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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had problems with leaking axle seals on my 01 Rodeo w/disc. The dealer seems to enjoy putting new seals in (and bearings once) but now that the drivetrain warrenty has expired I'm looking at doing this myself.
My question is this - the Haynes manual describes a axle removal process for the AMIGO that seems consistant with what I've seen posted on this site. In other words it describes removing the axle without removing the differential cover. Then you have to press the bearing off the axle.
The Haynes manual then describes the procedure for removing the axle on a Rodeo. In this case it says you have to remove the differential cover so you can remove a lock screw in order to remove the axle. It goes on to say that seal and axle have to be removed with a puller from the axle housing.

Which is right for my vehicle?
 

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This is most likely what your setup is. The stack up of the wheel tin & retainer followed by the seal bearing and retainer colar and snap ring.... There is a bearing race/cone in the housing. This is a Dana 44 model.
The isuzu rearend has a sealed bearing that pulls out with the axle hub/caliper mount assembly...
If your new bearing comes with the colar you can cut that old colar off with a chisel and the bearing if your very carefull...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK that helps.
I guess it's necessary to pull the bearing race out of the housing. How do you do that?
Is it better to remove the bearing/collar from the axle with a chisel/dremel tool or press it off somehow with a hydraulic press?
 

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You can press it but it's hard to set up the blocks and stuff. Depending where you live Jlemond has a shop and does that stuff. I do to but live in Washington, probly far away from you.
The race is a loose fit and should slide out, They don't have a very tight fit. A drumal will work to carefully cut that stuff loose. The chisel just finishes off cracking it so it expands and can slide off.
Get your parts kit and see what all comes with it and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm stuck. Those four studs in the backing plate will not come out of the yoke on the axle housing. I'm worried I'm missing something. Does this axle shaft have to be unclipped or something at the differential?
 

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You need to get the nuts off. Your fighting the resistance of the seal being stuck in the axle housing. If you have a slide hammer that will work wonders. If you have to put the tire on with a couple nuts and kick it from the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks so much!
I had the nuts partially on because at one point I was tapping on the studs from the inside trying to drive the thing out. I didn't want to ruin the threads.
I can get a slide hammer on it but I was afraid to start banging on the axle without knowing what was preventing the axle from sliding out.
 

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Ya once it's out you'll see it... That will be the only thing left in there. It also will loose/leek less oil if you jack up the one side so the axle housing is tilted. I had to pop real hard on the last one I worked on for my buddy's rig. He ended up having a bent axle and housing, it was messed up big time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've got a big slide hammer on the axle and I still can't get it to budge. It looks like the stud on lower left as I face the car is stuck. I warmed the area up with a Oxy/Acet torch and still no luck.
 

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It might be in a bind ... Push it back in and try the slide hammer down low if you can. Put the nut back on that stud and see if you can tap it out some. Another thing you can do is put a screw driver in that plate down low and pop back in on the assembly. That will force the bottom out and hopefully loosen that stud. Reverse psychology lol
 

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Thanks! Got it. Here comes the next series of dumb questions
It looks like the bearing race has moved out towards the outside of the axle, either that or the last guy didn't install it right. Shouldn't it go all the way to the back of that lip? Any suggestions for getting it out?

The new bearing looks like a sealed unit. the number is RW-131-R from National. That doesn't seem right. Shouldn't it have a separate race?
race.jpg

bearing.jpg
 

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You should be able to slide it out, it looks like it moved out some already. Slide hammer should persuade it the rest of the way. That bearing looks like it for an isuzu 12 bolt rearend. You can double check and see if they did an update. That would be a better set up !!! Call and run the part number and see what it's for would be the quickest way to find out...Don't ever feel like your asking a stupid question either !!! Make sure to clean that all up as best as you can before assembly...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The new bearing isn't a taper bearing its a "Cylindrical" bearing. It comes with a note about replacing the OEM/Taper bearings with this style to be sure and use all the same parts etc, etc. The parts counter guy really worked hard to cross reference the bearing and it seems to check out. The OD, ID and thickness is the same. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Now that's cool !!! I would much rather have that setup !!! It's a sealed bearing, in turn means it's better suited for off roading. Way less of a chance at getting contaminated and leaking axle oil...
Sweet !!!
 

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I'm about to tackle this job and reading this makes me feel much better about doing the job. my part number is the same and wondered the same if it was right. I did my 94 rodeo and it was more work getting someone to take the old bearing off and press the new one on than it was taking it apart and reassembling it. wish me luck. I'm doing both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I used a Dremmel tool to cut through the old bearing. I used a press with a pipe just bigger than the dia of the axle to press the new one on. Good luck!
 
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