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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As it states, my trooper is running really rough. At idle, there is much more vibration and it feels like it's on the verge of stalling. Between 1000 and 2000 RPMs the engine has real trouble accelerating; it chugs and sputters even, and doesn't make nearly the power it made before. After 2000, the power surges back and she pulls normally. Now the check engine light is on...

I know it has something to do with this:



All of these symptoms happened after that happened.

Any ideas?
 

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Well I would check first all the spark plug wires on both ends and then I would check all vacuum lines. Did water get into the cab? I would check for mostiure in the ends of all plug wires and coil connections. Then see if you got fuel in your fuel lines or fuel filter. Have you tried new gas in the truck, do you have any check engine codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, it's throwing a code, but I don't have a code reader so I have no idea what it is.

I'm gonna clean the MAF, I'm pretty sure that's what it is

But if it's not, it's an excuse for new spark plugs! lol

PS what should I be looking for on the spark plug wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh lol. It's all dry by now
 

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check in the connections if you got water in them it could still be wet and that will cause a miss fire and a code. Yes MAF could be it but if you got mud past your Air filter to the MAF thats not good man.
 

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88bronzetrooper said:
check in the connections if you got water in them it could still be wet and that will cause a miss fire and a code. Yes MAF could be it but if you got mud past your Air filter to the MAF thats not good man.
Agreed. But I'm pretty sure that nothing has gotten into the engine because hes still getting good power past 2k.

If I were you I would clean the MAF and let everything dry out for a day, take out all the sparks and just let it sit for a while.
My bet is on a wet spark :D

btw badass photo!
 

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Could be water in the tubes under the coil packs...that is where a spark would jump also, not before the coil packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So yesterday I cleaned out what I could...

Took off the MAF and cleaned it with MAF spray (duh)...and they were pretty damn dirty!

While I did that (in between de-rusting the fenderwells of my pop's suburban) I took off the coil packs and let them dry out. One problem, though, is that I couldn't get the rear two packs off (right by the firewall) numbers 1 & 6 or something. So I left those ones on, but does anyone have any suggestions for removing stuck coil packs?

On the 4 I took off I sprayed this "Wire Dry" stuff from CRC and followed with Di-Electric grease on the coil pack boots, and the ignition wires on all 6 packs.

Then I took it for a spin, and WOW!!! What a difference! She makes so much more power now! And all the previous problems are gone too

I'm pretty sure all of the new power made was prob from the MAF cleaner, but I'm sure the coil drying/oiling helped too

Next on the list is spark plugs, they're looking pretty rough from what I could see
One spark hole (that's the technical term ;) ) was filled with orangey, rust-looking stuff, which I'm sure is not good

But for now she's running strong and the check engine light went away.

Thanks for the help!
 

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You should probly get a couple new boots just incase you have to destroy the back two ...they pop off the coils if you spin and twist... A couple of my boots where literally glued to the original spark plugs... The nasty film in the pocket could be moisture and crossfire dust... I just changed my plugs and a couple had the dust to... And they where slightly loose... I made double sure to get them snugly tightened this time.... Just make sure your not eatin cheesie poofs while torquing ya might slipp.... Swede have you done plugs yet in the late model stuff ??
 

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Before you remove the spark plugs, it'd probably be a good idea to give the plug recesses a real good blast of cleaner & follow with compressed air if you have it, to get all that crud out, and keep it out of the cylinders.........ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lol I'll be sure to put the cheesy poofs down first!
Yeah I guess I'll have to get new boots, I originally thought I would have to get new coil packs, but now I see they're on rockauto for like $2 yay!

Ed, how do you propose I get the cleaning fluid out of the piston cylinders? Paper towel?

Edit to say I'm prob gonna do a piston soak too, so that may clean it, but i may do that too
 

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Once you pull the spark plug boots, before removing the spark plugs, spray the area with carb cleaner etc, the strong spray action should loosen up the crud and blow it out of the hole. The spray will evaporate and any loose chunks that could fall in the cylinders upon removal of spark plugs, should be gone. If you have a compressed air supply, hit the holes first with the solvent then a blast of clean air, it'll really clean out those recesses!!!

HTH.........ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Awesome dude thanks!

PS this is for anyone, if I replace the boot on the piston cylinder with all the crap in it, will it help to seal better so it won't fill with crap again?
 

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streetersam said:
PS this is for anyone, if I replace the boot on the piston cylinder with all the crap in it, will it help to seal better so it won't fill with crap again?
Do you mean installing new wires, with boots that actually seal?
I'm trying to visualize how your later engine is sealed.
 

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streetersam said:
All of these symptoms happened after that happened.

Any ideas?
Exposures a little off, but otherwise I see no problem.
 

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streetersam said:
Awesome dude thanks!

PS this is for anyone, if I replace the boot on the piston cylinder with all the crap in it, will it help to seal better so it won't fill with crap again?
Nothing chunky can really get in there.. Liquid can possibly get in there... It's kinda like wheel bearing seals. When you drive through water (generally submerged) the warm hub/engine can cool slightly and rapidly and sometimes pull a bit of a vacuum and that gets water into the area... I refrain from pressure washing engines with over head spark plugs and coil packs... I bit of dielectric grease around the top would aid the sealing of the rubber boot to the valve cover...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks dude! Good idea...
I gotta get on this soon...
 

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bradzuzu said:
You should probly get a couple new boots just incase you have to destroy the back two ...they pop off the coils if you spin and twist... A couple of my boots where literally glued to the original spark plugs... The nasty film in the pocket could be moisture and crossfire dust... I just changed my plugs and a couple had the dust to... And they where slightly loose... I made double sure to get them snugly tightened this time.... Just make sure your not eatin cheesie poofs while torquing ya might slipp.... Swede have you done plugs yet in the late model stuff ??
Not lately. But I used to have a 99 Trooper, changed the plugs on that a couple of times. I bought a spark plug boot removal tool. http://www.wayfair.com/Lisle-Spark-Plug ... 49-IJO1880

I also put dielectric grease on the inside of the boot so they came off easier next time.
 

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To be prepared, where can I pick up the necessary spark plug boots? I saw a bad review for a set of Denso boots. Said all were shorter than the OEM boots and had a spring insert vs. a solid metal insert. What is everyone's experience with the boots? Only need to replace if they get damaged during removal? Also, any opinion on Denso vs. NGK plugs? Thanks.
 
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