will notice a dimple that, well, truthfully I never saw until I got this far in.
This is another check to make sure everything lines up!
Again passenger side first and I put a little silver paint pen spot on them so you can see it easier



Now to put all this back together!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now one more set back.
The oil cooler hard line pipes that Jerry sent me don't line up correctly.
It turns out there are two types of pipes and two types of oil cooler port locations.
Mine are on the side and some are on the top, where this one is expecting to go


See the major difference here I should have noticed this

And you can see how bad the pipe was. Icky

So now back to what I can actually work on while I wait for parts
I put new O-rings on the water pipes and some sealant.

Two important things to notice in this pic: The bad rusty upper end which ended up leaking later on and the 'white' looking sensor port connection
You will need to connect this before putting in the Fat pipe.
I forgot and had to pull the fat pipe back out. You can find the connector on the harness.

I cleaned the thermostat housing surface area and made my own gasket from a roll of gasket material. You can cut your own if you are good with a sharp knife.
Here is the thermostat boss back in place

And YES I cleaned and scrubbed and took a wire brush inside and out to all the metal hard lines that I did re-use, including the Y-pipe in the back!!!
Some of the wiring going back in place


There is one critical thing I missed here. There is a rubber Y-pipe that goes underneath the fat pipe. It will be a pain in the butt to try and plumb later. Trust me I know.
I didn't notice it until later because I have been so on and off the project, I should've remembered. Towards the front of the bock behind the rear timing covers are two small water ports that the rubber y-pipe connects to
Then they come together with a "T" into a single hose and plug into the fat pipes little hard line coming off under the bottom side.
I'll try to get another pic so you understand what I mean but trust me, its there.

Here is a pic of the rubber Y-pipe that I magically got installed without removing the water pipes.
Amazing I know. :drunken: :roll: :blackeye:


Next I got the heater core lines all cleaned up and replumbed.


And just in time for a break!
I got my injectors back from the guy in VA and the test are great.
He tells you which one to put where based on the fuel rail location and their test performance.


And just in time for the water lines job part 2, I got my new hard line oil cooler pipe in the mail from Jerry
Check out the differences in the two pipes.

The bend is totally different and the length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I decided to really get a good scrubbin before I put the top half of the engine back on.
I scraped all the dirt out and even vacuumed it out.
Compare left to right when I was about half way done.

Next up is to take some time cleaning the fuel rail.
I used a Q-tip with some degreaser spray and throttle body cleaner.


This next pic is for anyone like me, who forgets how the damn spring clip goes back on the injector plug.

I put my injectors back on the rail, installed the rail and got the fuel regulator back in. I think it is a torx, I can't recall.
The injectors are a little tricky with the little metal bracket clamps that hold them to the rail.
Plus the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold have plastic shims that fit 'just right' to the intake, so please don't lose them or misalign them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Next up is the oil cooler hard line connection to the engine.
It mounts behind the alternator and this one doesn't look good at all.

I pulled it off and cleaned it up real good and made a fresh gasket for it.


Boom!
Getting closer to being done.
I got all the hard lines on, the fan bracket, the big pulley, and now to the drive belts.
The alternator belt goes on first, then the AC belt then the PS pump belt, in the order.



I pulled out the radiator they gave me and had to fab up the fan shield with some zip ties.
I'm guess the mount locations for the automatic, line up different than the Manual.
Since the size is the same, and the only difference is the hard line for the auto trans cooler lines, I decided to NOT wait for a return and just use it.
I plumbed the auto trans line with a rubber hose back to itself and called it a day.
Also, one big thing I want you all to know, is the difference in dry weight of each, new and old.
The old one weighed like 5x as much as the new one. No joke.


Lastly I got the radiator in and the fan mounted, and now its time for a test drive.

I know its dirty but there are so many new hoses here, it makes up for the dirt!

No leaks as of yet!

First time this truck has seen anything but the garage in months!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And after sitting for about 30 minutes idling, the thermostat opened up and i started to notice a leak.
Waaaay back on the heater core line, it was leaking from the sping clamp on the fat pipe.
I feared the worst and thought it was the y-pipe gaskets or one of the water pipes, and I would have to pull the whole damn intake off all over again... Glad that wasn't the case.
I climbed over the engine like a spider monkey and put a screw tight hose clamp on there and zip tied the old one out of the way.
This is a pic before I put the screw tight hose clamp on there. The upper plenum bracket is loose and out of the way but not totally unbolted.
I 'll tell you now, You have to have a long extension and a universal to get at the two lower bolts that hold the bracket in place from the bottom up. I lay on my back to get at them from the exhaust manifold side underneath you can see them clear as day. Better than ripping your knuckles apart trying to go from the top down by the firewall.


So far so good.
I've driven a little bit not much since I am 6 months late on inspection, and my tag is out of date but I'll go get i inspected soon once my OBD2 starts to have memory again.
:bigsmurf: :bigsmurf:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thought it would be helpful to post up a couple of good pics for the torque ratings and the piping/hosing that you would want to refer to.


Yes that is inches in the lb ft parenthesis. Valve cover bolts don't get much torque at all



And the only thing that isn't clear here in this diagram is the lack of the routing for the fuel regulator to the intake manifold and next to it, the tiny evap intake manifold line that routes behind the throttle body and splits into a "T" and another end goes to the face of the throttle body on a port there.


Here is the diagram of the timing marks and the bull dog paper clips I was talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Trooper_Dan
You certainly don't have to go the length I did.
You could most definitely do this in a weekend.

I decided to do 'everything' since I was in there.

If you just wanted to do the belts and water pump, I'm pretty sure you could do that in a day.
I like to replace stuff that is 'in the way' if you know what i mean.
:bigsmurf:
 

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lorenzo816 said:
Trooper_Dan
You certainly don't have to go the length I did.
You could most definitely do this in a weekend.

I decided to do 'everything' since I was in there.
I have a couple small oil and coolant leaks that I can't quite pin down as to their source.
I'm thinking that those small tubes and hoses under the intake maybe the source.
I, also, prefer to inspect and replace everything that appears worn or hardened with age.
It saves from having to tear things apart again soon :roll:
 

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On the water pipe were you added the o-rings and the blue sealant, did you use two o-rings? A honda passport diagram I saw showed two o-rings there but when I disassembled this section I only remember 1 o-ring being there. I'm under the assumption that 2 need to go there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That is not a bad idea. If you found two o-rings that were thinner than the original thick single O ring, that would be just as good. I've seen similar applications on valve cover O rings on Hondas and Acuras .
But to answer your question, no it is single o-ring at either end. One is obviously bigger and thicker than the other.
 

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That's interesting to me because I remember the same thing...a single fat o-ring. I wanted to match the OEM design so I got my O-rings directly from Honda per the diagram below (see how there are 2 ea part number 122 on diagram). I am in the middle of an engine rebuild now and I guess I'll put those two O-rings in.

 
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