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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know if there is any way to completely remove the VSV assembly from my Rodeo. Its a ton of money to replace and its totally broke. Cleaning it will do nothing. The case had a ton of metal in it from parts grinding. HAHA I really dont care about the shift on the fly aspect. Just want to remove it entirely. Any way for this to be done? Only way I can think of doing it is to weld the slip ring gear in it 4wd location. Then all I would hae to do is add manual locking hubs right?
 

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On my phone so quick answer is:
Easy put manual hubs on it first(cv and boot wear etc will be more pronounced)
Then remove actuator
Remove the allen wrench plug
Find a longer bolt same pitch etc as plug
Sharpen bolt end some
Move shift fork so the roll pin lines up with the threaded hole
Tighten longer sharpened bolt so tip goes into rollpin hole(just alittle not much) and tighten bolt(don't crack housing
Slide collar over to engage axle and replace "solid" fork/actuator back in place
Done,this will allow 2wd lowrange(hubs unlocked) and if you lock hubs you still have SOTF
Any questions just ask
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So basically you are making it so the actuater fork cannot move anymore? Im a little confused by that part. With vacuum lines still attached isn't it still able to move?
 

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I'm not sure why you want to remove anything. It sounds to me like you don't care if 4wd works or not. Just don't use it. Or, you could probably get a set of VSV valves for cheap at a wrecking yard instead of buying new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I want to be able to use my 4wd. I dont know where you got the idea that I didnt want to use it. The shift fork in the actuator is to worn to use anymore. Previous owners obviously didnt take car of anything. So, when engaging 4wd it works a few times. the the actuator fork slips off over the lip of the collar ring. In doing this it forces the collar ring into an exaggerated position causing the ring to ware groves into the VSV assembly case. My question was trying to find a way to lock it into 4wd by means of welding the collar ring into place, replacing hubs with manual locking hubs, and fabricating a block off plate for the vsv actuator since it is serving no purpose there whatsoever. I just dont see the point of having a piece of equipment bolted to the axle tube that protrudes outward giving a place for a rock to break it off possible causing more damage that could have bee prevented. Please dont take this the wrong way. I in no way mean any dissrespect. Just trying to elaborate a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No wrecking yards in the area have them available or want to sell me the entire front end unfortunatly. And then buying new cost 180 for the vsv case and another 380 for the actuator. Id just rather weld it up for free and put manual locking hubs on that I already have. Ive just never had anything to do with this kind of setup and was looking for advice as to if it was possible. what vacuum lines to block off, if there was going to be any issues involving the transfer case SOTF motor or anything like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was able to find a quick write up on 4x4wire describing exactly what you were talking about. Very helpful information for the future if I ever happen to run accross it again. Thank you for helping me with it. Its just not gonna work on my current setup.
 

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You confused me by calling the actuator the VSV assembly. I was thinking the Vacuum Switching Valves located on the firewall. I'd be willing to bet someone here could find a good used actuator for cheap and ship it to you. Or, you can do the thing Bansil said which is basically leaving the actuator in place but locking it in the engaged position. However, your description of the problem makes it sound like this wouldn't be a viable option since you say the fork is not holding the sleeve properly. I think the best thing is for us to find you a replacement actuator. Someone should have an extra somewhere.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hear ya catfuzz. I still can't believe what the cost of a brand new one is. Insane to me hat that thing is 380 new. Im still gonna try and dig something up locally to try and support local economy. But in the event that I can't. I would be up for other options. Im finding things left and right that are needing replaced. But I do see potential in this little rig. Any advice is good to have. Thank you catfuzz. Always good to get advice from someone on here that's been around the block a few times.
 

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What year are you working on anyway? It will be either vacuum or electric depending on the year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
1997. Very much vacuum with that mess of tubing down there Hahaha. JLEMOND told me that if I do weld it and put manual hubs on that I might have to connect some wires together from the sending unit so the transfer case shifter know the front end is locked together.
 

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I'm showing Spaldings has one for $37.00 here in Spokane. Check http://www.car-part.com and search for an "axle actuator (4wd)" and anything from 97-99 should work. Put in your zip code to find results near you. EDIT shows two at Bud's auto wrecking in Portland. They didn't post a price though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks man. That site will be a big help. I will check it out when I get home from work. Who knows... maybe something will turn up here close to me. If not. That's ok at least it gives me a reason to buy a welder. Hahaha
 

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speaking of welding,bigpoppa took a steel plate,drilled 4 holes in it,cut the fork off and welded to the plate and reinstalled.
Basically what I was talking about by making fork permenant.
This bolt trick is great to know about when on the trail and the actuator breaks or stops working
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thats all really good info to have. Man this is why I like forums. If you don't know how to fix it or what's going on with it chances are someone on here does.
 
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