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1999 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After dealing with one half of my AC controls being burnt out, and swapping junkyard bulbs proved to be ineffective... most of them too have burnt out bulbs. I bought some replacement bulbs off of Amazon and set to replacing them. Though I've had this issue before, and I've yet to see a full process on the correct bulbs and the way to replace them - I figure this could be helpful to those who haven't looked too hard or have issues with their AC controls being burnt out as well.

Essentially to get started, purchase a set of bulbs. The backlighting for the controls are either a type 74/e74 bulb. The e74 are slimmer than the 74 size. I've purchased both, an LED 74 set, and an incandescent e74 set from Amazon. I can't guarantee that the links I share here will work in the future but these are the sizes you'll want to look for.

E74 Incandescent Bulbs
74 LED Bulbs

I could not find E74 size LED bulbs, so if you're cautious and want to avoid potential damage as some people I've seen hypothesize about the 74 Size LEDs, go with the E74 Incandescent, as those are the correct bulbs to use.

Anyways, getting on the with the installation. You'll need to remove the driver side lower dash, and gauge hood. There's one screw in the foot well on the right, and two behind the hood release. If you've got the 'leg warmer' vent, pull the bottom of the lower dash forward, and then the top. If equipped, disconnect your power window switch and security light thing from the left side of the panel.

Gauge hood is held on with 5 screws. 1 on the right of the column, 2 on the left, and 2 above the column directly in front of the gauge cluster. Pull towards you gently once you unscrewed all five. Disconnect your clock, rear wiper, rear washer, rear defrost, hazard switch, and (if equipped) Cruise Control, 4WD, Fog lamp switches. There is a dimmer directly behind your turn signal that you will need to carefully remove the connector from, as there is little slack in the harness, and you're right against the brittle gauge cluster cover. Just go slow and carefully remove the hood once done.

There are four screws holding your AC panel to the dash, remove them to give yourself more space to finesse the bulb connectors out. You'll be able to gently pull the unit towards you by about an inch or two. No need to disconnect the cables and connectors for the switches if all you have to do is change the backlight bulbs.
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There are two backlight bulbs, accessible from above the controls seen here with the red wires (this one is above the temperature knob)
The other is above the direction control knob. Twist the knobs to remove them (they only twist one way, clockwise when looking from the driver seat, counter clockwise if you look from the front of the vehicle)
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The bulbs remove by pulling them straight out of the connector/holder. The blue rubber piece is only for incandescent bulbs, as it filters out the warmer light to make the backlight be more cool/white rather than warm/orangish. Keep it or remove it - up to you.
Here's the burnt bulb... And the LED/old bulb side-by-side.
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I tested both the E74 and 74 LED bulbs. Light output on the 74 was more favorable (though it does have a hot spot, I don't mind) As well as the rubber cover being torn on one of my bulbs, I opted to go for the cooler white instead of the warm light.
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I'll add a photo of it a night to show the light output - but essentially reverse order to reinstall everything. Careful when you install the AC screws, I dropped one behind the dash. Rather than disassemble my center console and dash, I opted for one of my many extra screws from junkyard Rodeos I've come across.
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I have a 995 Isuzu Rodeo, AT, V-6, 2-WD. At the point when you turn the way to "ON" the scramble lights and four way flashers begin squinting with a perceptible clicking from the left half of the scramble, and will flicker multiple times then quit. Assuming you proceed to begin, and the motor turns over, the lights will do likewise and quit. The truck drives fine after that. I tracked down the wellspring of the clicking, a black box (what else?) situated over the wire board. This crate has a ton of wires going to it yet I can't find it in any book or Web source. I have the one-wire analytic connection, the orange one and have no codes. Might this be a mistake at any point code. Much appreciated

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