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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys.. my rodeo has been having an overheating problem.. i cant figure it out neither can the shop.. ive replace the following in the past 3 weeks.. nothing helps
fan clutch
radiator
thermo
coolent flush
belts...
i left the water pump alone cuz i know it works. this overheating problem was intermittent but now is an everyday thing. the temp will climb quick and wen i turn it off the over flow is ussualy bubbling and smells kinda like gas but its hard to tell if thats what it really is... while overheating if you rev it up it will drop the temp(sometimes). the oil was just changed and when i look at it looks just likeoil no gas or coolent mixed in.. the shop told me these problems could be the head gasket but they could not tell for sure... apparently thats a really expensive job and i dont have that $ nor wil i if i cant get to work.. really sux cuz i have put alot of $ into it and im afraid it may be dying;(... has this happend to any of you or could some 1 at least say its the head? if it is? thanks:)
 

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Usually, if it's a head gasket problem that's bad enough to overheat, you'll be pouring coolant out the tailpipe, seeing it in the oil, and have a terrible miss.

Let me ask...is it mostly city driving or highway? And what's the temperature gauge doing when you're moving faster vs. slower, uphill, downhill, etc.

Also, when you have your motor running, can you see in the radiator and tell if coolant is flowing like it should be?

Taking into consideration the work you've already had done, there are only two things I can think of that would cause what you're describing, and both are a little unlikely, though still possible.

First: Is there a fan shroud in place and in good repair? If you don't have a shroud, and do alot of low-speed driving, your vehicle will most likely overheat.

Second: It's possible that your water pump impeller is so rusted and degraded that it's unable to move enough coolant flow to cool your engine properly. I've actually seen this recently in a GM motor a friend of mine was working on. There was nothing but a flat, rusted piece of metal left where the impeller used to be. Was there a great deal of rust in the coolant system when you had it flushed?

Sorry I couldn't think of anything else.

P.S.
ANY shop can diagnose a head gasket (or at least a head problem), all they need to do is a compression test. For that matter, you could spend $20 on a compression tester and do it yourself. If they tell you they can't, you might need to find another mechanic.
 

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As said above....I would have it pressure tested, that'll narrow down whether it's a headgasket or not....we have no way of knowing, if the shop can't answer that question, then you need a different shop.

Also, was the replacement radiator new or used? AND....what temp of thermostat did you install?

Also, are you sure you got all the air out of the system?

I would not be continuing to drive it, every time it gets close to hot, it's that much more likely to blow the gasket. These are all aluminum engines, they do not do well getting hot.

Sounds like it's been overheating for 3wks??....hope you haven't taken it offroad in that state, or yes, the headgasket could very well be blown. You can generally overheat them once, *maybe* twice, but that's it, anything more then that you're on pure luck or not.
 

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I am new here and not very well in english,...
Your problem looks like my car trouble(2500Di diesel+turbo CT26-7M),
a)If Temperature is intermittent and abnormal heat up
b)If have bubble in the radiator.
if you got a)+b), sure! headgasket leak,break, die and if lucky may be other gasket leaks of Engine cover.

Other case
if Temperature climb and heatup after speed up and become down after slow speed,
the root cause may be
- improper of degre of ignition that mean fuel/gasoline is supplied+igniting before head/cylinder going to end-up.
- water Thermostat valve is not opened.
Action; test fuel pump and correct degree of ignition and replace new thermostat valve.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys for ur info.
in answer to your questions i do both city an highway driving. We dont have any hills where i live. The problem is intermittent but ussualy its heats up just below red the instantly drops to normal. other times its hot no matter the speed. I dont have a shroud but it has not had the issue till about nov and i got it in oct. When checking the radiator am i lookin for it to go right to left? I dont wanna overfill it but i think there is air i feel it in the hoses idk how to get it out. First car so i dont know alot. My thermo is duralast 170 degree. The radiator is brand new. wen changing coolent i dont know if it was rust but there was black weird stuff kinda looked like pepper.. was really murky. The problem occured a couple a months ago but after those repairs overheatin is alot more often.
Again thanks alot for the help greatly appreciated
 

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Hi, FOR3V3RINF3RNO
""The problem is intermittent but ussualy its heats up just below red the instantly drops to normal""
This problem is the same my car. I disassembled all engines and found that all Head-Cylinder small crack , then I repalced all part and again assembled..............good no any heatup.

Good luck
 

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You NEED to get a fan shroud in that engine.....no exceptions.

What's happening is it's not able to draw enough air right where it needs it; the warmer it gets outside or the more driving you do the bigger this is going to be an issue. You are changing the design of what it needs to stay in spec.

As to the previous black/murky stuff in the radiator, makes me wonder if someone had dumped in *stop leak* products.

To get the air out of the system, park the truck (cold) slightly nose up, pull off the radiator cap and start the truck. Let the truck get to normal operating temp with the cap OFF, the system should push air out on it's own, as it's pushing air out, keep topping off the radiator with the correct 50/50 antifreeze.

The fact your temp gauge is going from hot and instantly back down to normal tells me there's air in the system; could be do to just that - extra air, or could be do to a bad headgasket.

For now, do as I said, park the truck nose up and see if you can get any air out, and get a FAN SHROUD installed asap!

Also...get yourself a compression test done, you may or may not have a headgasket issue, but you need to find out soon or you will have one.
 

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Air in the system, or a brand new thermostat that happens to be sticky, but most likely the air bubble is the right guess here.

Weird black stuff that looked like pepper was probably rust...or actually pepper (people used to use black pepper to stop a leak temporarily).

And like Ramblin' said...get a SHROUD on that thing, or it will never cool properly, especially in slow moving traffic.
 

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Hi,
As Ramblin Fever said" we must make sure that we get all the air out of cooling system" It is very very very importnace for system!!!!!

For my engine after re-assembled all parts/components, I started and warmed engine around 1/2hrs in order to get all the air and bubble out of system till water full at radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok so i tryed to get the air outta there but the radiator level kept going up and down with out me adding anything then it instantly shot out of it.. If this was a head problem would it be this inconsistant?? drove it around for about an hour with no issues.. then it started. This morning went to get gas about 2 miles away it was fine but on the way home it started having issues.. while temp climbing ive noticed this
bubbles in over flow and thick white smoke that smells sorta like gas
the exsuast when you listen to it you can hear someting that almost sound like a faint popping sound speeding up the air coming out.. its not affecting the rpms though. What ever the prblem is its instant... Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well idk exatly were the head is but i think its at the top of the motor under the isuzu metal piece? I think. well guess what? that thing is bubbling an i see coolent coming out:( I bought a truck that some on temporarily sealed the head that why the coolent that i flushed was really dirty... now i need to decide what to do.. i LOVE it alot.. and dont wanna sell it but cant really afford a new motor or car... sigh... Again thanks for all the help and ideas guys:)
 

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Ouch, sounds like head gasket, hopefully not cracked head. Get yourself a pressure tester for the cooling system and you can pressurize it without the engine running, will be real easy to tell where the coolant leak is coming from.
Also, and unfortunately yes, it sounds an aweful lot like someone put some kind of stop-leak in the cooling system as a temporary fix. The entire cooling system should be flushed after you repair whatever is leaking.
 

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STOP driving it....I understand it's probably your only vehicle, but I can guarantee you the headgaskets are cracked now, they may not have been in the beginning though. You have been driving it for 3wks like this.

You can most likely count on a cracked block as well, sounds like it's getting hot on you everyday.

I had this same issue with my late toyota truck, it was my actual work truck - not just getting to work, but my actual work construction truck......I drove it for only a week with mild overheating intermittent condition, by the end of the week, the entire block drank all the coolant, totally cracked, nothing left to save.

I'd start looking for an engine replacement from a junk-yard for yours...a new one's not worth putting in.
 

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Ramblin Fever said:
As said above....I would have it pressure tested, that'll narrow down whether it's a headgasket or not....we have no way of knowing, if the shop can't answer that question, then you need a different shop.
.
Quoted for truth. :drunken:
 

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If you want to check sure for cracked gasket/head/sleeve/piston,.you can check the pressure from radiator while starting .
the pressure should not more than 1.1bar or 1.3bar of Cap spec. If water are push out....there are something pressure leak from engine in to cooling system.

Easy to check, when engine cool (in the morning) ,not start engine , open the Cap of radiator, if have air out...!!feeeezzzzzz!!...sure!

Good luck
 

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FOR3V3RINF3RNO said:
idk what is the cheapest but i think i am going to have to put some fix a leak in there till i can save up enough for one of my options...
If you do, then bypass the heater core, or you are going to be replacing that, as well.
 

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When you add stop leak....it stops up everything. Waterpump, heatercore, radiator, etc.

I feel for you....that's the bad thing about buying used.

I never ever buy a used vehicle without a compression test and a thorough mechanics inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I unfortunately am learning a very hard and expensive lesson. At the time i bought it i really didnt know a whloe lot about cars or what to check for. it drove great. but i did not know the issue existed nor that there was a way to fix it and make it good to sell... I wish i knew what i know now the signs were obvious.
A non working heater in az is unheard of but no 1 checks them cuz they always work cuz we hardly use em! Miss matched engine parts from other rodeos... and the coolent that was so dirty and chunky it could not even be called coolent... Im going to try my best to save this truck i really love it and after all the previous owners misstreatment i think it deservs it... itl be great truck when its 100% again.
 
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