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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I was just pondering about a SAS conversion to my 1988 Trooper. I haven't measured, but has anyone used the front axle and suspension system from a 1st generation Ford Bronco for a SAS conversion? :?:
 

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Im using bronco radius arms on my SAS. Im not using a bronco axle however as theyre pretty narrow. Im using a fullsize chevy axle with the long tube narrowed to a wagoneer shaft. Ill be using ford wedges on the axle and extended bronco radius arms with a johnny joint on the frame side.

This setup has its flaws for offroad if you dont extend the arms how ever. The nice thing about the radius arms is theyre very simple to get mounted on the truck and theres no worries about squeezing in an upper link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oops! Looking at pictures of the Bronco axle shows that the differential is on the driver's side vs. the Trooper's passenger side. Oh well. :(
I really like the idea of modifying the radius rods, and utilizing the Wagoneer axle for the shortened side. Thanks for the help.
 

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Yea all Fords are drivers side diff. Jeep and Chevy were the only domestics to have passenger side diff and then they switched to the left. Makes no sense to me since the driver and the fuel tank are already on the left and then they go an throw the transfer case drop and diff on the left. I would really like to weight a truck full of fuel and a driver and see what it looks like on the scales. The left must be 500lbs heavier with a driver!
 

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The radius arm setup is a good idea !!! It was a challenge to stuff my upper link arms in my amigo.
It turned out good but I could get more up travel if I didn't have the link mounts in the way. It's all a give and take.
 

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Enemigo said:
Aren't our trucks pretty narrow as well though? What about Land Rover front axles for SAS? They seem to be similar in size.
61 or 63 inch WMS to WMS is not super narrow.

Early toyotas were 56in and then 59 in later on. I believe early bronco are 58.

Our trucks generally get their narrow feeling from the deep offset on the wheels. They were kind of ahead of their time with the deep offset, wide wheel mounting width that became popular with trucks around the mid 90s.
 

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The closest you will get to the right width with the proper 6-bolt wheel pattern is a straight axle Toyota at 55-1/2" or a '74-'79 Wagoneer (NOT the 2-dr Cherokee) at 61" to 61-1/2". Your Trooper is 58".
 
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betterthanyou said:
Yea all Fords are drivers side diff. Jeep and Chevy were the only domestics to have passenger side diff and then they switched to the left. Makes no sense to me since the driver and the fuel tank are already on the left and then they go an throw the transfer case drop and diff on the left. I would really like to weight a truck full of fuel and a driver and see what it looks like on the scales. The left must be 500lbs heavier with a driver!
Dodge also used a passenger side diff up till the nineties.
 

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Yea I meant that too when I said Jeep but guess Dodge was separate back in the early 80's because Jeep belonged to AMC
 

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It's all preference or what you want to challenge yourself with on your particular project, really.
I was more than satisfied with leafs on my 91 amigo, and it matched the rear setup. In turn I matched my 2000 amigo with the rear suspension. An argument can be the least amount of movable parts to wear out.... Springs have but two ends. The radius arm set up has one per, but the degree bushing can wear out in time. I used all factory parts/pieces in my four link thinking it should last a fairly long time. Isuzu designed some good stuff !!! Another thing to factor in is joint/bushing stiffnes and allocated vibration. Fatigue will not only wear the bushings but cause in time stress cracks, and some road vibration/noise transfer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
bradzuzu said:
It's all preference or what you want to challenge yourself with on your particular project, really.
I was more than satisfied with leafs on my 91 amigo, and it matched the rear setup. In turn I matched my 2000 amigo with the rear suspension. An argument can be the least amount of movable parts to wear out.... Springs have but two ends. The radius arm set up has one per, but the degree bushing can wear out in time. I used all factory parts/pieces in my four link thinking it should last a fairly long time. Isuzu designed some good stuff !!! Another thing to factor in is joint/bushing stiffnes and allocated vibration. Fatigue will not only wear the bushings but cause in time stress cracks, and some road vibration/noise transfer.
Great pics in your posts. Thanks. I think I'm starting to lean back to the leaf spring conversion.
 

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oldestisuzuist said:
The closest you will get to the right width with the proper 6-bolt wheel pattern is a straight axle Toyota at 55-1/2" or a '74-'79 Wagoneer (NOT the 2-dr Cherokee) at 61" to 61-1/2". Your Trooper is 58".
Ive got an FJ60 front axle thats all built up already. Its a passengers side drop and 58" in width. Im thinking this would make a good candidate for a swap, right?
 

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I used an 84-85 front toy axle in my 91 with the stock rear isuzu 12 bolt. I think the amigo's a narrower than the rodeo's... I think 2-1/2-3"s difference. My 00 amigo has the wagoneer 44, now that it's said and done I think 1/4" wheel spacers would make it perfect !!! But you can't really tell its off the way it is.
 

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'88-'91 Troopers & pickups are 58" WMS to WMS, Amigos & Rodeos same vintage should be the same. Toyota fronts are 55-1/2", '74-'79 Wagoneer narrow Dana 44s are 61" to 61-1/2", same as 2nd gen Isuzu's. 3rd gen Isuzu's are at least 63".
 
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