[jim10_01]

I did a search and couldn't find anything quite like my problem. I've got a 95 MU with a 5 speed and a 3.2 TD. What's happening is the whole truck starts shaking when I'm acclerating. The funny thing is it only seems to do it from 1500-2500rpm in second and third gear. It stops when I push in the clutch. Also, maybe unrelated, I can hear a sorta quiet grinding noise when I let off the gas and let coast in gear. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Jim

Also forgot to mention, I flipped and spaced the balljoints and cranked up the T-Bars as well as an add-a-leaf and longer shackels as soon as I bought it a couple of months ago. And put on Aisin manual hubs on last week. I don't know if any of this matters just trying to give you guys all the info I can.

 

[Starchild]

Shaking or shuddering on take-off is many times a symptom of a bad carrier bearing. We have that issue with the Rodeos after lifting. I'm not even sure if your truck has one, but it's a thought. The easy fix is to have a single peice driveshaft made which removes the bearing completely. It's usually cheaper than replacing the bearing.

HIH
Andre

 

[badercarma]

Check to see if your carrier bearing has any play, right now I'm having the same problem because my cross member that holds the carrier bearing broke off and the driveshaft is rubbing.

 

[bigpoppax2]

Yeah just take your old driveshaft off and take it to a shop that will re-tube it with DOM tubing. You can tell them to make it just a hair longer than stock to account for the lift.

 

[jim10_01]

Thanks guys, I fixed the shaking. My U-Joints were cracked and broken and flopping around at the front of the driveshaft. I don't know about Amigos but the MU doesn't have a two piece d-shaft. Thanks again for answering the newbie questions without making us feel stupid.

Jim

 

[Starchild]

Glad you got it fixed. Now I've got the driveshaft wobble. caused by another 1" of lift in the rear. I should have my new one peice shaft by next week.

Andre

 

[Russell89]

will a new leaf spring/ shackle and t-bar adjustment lift cause me to need a new driveshaft? is this a pricey problem?

 

[bigpoppax2]

What is happening here to cuase the vibrations is the center bearing is worn on your two piece driveshaft. When it's at the stock height it's not very noticable. Once lifted the two piece driveshaft is put into a steeper angle right at the center bearing.

This causes any play in the center bearing to be maginfied hence the vibrations. What really is worn is the rubber donut not the actual bearing in 99% of the cases. The problem is you can't buy just the donut, (unless something has changed) you have to buy the whole bearing as a unit. Which costs about as much as retubing your two piece to a one piece.

By doing a one piece you eliminate a u-joint, and a center bearing. This is a good thing in my book. I like less parts.

So yes if you lift your Rodeo in all likelyhood you will need to modify your driveshaft, or another fix for this is to install 4 degree shims in your spring packs. But I like the one piece shaft better.

Joe

 

[Starchild]

Rodeoholic,
I just droped off my driveshaft at the shop today. I was quoted $75 labor + $8-10/ ft of tube. That was reusing my stock flanges and slip yoke. I'm expecting $125, but I'll let you know for sure tomorrow. I've replaced the carrier bearing before and it was significantly more. Finding the right shop is key. This is a driveshaft specialist. After telling him what I needed, we went over the specs and it'll be ready tomorrow. I'll post back with the results.

Andre

 

[Russell89]

thanks starchild. also, is this something that i will have to do right after i get the lift or is it ok to leave it for a month or so just for the funds to be resupplied? if i dont do it right away, what are the potential problems?